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Old 08-05-2009, 10:42 AM   #61
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SO just a little update. I have been playing with this thing every chance I get. I did find my servo fix didn't do the job 100%--so I upped it one more step and this seems to be doing the job--took a good hard smack





Now thats some beef and holond up quite well now. I am however still concerned with hitting the servo horn hard enough to damage the servo--so I am still looking at other options..

I found I was having a glitch when I would run the servo back/forth pretty fast. I ended up pulling the BEC power from the reciever and going directly to the servo and using the ESC power for the reciever and dig switch--that seems to have fixed it.

I am still tweeking the ESC and getting it better tuned to my needs--but I am still unsure if my clod stall is "more" than I want. I went and swapped the front pionion for a 12t so running a 12/11 combo and I think it helped a tad. But I am still concerned my voltage is just too low and causing more stall.

I also pondering the idea of maybe the link geometry is causing some...
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:57 AM   #62
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I have my BEC powering my 7955 servo only, and it works well.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:02 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CronusTRD View Post
I have my BEC powering my 7955 servo only, and it works well.
Once I noticed the glitch--it dawned on me what I had done. Simple fix
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:45 AM   #64
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I consider my Servo horns disposable or to be a fuse....

I think you might be in for some serious damage if that rig takes a nosedive and hits hard on the horn.
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:08 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CronusTRD View Post
I consider my Servo horns disposable or to be a fuse....

I think you might be in for some serious damage if that rig takes a nosedive and hits hard on the horn.
And thats my fear--I am looking at things at a different angle too--will see if I can come up with something...
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:54 AM   #66
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Ok so I looked at the steering again and re-evaluted it. I came up with the conclusion that having the servo horn up where it was--was just asking for trouble on hard flips and tumbles. I didn't want to risk damaging the servo so I pulled the mount off and redid it.Here is what I came up with.















I am still unsure of the tie rod placement. If the tie rod goes below the arms then its lower and more likely to get hung up--but it will protect the servo horn. If I run it on top--I retain the clearance I had but the horn is there to be hit.
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:36 PM   #67
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very nice build i like that wheelspeed on that.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:49 PM   #68
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Well here is how the steering turned out. I am pretty sure I will redo it again but for now it works pretty good and still higher than my tlt was. So I took it out at lunch today at my local play area near work. Lines I know my tlt would get stuck due to steering--I didn't have any issue I could not drive thru..







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Old 08-07-2009, 03:49 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xgerstandtx View Post
very nice build i like that wheelspeed on that.
Thanks
I can't wait to try it with a 3s Lipo..
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Old 08-07-2009, 04:02 PM   #70
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wow, I really like how you made damn near everything.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:56 PM   #71
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LOVE your steering set-up....
you should run the links like this for a little more clearance???


xirtic's rig..








great build!!
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #72
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As you can see from 53 Willy's post above, I have also been chasing the inverted steering servo setup. I was going thru a servo horn every few days, and I was not happy thinking that it was chewing up my servo hit-by-hit. Here are a few things that I have found helpful:

1. Use a 4mm based steering linkage system with REVO ends. My links are NOT hollow delrin. I push a 4mm threaded rod thru the entire length of the delrin steering links. This gives me a VERY strong link, and also makes them slick....without getting overly bulky.

2. I have had NO negative impacts raising the links and reversing them as shown in the picture. Give it a try. I will be hitting the rocks again tomorrow with this setup for a local Comp.


My build, and more photos of my setups are located at:

Bully Build - Take Two
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:11 AM   #73
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Quote:
I can't wait to try it with a 3s Lipo..
Do tell.. I'm running a similar setup 454's/1300 2C/Mamba max/bully's

Seems like the battery isn't up to the task. The first few minutes are great but after 4-5minutes she starts losing punch.

Was thinking a larger 2C or maybe, fingers crossed, 3C?
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:14 PM   #74
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I had really sat there and looked at doing the draglink/tie rod above the arms. But I kept coming back to the servo arm right there in the bash zone--in the area where you are constantly hitting. Along with that and the rolling mass you get from these bully's--it just added up to bad. Plus here we comp on rip/rap rock way more that monolithic--so the hitting of the tie rod is alot more. I might try it and see how it goes. But after our GTG yesterday--ran 3 10 gate courses (6 of us) I was able to win all 3--and my tie rod never seemed to be an issue.

I also tried a 3s lipo and I did not notice a single difference except the wheel speed and that was not a concern..

So after some time with the rig--I figure the motors broke in because the clodstall is alot better now. Also the motors did not get very hot--hell my servo got hotter

But I am very happy and looking forward to the club comp next sunday on mono rock
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:19 PM   #75
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Oh and on e thing to add--what 4mm rod ends are you guys running?
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:31 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashfab View Post
oh and on e thing to add--what 4mm rod ends are you guys running?

revo
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:15 AM   #77
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One thing that really interests me. So on my shafty I was running a novak brushless 18.5 turn motor goat system with the same lipo's. So with my dual motor setup and a servo that gobbles more power--I am getting longer run times with the same battery packs. I just thought it was interesting--and hoping my new G3 3 cell lipos show up today for this weekends comp..
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Old 08-15-2009, 02:30 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xirtic View Post
revo
By any chance do you have the traxxas number for them? I have searched and I can't locate them with the 4mm...
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:36 PM   #79
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Tra5347
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:38 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xirtic View Post
Tra5347
Well those are the same ones I run on my links and tie rod
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