Styrene Tube Chassis Build

[JKred]

I mulled over actually starting a thread, but I figure if I share it, it will keep me focused on finishing it. So here we go....

I decided to make a tube buggy-ish chassis for my trekker guts. I have a full sized money pit I have grand schemes for, but since this cheaper and the fiancée won't kill me... I chose to work with 0.125" styrene rod. It's not quite "to scale", but it's strong enough, and significantly lighter than brass, and easy to work with... I'm actually very surprised with how strong it's been so far.

I started with the TG rear engine crawler buggy as inspiration, but it's been taking its own form as I go.


I started with two u shape tubes for the motor mounts and the base of the whole chassis. Don't mind the charring on my first bends. This is really my first time working with styrene so I'm still learning how best to heat and bend.



For the shock mounts I chose to use 0.125"x0.25" strip. At all junctions, I've been carefully notching the parts to try and get the tightest fit possible.


I chose to make the chassis a little wider than stock and give it more of a boat side "slider".



I also used the 0.125"x0.25" strip for the UCA mounts. I moved them a little higher than stock configuration (using stock links for now) to get a little more frame separation and a little lower AS. I don't know how much link geometry plays into performance of these micros, but I figured why not.


It was right about here I realized my shock mounts would bind like hell, so I rolled them in to be more parallel to the shock body.


At this point I added the links and axles for space reference and started working on the side and roof tubing. Unfortunately I've only got the rear-side tube completed.


And that brings me up to date. I'm thinking if something along these lines:

(Excuse the lame finger drawings) but with more triangulation. Lots more.

The hurdle I'm at now.... Where to put the electronics. I'd like to keep it all inside the chassis.

Open to suggestions from the experienced

So far very happy with how it's coming out tho.

[rcdave13]

Put CA on an old x-acto blade so you can apply it around the outside of the joints. Adds strength and looks like a weld. You can take the the ESC out of the case and cover it with heatshrink or liquid electrical tape to save space. Feel free to use my build for ideas.
New Build - Micro Rock Racer

[JKred]

WOW! I'm bummed I never saw that thread before. I considered doing a southern style rock bouncer but wanted to go more pure crawler look. Amazing build.

For the false welds with CA, did you use the slow cure "thick" mix?

I'm using the medium right now as it cures fairly quick but is a little more forgiving with gaps.

I may strip the case on esc, not sure yet.

[rcdave13]

I used Loctite thin 5sec for everything but you would probably be better off using the medium. I did like 3 applications of thin to build it up but you could probably just do 1 with the medium.

[1tuffmj]

Looks sweet,it's got a good look wit the cage the way it is now

[RcLee]

Esc thats still cased will fit the stock width of the frame rails w bumper removed....looks cool dressed up like a fuel cell.

[Fungi]

Lots of ways to build, but using glue made for styrene and making the parts fit as precise as possible will make a stronger frame. The glue softens the material at the joint and when cured the material recombines. It's still a joint that can break though.

[JKred]

I'm still avoiding the electronics like the plague, but I think I figured out the roof line and taper of the chassis front to back.





And as far as I understand, CA works like MEK and melts the styrene to bond it?

[Full_Throttle]

CA works a little differently then MEK. CA adheres two surfaces together. No "melting" there. MEK fuses the two surfaces together by "melting" so to speak. It's a solvent and it literally dissolves the surfaces being joined.

Very creative using the styrene tube for this. I really dig what you've done!

[JKred]

Thanks! And thanks for the clarification. I guess if anything comes apart I'll fix with MEK.

[DANALLY]

Looking good and love the design!

I drill all my tubes at the joints with a drill bit sized to make a press fit and sleeve them with small piano wire. After glued they are way stronger.

It also really helps with mock up as everything stays put while gluing

[JKred]

Damn, another great idea with the piano wire. It would definitely help with a few of my junctions but when I finish I "plan" to have multiple tubes meeting at one node.

Just finished the second roof bar. Really happy with the shape. I think I'll let this cure overnight before starting the roof triangulation.





Or maybe electronics, ugh

[JKred]

Picked at this a little more over the last few days. It's really starting to come together.

I decided (finally) on how to run my electronics. I put a simple platform just above the tranny and slightly forward that should work with Velcro strips. I tried to sink it behind the tranny but it was just barely catching the rear driveshaft under rear compression. Battery will be velcro'd to the top of the front axle.

Also finished some of the roof bars, and started on the roof triangulation.

[cjgotch]

Yea this is starting to come together! Looks awesome!! Thumbs up on the platform over the tranny.

[Richterat83]

Amazing and creative!!

I REALLY need to start with styrene!!!

[DANALLY]

VERY NICE! One of the best designs with styrene yet

I can't wait to see what you do on the front end. Or is that it ???

[JKred]

Thank ya much guys!

Originally Posted by DANALLY

VERY NICE! One of the best designs with styrene yet

I can't wait to see what you do on the front end. Or is that it ???

The front end basically is what it is. I was going for the "feel" of a rear engine crawler. I may put a hoop on it but right now I'm happy with leaving it open. With the servo and the battery being over the front axle I'm not sure how I'd work around it.

[malofish]

Looks like an awsome boxtop entry!!!

[JKred]

Another small update, finished the "windshield bars" and roof triangulation. Just need to figure out what I'm doing with the rear and wrap things up.



I nearly shit myself why I dropped it off the desk, but it took the hit off the floor like a champ!

Also, as a side observation, the way I rolled the shock mounts in seems to have given it the same ride height as I had it before (slightly chopped stock springs), but has made it ride with full shock extension. The cool benefit to this I'm finding is absolutely zero unloading, which should make it climb nicely, tho I don't know yet.

This is almost perfectly vertical and it still has a tendency to keep the tires into the wall (on in this case the printer lol)

[Muddchick80]

How did you get the bends in the styrene? Was it with a heat gun or ?? And once you bent them could you re-bend them if you didnt' have the right angle? Any input would be helpful. Thank you