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12-15-2005, 03:55 AM
| #41 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Thanx westcoast. Will be looking forward for the dimensions. After that, all systems go. I do have the revo shafts on stand by. I just got myself a B&D RTX tool and just finished grinding some plastics off it for better fit on the tranny case. It was binding like hell when it was stock...but i couldn't find the binding point. Its like on one side, i can get full articulation, but on the other, it was binding. can't remember which is which though. |
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12-15-2005, 03:54 PM
| #42 |
| MODERATOR™   Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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Drilling 4 holes and using crossbraces to hold the tranny is reeeeally easy. Easier than fabbing a skidplate I'd think. And a puddle of JB Weld to hold it in place? Never liked that idea.
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12-16-2005, 05:03 AM
| #43 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Well, both ways are quite cool. Both ways need skids plate. Maybe I'll decide when the time comes  |
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12-17-2005, 04:11 AM
| #44 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Anyone got the dimensions for the centre skid plate for a hacked chasiss. Or picture of it unmounted? Appreciate it. Thanx.
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12-17-2005, 09:04 AM
| #45 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NOrthern Cali
Posts: 312
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Aries, Sorry I havent updated with you,Ive been busy, Dim. for skid plate are kinda rough. 5 1/2" long,with around 1/2" bend at both sides,so it will be about 4 1/2" at the bottom.Make it a little longer though,just in case.Its 3 1/2" wide,winth a little bit of a bend at each end,to prevent getting caught up.As EeePee said,Its much easier to use cross members,and make a little skidplate outa plastic or so. |
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12-17-2005, 05:10 PM
| #46 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Thanx for the updates westcoast. I'll definitely need a skid plate whether or not I use the crossmembers or the jb-weld.
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12-19-2005, 01:16 AM
| #47 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
| Finally...
Ok...finally shaves the tranny case and cut the chassis. That felt a relieved. But I lost one of my cantilevers pivoting screw. Any substitue idea for it? Cause my cantis will be used a shock tower though. Thanx. Pics later.
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12-19-2005, 08:28 AM
| #48 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NOrthern Cali
Posts: 312
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you mean those big screws you put into the chassis?PM me your addy,and Ill see what I can do  |
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12-19-2005, 09:26 AM
| #49 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Thanx westcoast. I think i'll substitute it with M4 screws if I really cannot find the original. Now that the cantis is going to be my shock tower, I do wonder if it'll affect any caster at all cause my links will be stock....just swapping them top to bottom.
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12-20-2005, 04:57 PM
| #50 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
| Another set back...
I had cut the revo shafts long time ago cause i wanted to just use it without any other mods on my truck on a stock WB. Now that I've hacked the chassis, swop the links top to bottom, I find that i need to really stretch the revo shafts in order for them to fit. And in doing so, I find that the truck feels binding everywhere. But the tranny works fine. And the links are not parallel to the ground. Any suggestions please? Thanx. |
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12-20-2005, 06:49 PM
| #51 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: natick mass
Posts: 81
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are you able to see where the binding is coming from, i would say it may bee the revo's what does the u-joint angle look like? if its too steep you need to lower ur suspention by changing the shock mounting location or put limiting straps on hope it helps -matt |
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12-20-2005, 07:59 PM
| #52 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ  Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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12-20-2005, 08:22 PM
| #53 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004
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12-21-2005, 04:48 AM
| #54 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Matt, Its defnitely not the revo shaft cause i sand the u-joints for more clearance with the tranny case. Thank you. Bender, The suspension seems ok without the spring on. Anyway, i haven't quite decide on the suspension set-up as yet. Cause I just agot a minor setback with the cantis as my mounting post for the suspension system. Digler, Thank you vary much. Thats a GREAT help there .  |
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12-21-2005, 08:11 PM
| #55 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Ok guys, got some pictures of my hacked TXT today. Comments and problems with my set-up digs are welcome. Rig is not ready as yet. Awaiting for the Cheyenne Narrow BD to arrive and probable cut off of the front and rear side frame besides the shocks for more articulation. TXT17-1 TXT17-2 TXT17-3 TXT17-4 |
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12-21-2005, 08:23 PM
| #56 |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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I would lower the ride height down, so the upper links are sitting more flat. You will get alot of binding of the shocks on the frame, if you don't cut the front and back off. After you cut the frame, move the lower shock mounts out to the ends of the blue alum. axle brace. It'll put your shocks at a more natural angle, which will allow them to follow the axles movement without binding.
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12-21-2005, 08:40 PM
| #57 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: In the Garage!
Posts: 257
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I know it is not done like you said, but you are going to have to decide if you want a monster truck or a rock crawler. 1. Your cantilever system is not setup right. coming off of the blue cantilever arm there should be a link going from the blue arm to the axle and then the shock from the blue canty to the top of the chassis somewhere. Does the blue arm even move right now. Looks to me like you only have the shocks mounted from the blue arms to the axles and the blue arms don't even move. You might as well just get rid of the blue cantys and mount the shocks in the holes at the very end of the chassis. Also that will allow you to lower the body posts and get new lighter body to help with the COG. 2. You need to ditch the front bumper. I know the blue aluminum looks good but it is going to hit every rock you try and climb. 3. Eventually you will need to get rid of the heavy plastic body and trade it in for a lexan body. Much lighter and will lower you COG (center of gravity). 4. Like Bender said you definitely need to lower the truck also. 5. Have you gone and looked here at the TXT gallery and see how other trucks are setup and how there's are sitting. Low COG. these should give you some good ideas. TxT-1 Juggernaut Gallery Looking good though. Keep up the good work. Last edited by Xtreme RC; 12-21-2005 at 09:00 PM. |
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12-22-2005, 12:12 AM
| #58 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Bender, the lower shocks are mounted at the end of the axle guards now (after the picture was taken). But still, I'll need to lower the ride height. And cut off the front and back frame so that the articulation angle is more. I may even drill new holes on the alu axle guards for new mounting hole for the shocks. Extreme, The cantis only act as shock tower now. I decided to ditch its actual function. They dun move at all. Reason why I use the cantis as shock towers is because I find it a waste of the beautiful blue cantis to just dump it away and mount the shock on the body. As for the axle guard, I may decide to cut off the front to reduce its probability to get caught on rock. I did look through a lot of pictures here on the different set-up you guys have. I'm just making do with what I have right now. Like someone once said here, the hack job has just started. Therefore, it may take a while before I decide on the actual set-up. y the way, thats a lexan hummer shell which I'm going to replace too. Also, how do I reduce its ride height? Thanx for the input guys. I'll work harder to make this a real rock crawling machine. |
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12-22-2005, 12:52 AM
| #59 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NOrthern Cali
Posts: 312
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12-22-2005, 01:56 PM
| #60 |
| MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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It's a good idea to put the lower links on top of the axle.
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