TLT Steering?

[metomwhou]

Thought a few more pics wouldn't hurt.

Left to right: Blackfoot, ?, ?, TLT, Max Climber(modded), Max Climber(modded even more)


Left to right: Blackfoot, ?, ?, TLT, Max Climber(modded), Max Climber(modded even more)


The ones in the middle now are the Max Climber that I've reduced the cup length and hit with a cone shaped stone/dremel. The ones on the right are the Max Climber that I've reduced the cup length, hit with a cone shaped stone/dremel AND notched the slots into a V.


This is how far I can turn them now:





This is what the knuckles look like at full lock, both directions:



So like I said in the post above, even though the knuckles will turn all the way to the C's, I am getting driveline input about 1/4" from full lock. Any thoughts?

[Nova's Ark]

Good post metomwhou, but you still need to clearance the C. I also don't think you can mod the stub shaft enough to get more steering than you would with CVD's. Plus the CVD's turn silky smooth, stub shafts tend to bind up on the dog bone.

This photo is with the C and the knuckle clearnanced:



This is an old photo and I was able to get more steering by shaving the steering linkage, the axle C, and the axle housing. These axles have since been sold so I can't update the picture. I am going to build another TLT comp rig soon and will update the pictures when I build those. In the mean time, you get the idea.

[Hildy]

Heres a TLT front axle setup on my current build with the following

CVDs w/ wideners
RCP Super-Max clearance knuckles
Stainless Steel Cs
RCP r/p
8-shooters black
Flatirons



Maxes out the CVDs..I believe 44 or 45*



That's one of the new delrin GC2s which the parts will be bolted to. Still need longer lower links

[Nova's Ark]

Hildy, that is nice, but you have to get the steering linkage on to really know what you will get out of it. I had to dremel/grind/file my linkage to take advantage of all the work I did to the C's and Knuckles. The pumpkin gets in the way for max steering. Your off to a great start and it looks good. Those GC2's look great. Good luck on your build.

[Hildy]

Nova's Ark,

Thank you for the compliments. I am still thinking about my overall steering setup but I've got a few ideas floatin around.

As for the linkage, I was going to bend the rod slightly to clear the diff, and if need be I have a Dremel

I think the best part of a build is figuring out these little tidbits to get the most out of your rig

Once my parts are in look out for a GC2 TLT comp build.

[Tanis]

Originally Posted by Hildy

Nova's Ark,

Thank you for the compliments. I am still thinking about my overall steering setup but I've got a few ideas floatin around.

As for the linkage, I was going to bend the rod slightly to clear the diff, and if need be I have a Dremel

I think the best part of a build is figuring out these little tidbits to get the most out of your rig

Once my parts are in look out for a GC2 TLT comp build.

Looks good Hildy, and it is 44*. I run the stock TLT tierod across and it just touches the pumpkin at full lock, and flexes nicely.

[Tanis]

Nova, if you flip your C's and knuckles over, you will gain a smidge more pumpkin clearance

[metomwhou]

Originally Posted by Nova's Ark

Good post metomwhou, but you still need to clearance the C. I also don't think you can mod the stub shaft enough to get more steering than you would with CVD's. Plus the CVD's turn silky smooth, stub shafts tend to bind up on the dog bone.

Clearancing the C wouldn't do me any good because I get driveline input a full 1/4" before the arm touches the C. Even though they will physically turn that far, they won't function at that angle.

I'm not trying to get more steering with the regular shafts than I could with CVD's, I'm just trying to match some of the other guys who posted up earlier in this thread.

I've got a few extra sets of axle stubbs so I'm just gonna mess around with the grinding stone some more and see if that does anything. Hopefully I can get it figured out.
Tom