Hello

[the_law_man01]

Originally Posted by Smokin' Joe

I'm definitely curious if you do come up with an adjustment for the upper link mount how it affects performance. I've certainly found link geometry makes a huge difference in performance, but I'm far from a guru on it.

I drilled a new hole for now and moved the front link mount point rearward where it needed to be for camber. I just left the rear because if I moved it forward it would be in the way if the motor. But, since I don't have rear steer it's not a huge deal.

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[E10rc]

This is what I did for adjustable links. Keep in mind that these only make them longer than stock since I have not cut the links to allow making them longer or shorter than stock.
Since I added rear steer, these were the factory lockout links in the rear. They are left/right threaded turnbuckles.
Adding rear steer and the bent lower links shortens them from factory length and so does moving them inboard which drives the pinion angle upward as you pull the axle forward to the attachment point, if the upper link is left alone. This turnbuckle allows making the lower links longer to compensate for pinion angle correction and since the knuckles are in a fixed position on the axle housing, caster angle as well as camber.


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[E10rc]

Droop/lift kit finally showed up.



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[the_law_man01]

Originally Posted by E10rc

Droop/lift kit finally showed up.



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Nice. I would suggest making a crossmember to go between the extensions just to increase rigidity. They will see a bit of pressure to toward the inside.

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[E10rc]

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[E10rc]

Still in the design/development phase, but some mock up shots for side mounted battery pods/trays to increase weight, lower cg, and relocate esc and rcvr.







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[Smokin' Joe]

I did this quite a while ago...I never posted about it, but it is something you could consider. I made little plastic trays to hold my battery and electronics that sit on the upper links (battery on back, electronics and servo battery on front). The trays are zip tied (loosely so they don't restrict movement) to the upper links. You need to use smaller batteries to do this, but the weight ends up being quite a bit lower on the vehicle. I am using a 1000mah 3S lipo and it lasts quite a while for how I use it (I'd estimate 45 minutes to an hour). I just bring a spare or two depending on how long I plan to be out.

[E10rc]

Link day.
Straightening the links and adjusting length for pinion angle.
Uppers need to be about 3mm higher at the axle to eliminate binding on the lowers at full compression by hand, but there is no binding driving it. Lowers could be moved inboard to match the spacing of the uppers at the axle.





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[E10rc]

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[E10rc]

And busted.



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[the_law_man01]

Bummer on the servo!

I recommend the PowerHD 20kg (or 23kg) waterproof.

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

Bummer on the servo!

I recommend the PowerHD 20kg (or 23kg) waterproof.

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I was actually expecting it. I had a replacement gear on hand and promptly blew it out as well. New metal geared waterproof 20kg’s are on the way as well as parts for the 2075, and the castle bec will finally be installed.




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[the_law_man01]

I set my castle on 6v and love it.

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[E10rc]

Small update.
Relocated electronics.
Aluminum cases metal geared 20kg servos with aluminum horns.
10amp castle bec set at 6v.
And the upper half of the links.
More bits coming.





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[E10rc]

So I ordered the wrong length (too short) lower links unless I cut the driveshafts, but then to keep the pinion angle correct I would also need to shorten the upper links as well. No worries since they can also be used on the erbe to replace the bent steel ones.
So........ordered the correct links and with nothing else to do, replaced more of the fat head Phillips screws with stainless hex button head versions and broke out the dremel on the knuckles ( the truck, not my hands lol )
From the smaller button heads on the chubs and shaving the steering stops, the available increase on stop to stop (approx 70% now as opposed to around 50 before on a 270 degree servo) travel limits on the transmitter equate to about 20 degrees more steering. You can hear the inside tires clawing on pavement while turning now and the 4ws circle is markedly smaller.
Custom battery trays and other goodies will show up next week....
Stay tuned.
Hints....
122g (4.3oz) more on each corner in addition to the already installed 3oz in each front and 1.5 oz in each rear. (Gonna give these 20kg servos a workout).
Wheel wobble eliminators.
More wheel speed.
Dual batteries in parallel and lower than the stock tray.

New steering angle front and rear.





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[E10rc]

122g aluminum wheels.





Clamping hex adapters


Correct lower links

Left side is factory and right is with the new wheels




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[the_law_man01]

From that angle, those tires look better on the aftermarket wheels.

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

From that angle, those tires look better on the aftermarket wheels.

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They are narrower and hence a bit taller.
Still on the fence with them until I get it on the ground.
More side bite maybe ?
They are not the easiest things to put together trying to pinch that wide tire down lol.



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[E10rc]

The links for anyone interested are Traxxas pt # 5138x for the uppers (102mm), 5139x for the lowers(112mm), and I bought a pack of 8 spacers #5133 (red) to adjust the lowers for pinion angle if need be.


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[TheLetterJ]

Wouldn't the truck climb better with the rear upper links in the factory location, increasing anti-squat? I seem to eventually land on that setup on all my crawlers, with the rear having high anti-squat, and the front having very low anti-squat (like your front uppers currently give you.) I'd say that it's at least worth the experiment to see for yourself.

Another cheap DIY project for these is to make your own "beef tubes" out of 1/8" brass pipe nipples.

What's your belly clearance at right now? I know it's terrain/COG/wheelbase/width dependent, but amongst our group of about a dozen cars, I've noticed that 2 3/4" is about the low end of what "works" and 3 3/8" is about the high end, 3 1/2" seems to be the point of diminishing returns.