SXC10: Popping noise from rear driveshaft

[DanRC]

I have recently installed the Axial metal links kit however a popping noise can be heard from the rear drive shaft area. The noise only occurs when it is on the ground being rolled or being driven forward and backward. There is no sound when the car is being held in the air and I spin the wheels manually.
Any solutions?

Here is a video showing the popping noise:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=autrThUlrPI

Pictures:
Front - https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.co...117_193930.jpg
Rear - https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.co...117_193936.jpg

Thanks
Dan

[k7zpj]

Without being able see pictures my best guess is that the top links are not of the right length and are causing the drive shaft to bind. When your rig is on the ground the suspension is partially compressed which is changing the angle and causing the binding. If you post pictures we could see if the problem is too short of tops links or too long.

[TacoCrawler]

I'll take a guess

maybe the single screw inside the drive shaft tube
securing to the universal coupler has come loose ?

If ya didn't assemble the DS's with some locktite
or it was an RTR... then it's one possibility.

Could allow some barrel twist and a slight DS pop.

You did re-phase the driveshaft's during reassembly, yes ?

the original shaft tube end's have small raised marks ( - ) molded in
that need be aligned with each other.
or the universal's can be aligned simply by looking at the pins
and be sure they are in alignment with each other Fr/Rr.

[Ditchrat]

When I build my dingo I built it with three links per the instructions. a couple days later I installed the 4 links that came with the kit and I had that problem. Turned out that the stock parts where to long. At first I thought I had done something wrong. I went over the instructions and double checked everything. I just didn't want to believe they would provide links the wrong size. Sure enough I went back to the three link and the noise went away.

Ultimately I made my own upper links, and needed to cut the lower links back to get the axle centered in the wheel wells, a smooth driver shaft angle and front wheel angle.

Once I got that all worked out I got a really smooth working drivetrain.

Like I said I couldn't believe that stock parts, including metal links wouldn't be the right lenght but they weren't and they made the truck run like dirt.

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

When I build my dingo I built it with three links per the instructions. a couple days later I installed the 4 links that came with the kit and I had that problem. Turned out that the stock parts where to long. At first I thought I had done something wrong. I went over the instructions and double checked everything. I just didn't want to believe they would provide links the wrong size. Sure enough I went back to the three link and the noise went away.

Ultimately I made my own upper links, and needed to cut the lower links back to get the axle centered in the wheel wells, a smooth driver shaft angle and front wheel angle.

Once I got that all worked out I got a really smooth working drivetrain.

Like I said I couldn't believe that stock parts, including metal links wouldn't be the right lenght but they weren't and they made the truck run like dirt.

I have some spare spacers that I could put on the lower links as at the moment they seem to be pulling the axle forward

Thanks for the reply

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I'll take a guess

maybe the single screw inside the drive shaft tube
securing to the universal coupler has come loose ?

If ya didn't assemble the DS's with some locktite
or it was an RTR... then it's one possibility.

Could allow some barrel twist and a slight DS pop.

You did re-phase the driveshaft's during reassembly, yes ?

the original shaft tube end's have small raised marks ( - ) molded in
that need be aligned with each other.
or the universal's can be aligned simply by looking at the pins
and be sure they are in alignment with each other Fr/Rr.

What do you mean by re-phase the drive shafts? (sorry i'm new). I am also currently uploading a video which will hopefully shed some light

Thanks for the reply

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

Without being able see pictures my best guess is that the top links are not of the right length and are causing the drive shaft to bind. When your rig is on the ground the suspension is partially compressed which is changing the angle and causing the binding. If you post pictures we could see if the problem is too short of tops links or too long.

Currently uploading a video, will share when done

Thanks for the reply

[DanRC]

Here is a video showing the popping noise:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=autrThUlrPI

Pictures:
Front - https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.co...117_193930.jpg

Rear -
https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.co...117_193936.jpg

[snapon boy]

There is a video or 2 on utube about rephasing or aligning the drive shafts and it's also discussed in the manual.

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by snapon boy

There is a video or 2 on utube about rephasing or aligning the drive shafts and it's also discussed in the manual.

Don't worry I have sorted the problem. Just had to but some spacers in the links so the driveshafts wouldn't bind.

[Sneetches]

I realized I'm a bit late but yeah in those pictures the driveshafts looked bound up. There are different sized female shafts on the parts tree, long\medium\short, that make up for that.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Sneetches

I realized I'm a bit late but yeah in those pictures the driveshafts looked bound up. There are different sized female shafts on the parts tree, long\medium\short, that make up for that.

I agree, there is no room for the shaft to compress when the suspension compresses.... nice catch sneetches!

[TacoCrawler]

^ what they said.

the drive shaft's center floating spline
needs some space to float back and forth in
during suspension compression.

So at least 1/4" of space between the two drive shaft halves.
It may require a little more space...
but that depends on how long the shocks are
and how much they can compress.

Another common popping issue
occurs when the stock plastic balls in the ball ends
are replaced with steel balls.

As the steel balls are not as wide as the plastic ones were.
So the balls can shift left to right some on there securing screw
and this can create a clicking or pop sound.

In that case... it can be remedied by placing a thin washer
on one side of the link balls so the play is removed.

As far as phasing the drive shaft's
I purdy much explained what needs to occur in my prior post.

Any time the drive shaft is disconnected...
It is critical to ensure that the DS is re-aligned correctly.

youtube has tons of video instruction regarding this issue.

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

^ what they said.

the drive shaft's center floating spline
needs some space to float back and forth in
during suspension compression.

So at least 1/4" of space between the two drive shaft halves.
It may require a little more space...
but that depends on how long the shocks are
and how much they can compress.

Another common popping issue
occurs when the stock plastic balls in the ball ends
are replaced with steel balls.

As the steel balls are not as wide as the plastic ones were.
So the balls can shift left to right some on there securing screw
and this can create a clicking or pop sound.

In that case... it can be remedied by placing a thin washer
on one side of the link balls so the play is removed.

As far as phasing the drive shaft's
I purdy much explained what needs to occur in my prior post.

Any time the drive shaft is disconnected...
It is critical to ensure that the DS is re-aligned correctly.

youtube has tons of video instruction regarding this issue.

Yeah that was the problem. Thanks


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[DanRC]

Originally Posted by Sneetches

I realized I'm a bit late but yeah in those pictures the driveshafts looked bound up. There are different sized female shafts on the parts tree, long\medium\short, that make up for that.

Problem solved. Thanks!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk