1/6 SS Silverado first scaler lots of pic

[SSMuddHauller69]

Thanks guys did a little mud test last weekend found out why they called them mudd slingers they sure due sling the mudd.





Also found out im going to have to upgrade slipper for trans because the slingers maybe a little to much. Im going to try the robinson upgrade for the maxx trans rather than the little friction pegs.

I might have to upgrade the motors to maybe lathes but I don't know how they would work with the stock emaxx ESC. because they did bogg a bit going threw thick mud. I might lower gearing first to 6 / 72 maybe instead of 8 / 72 pinions because its cheaper than motors.

As for the Ofna diff lock it's just a realy heavy weight diff oil that I added to my upgraded X diffs not a spool or locker. Its just realy thick stuff don't remember the part number just picked it up at my LHS, it came in a small white container because I still wanted some slip if it got in a bind.

Tires= Hotbodies 7" tall 4" wide //// Slingers 7 1/2" tall 3 1/2" wide.

As for weight lite went out the window when I decided on full custom frame and the body. The body itself sits at about 5 lbs with all the batteries for the lights and the working tilt bed. Total 6 on the truck with body on, 3 total with body off.

Total I would say 20lbs with Hotbodies tires and 25lbs with the Slingers give or take anoher 2 or 3 lbs.

[BeeRC]

Thanks for answering the questions I had. I appreciate that.

My rig sits at about 23 pounds RTR with the Kongs, about the same as yours.

Try checking with Dan at Kershaw engineering....he can help you with your motor, esc and gearing concerns.

You referred to your X-Factor diffs as "upgraded". What upgrades have you done to them?

[sabo_traxxas]

whered you pick up that body!? thats sweet man. let me know where you picked that bad dude up and how much it was

[SSMuddHauller69]

No prob as for the diffs the are original X 1 axles and you couldnt fill them

with diff oil without it leaking out of the axles, so I upgraded to the X 2

diffs in my X 1 axle housing so I could run the Ofna diff lock. I dont have a

pic of them but they are yellow cases with a steel ring gear on them,

rather than the black ones that came in the X 1.




As for the Body

http://www.boscovs.com/StoreFrontWeb...9&type=Product

not where I got it from but a better price than I paid for it at Meijer.

[BeeRC]

Thanks again. By the way, where did you get your updated "X-Factor 2" diffs??

[SSMuddHauller69]

I got them from my LHS but I think hobbypeople.net has them as well.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149886.asp

not sure if this is them but they look exactly like what I got for mine.

I dont know if there straight cut or helical cut gears.

I have helical cut gears on mine.

[BeeRC]

I just noticed your front chassis extensions with "towing eyes"....very good idea!


How much of your interior did you have to trim out for motor clearance?

Did your steering servo and servo mounting plate install in front of the stock upper-diff 4 link mounts OK without having to trim away any diff/axle material to provide clearance for them?

Did you have to slightly bend the steering drag link or the tie rod to clear the front of the diff?

[SSMuddHauller69]

Yeah they were not intended for that but it turned out that way. The first

suspension setup was a leaf spring setup that didnt work, that was where

the shackel went they look cool but the material that I made them out of

was to brittle and they cracked.


As for the interior not a lot was necessary mainly around the motors.



The front steering wasent to bad didnt have to trim anything but did have

to bend the rods a little to clear, just designed the servo mount in front

of the 4-link mounts to make it work. I was going to have the servo

mounted on the frame and have it drop down like conventional steering

but with the 4-link I kenw it would mess with the steering angles.

[BeeRC]

I thought about mounting the steering servo on the chassis above the axle too, but decided not to for the same reason you didn't do it. I think putting a fairly large offset or 'Z' bend in the drag link would probably help a lot though. What do you think?


Since you re-mounted your steering servo in front of the link mounts on the diff, did you still have to bend the tie rod to clear the diff or were you then able to keep it straight?


When you trimmed your interior around the motors, was it just part of the rear floor and part of the back seat that had to be removed, or was it more than that? Did you have to get into the front seats or floor area at all?


Also, did you cut and bend your servo mounts by hand, or do you have machinery at your disposal that you used to make them? I'm just wondering, do you have any more of them made up, or would it be a quite a hassle or take a lot of your time to make a couple more? I'm just asking (and I hope I don't seem like I'm being forward about this) because I'd be interested in buying 2 of them from you if at all possible. If you can't, that's perfectly fine too...I just thought I'd ask. I have so many parts I need to fab for several other RC projects that I have underway (heck, you probably do too) that I really don't relish the idea of adding even more to the list, since I have to hand fab most all parts of this type and it is just so time consuming for me...probably because I'm so darn particular...lol. A good machinist friend makes my major parts at no charge (such as the chassis for this truck that I mentioned in an earlier post), but I try to make 'sheet aluminum' type parts myself if at all possible, since he is so good about machining the major parts for me.

[SSMuddHauller69]

As far as the mounts I just took a 90 degree piece of aluminum measured where the servo would sit and cut it to width and notched it to fit the frt axle mount. I am a little busy with my own projects and hunting season here in michigan so my weekends are pretty busy. Here are a few pics of the mounts and the body that might help you out in you build. The steering rods I made myself out of 1/4 aluminum for lowes and the toe rod was from the original x factor suspension link just bent it to work so it wouldn't hit the servo mount.

[BeeRC]

Thanks a lot for the pictures. That helps me to plan some of the details for mine. I really appreciate you doing that. You have really been helpful. Thanks again very much!!!

Have you worked out your motor & gearing issues yet?

[SSMuddHauller69]

No have not figured it out yet may go with 55t lathes and maybe the slipper upgrade and see how that works. Have not looked at Kershaw Engineering yet, is there a website for them?

I might have to upgrade the trans gears to steel or aluminum because I had a tug-o-war with my budies 1/6 nylint jeep and the gears were popping under the heavy load. I didn't loose but all I had was three wheel drive because one of the frt tires wouldnt stay on the ground due to the torque.

[steveo 561]

its the idler gears that go first in the e-maxx tranny, you can get a set of steel idlers from rc-monster, and you should be ok i think there around $30

[GeoffSFAs10]

the stacks are awesome. shoulda kept em. too bad you didnt have a nitro motor in there.

[BeeRC]

X2 on the steel idler gears from RC Monster.

If you type in http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/about.html and you should get the Kershaw designs/engineering homepage. Let me know if that works for you. If it doesnt work, just google Kershaw Designs. Dan is great to deal with and he is extremely knowledgeable, and his products are awesome.

As I said in an earlier post, he set me up with dual 820 size motors, custom gearing, custom slipper, custom motor plate for the E-Maxx tranny, (even a Novak Super Duty speedo) for my 1/6 truck which I described in that earlier post I mentioned. My truck is VERY similar to yours.

Keep me posted.

[BeeRC]

X2 on the steel idler gears from RC Monster. If you go to http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/about.html you should get the Kershaw designsengineering homepage. Let me know if that works for you. Dan is great to deal with and he is extremely knowledgeable. His products are awesome. As I said in an earlier post, he set me up with my 820 size motors, custom gearing, custom slipper, custom motor plate for the E-Maxx tranny (even a Novak Super Duty speedo) for my truck which I described in that earlier post. My truck is VERY similar to yours.... Keep me posted.

[intimadationrc]

lol everything looks better with a little mud on it

[SSMuddHauller69]

Found out what im going to do.... 55 lathe motors, upgrade trans idler gears, and slipper upgrade. Maybe lower pinions too but Ill do that if the motors are not enough. The Kershaw motors are a little big, Im trying to cut back on some weight this thing is a hog already. Tying to find just a 1/6 scale lexan body but they all cost to damn much at 120.00 min I could buy 4 silverado bodies for that much, it sure does crawl a lot better with the body off though.

Going to redo the body, I have two others one red and one black. I am going to do another black one that is going to have no tilt bed (will just have open bed no cover) , probally no working lights just bare bones. This one is going to be the D-MAXX version with exhaust stacks out the bed, dmaxx emblems.



I need one for looks and one to thrash on. Too many ideas and no time to do them, with winter on its way should have a little more time to work on the upgrades.

[BeeRC]

What Duramaxx emblems will you be using? Will they be stickers or actual emblems?

Regarding Kershaw, I thought you might get some ideas from him for gearing since he does custom gears for these big hawgs. Yes, the motors he uses are large and heavy!! (but very powerful)

[Prophecy]

Where did you get your X-Factors from. I cant find them anywhere, not even on ebay! Im looking to do a 1/6 scaler and my axle choices were these and the TXT's but i prefer to go with the X-Factors cause they are bigger.