RCCrawler Forums

missions1 · 12-08-2009, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grouser

Nce job,,,,,,,,,but
ONE- I would suggest removing the shims BEFOR you break them in with the drill. The added spacers might take the heat and force something out of place while on the drill or somethng stupid like that,,,why take a chance? They're not supoosed to be there so why run a single turn of the wheel with them in there? JMHO
TWO- The "worm stall" is really just all four wheels getting ALOT of traction,,,not a mis alignment in the drivetrain or out of synk worm gears as you suggest. With other brands of crawlers this hardly happens cuz they just torque twist a wheel up and the truck unloads and you move on. With the LCC it keeps diggin in and you can bind it up and break stuff. This is a good time to use the dig and unload the drivetrain, or if your not competing back up a tad,,,,again this is jmho as to what is happening,,
Three- While your there(removing the shims) drill a hole so you can add grease weekly or monthly as it tends to poop out the input shaft,,,keep them covered in grease. Use a sheet metal screw or tap threads they both work. Just make sure you keep the screw short and out of the gears !!!!!

Add a fan for cooling....

hey mate do you have a pic of your front shocks and the top of the shocks to see hoew they mounted i notice your running them upside down as that helped performance at all

paul

Rooster_65 · 12-12-2009, 04:33 PM

Hi Guys..
Just received #1820 a couple a day ago...

Is it still an issue with too many shims?
The manual that came with my car now have three shims on each side..(A02 / B01) so question i if they have done somethin about the car not only the Manual:?
I guess i have all winter to break it down, but still....

Peter

shaggybob · 12-12-2009, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rooster_65

Hi Guys..
Just received #1820 a couple a day ago...

Is it still an issue with too many shims?
The manual that came with my car now have three shims on each side..(A02 / B01) so question i if they have done somethin about the car not only the Manual:?
I guess i have all winter to break it down, but still....

Peter

I got number 2244, and the shim count was right but the front worm gears were cut wrong. Be sure to check that as well.

PDXFNG · 12-12-2009, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rooster_65

Hi Guys..
Just received #1820 a couple a day ago...

Is it still an issue with too many shims?
The manual that came with my car now have three shims on each side..(A02 / B01) so question i if they have done somethin about the car not only the Manual:?
I guess i have all winter to break it down, but still....

Peter

I just picked up #3902 today and am in the same situation. My book shows 6 shims per worm gear. I havn't taken it apart yet to see whats in there. Wondering if I should remove just 1 shim or 2 per side. :?

Can't wait to get this baby going

Edit: Nevermind, jumped the gun a little. More reading. 3shims on each side of the worm and 1 on each side of the spool. Book shows it that way for me

Rooster_65 · 12-14-2009, 03:03 PM

Yepp back to the shims.
I´m quite curious aswell...
The way i figure from the first post in this thread is that after removing the "extra shims" youre left with two on each side....a few posts later there is only one shim on each side after removal...

Come on guys help me out here...How many shims? And how should it feel?

I guess there should be a little play or are they supposed to feel "rigid" but not binding?

Cheers
Peter

silentcircus · 12-14-2009, 04:23 PM

You want three on each end of the worm pinion (the one on top that the driveshaft hooks to) and one on either side of the spool. If you look at the illustration in the manual it shows only one per side of the spool but it comes with two installed. I guess if there is a lot of play in the gear then you might want to use two per side.

yellorover · 12-17-2009, 10:31 PM

I have mine on order but have gotten different suggestions on motor tooth count. Does it need a 14 or a 18.5 . Probably going with a goat.

Rooster_65 · 12-21-2009, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silentcircus

You want three on each end of the worm pinion (the one on top that the driveshaft hooks to) and one on either side of the spool. If you look at the illustration in the manual it shows only one per side of the spool but it comes with two installed. I guess if there is a lot of play in the gear then you might want to use two per side.

Sorry forgot to say thanks (mom allways told me to).. so i guess I´m good to go then since I had 3+3 and 1+1 mounted on my rig #1820..

I had a flashback though, from my days as a service technician(10years ago) when i opened the axles and smelled "Kendall Super Blu" I have read many discussion on what grease to use, but I am 99% sure that Losi is using Kendall Super Blu

Peter

93firebird · 01-11-2010, 04:41 PM

I just picked up an LCC this weekend, and it looks like its been sitting at the LHS for a while. The serial number is 116. I'm a little bummed about that. Who do I need to contact to get the parts for replacement.

KBrog · 01-11-2010, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93firebird

I just picked up an LCC this weekend, and it looks like its been sitting at the LHS for a while. The serial number is 116. I'm a little bummed about that. Who do I need to contact to get the parts for replacement.

I dont know, Ive sent two emails to here feedback@teamlosi.com and still no responce in weeks.

Hulksta · 01-11-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KBrog

I dont know, Ive sent two emails to here feedback@teamlosi.com and still no responce in weeks.

Same here.. maybe they take a break after xmas??

rock brawler · 01-17-2010, 09:51 PM

if some one could help me it would be gratly apprishiated i have a coupel of rigs but am having troubel with one in particular and it is my lcc it was origanaly the nigh crawler but i converted it i am runing a 15t pinion with the traxxas titen moter and sidwinder esc with a bec i have fried the moters in this truck and the titen i am affaid is fixing to go it just gets so hot with in a few min and you cant hold your finger to it fo long at all and have no i dea what is causing this is a 3 cell 1.5 20-30c to much for this moter i realy did not think it would be but any way all help is verry much wanted

jacobflyin · 01-22-2010, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rock brawler

if some one could help me it would be gratly apprishiated i have a coupel of rigs but am having troubel with one in particular and it is my lcc it was origanaly the nigh crawler but i converted it i am runing a 15t pinion with the traxxas titen moter and sidwinder esc with a bec i have fried the moters in this truck and the titen i am affaid is fixing to go it just gets so hot with in a few min and you cant hold your finger to it fo long at all and have no i dea what is causing this is a 3 cell 1.5 20-30c to much for this moter i realy did not think it would be but any way all help is verry much wanted

1st LCC do not like Brushed motors they over heat them go get a brushless and it will work alot better,

2nd you will most likely have to drop down to a 12T pinion if you want to run any motor faster then a 18.5, It is very hard to make a losi fast but it will crawl over anything.

Scottmisfits · 01-22-2010, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacobflyin

1st LCC do not like Brushed motors they over heat them go get a brushless and it will work alot better,

2nd you will most likely have to drop down to a 12T pinion if you want to run any motor faster then a 18.5, It is very hard to make a losi fast but it will crawl over anything.

I agree with the gearing part but not the motor part.

A brushed motor is fine in the Losi. You just need to adjust your driving from an axial or something. If you get bound up at all, use your dig. If you get bound and continue to pull the trigger, you will cook a motor. If you use your dig to get out of it, which 90% of the time you should've done anyway, brushed motors will be fine for you.

JPH Racing · 01-27-2010, 07:41 PM

Still love my 19turn brushed motor in my LCC! I have been trying an MOA conversion and I'm liking what's happening so far, but need more time on the rocks to be sure.

From the 1st page:

Driving style: Use the DIG! Watch the Bind! (Worm Stall)
With the LCC, the worm drives can create something we call "Worm Stall". Basically, when starting a climb or bound up in the rocks, the front and rear axles can get out of sync and actually bind up the drive train. If the driver continues to apply throttle, motor over heating will occur. It's possible to permanently damage the motor and ESC.

One way to help overcome this is with the proper motor and gearing.

The 2nd way to overcome this is by using the dig. By using the dig as soon as you feel the worm stall occur, it will unload the bind and allow the LCC to continue forward progress. All you need to do is engage the dig, blip the throttle, and then disengage the dig back into 4WD. Sometimes, it's necessary to do this a few times when bound out really bad.

With practice, using the dig will become second nature. You'll be amazed at what the LCC will do with proper dig use. Be sure to practice using both the front and rear dig.

calikrawler · 01-28-2010, 05:36 AM

Ok so I picked up a losi night crawler and I was wondering what upgrades to do to it I put rims and tires on lowered the stance with internal springs and that's it it seems to crawl very well, I want I little more wheel speed will running a 45 or even a 35t motor help? I know the stock esc will handle the lower turn motor and I'm keeping the cheap esc because I wanna stick with 2s inless I need to go to 3s and FxR which I have laying around but I'm trying to shower people you can build a good rig cheap...

So any tricks or ideas for wheel speed lmk thanks

insanityxj · 02-09-2010, 10:34 AM

Some weights I have loged.

.045 wire 3 foot section .5 oZ
5/32 welding electrode striped of flux 1.2oZ
3/16 brass rod 3 foot section 4.9 oZ (it is coated in a thin layer of flux)

ManiacMagoo · 02-11-2010, 10:44 PM

I don't post much tech help often and haven't seen this posted so to help out some of the newer members with an old racing trick. I know the Losi ball studs are retarded tight and even after running it quite a bit still are on the tight side so chuck them up in a drill or dremel, get some tooth paste and a rag. Put some tooth paste on rag them turn drill or dremel on high and polish the snot out of them. You will have to use quite a bit of force to remove the black coating but in the end it is worth it as they will be free. Now on a couple of mine they were still tight so I put the link on with the ball cup and spun the ball in it for a few seconds to loosen it just a tad. Now my suspension is free and works like it should with no more binds.

rugerboy · 02-16-2010, 03:52 PM

Put a fan over your motor, They draw next to nothing, cheep, and definitely make a huge difference.

rockcrawler150 · 02-18-2010, 05:44 PM

Is the Novak Rooster 55t system a very good system? Will i burn up motors like everybody says they do? and will it have much power with a lipo?

02-18-2010, 05:44 PM	#40
rockcrawler150 Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Trafalgar Posts: 68	Novak Rooster Is the Novak Rooster 55t system a very good system? Will i burn up motors like everybody says they do? and will it have much power with a lipo?

12-12-2009, 04:33 PM	#22
Rooster_65 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Stockholm Sweden Posts: 15	Hi Guys.. Just received #1820 a couple a day ago... Is it still an issue with too many shims? The manual that came with my car now have three shims on each side..(A02 / B01) so question i if they have done somethin about the car not only the Manual:? I guess i have all winter to break it down, but still.... Peter

12-14-2009, 03:03 PM	#25
Rooster_65 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Stockholm Sweden Posts: 15	Yepp back to the shims. I´m quite curious aswell... The way i figure from the first post in this thread is that after removing the "extra shims" youre left with two on each side....a few posts later there is only one shim on each side after removal... Come on guys help me out here...How many shims? And how should it feel? I guess there should be a little play or are they supposed to feel "rigid" but not binding? Cheers Peter

12-14-2009, 04:23 PM	#26
silentcircus Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: My Old Kentucky Home.... Posts: 659	You want three on each end of the worm pinion (the one on top that the driveshaft hooks to) and one on either side of the spool. If you look at the illustration in the manual it shows only one per side of the spool but it comes with two installed. I guess if there is a lot of play in the gear then you might want to use two per side.

12-17-2009, 10:31 PM	#27
yellorover Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Houston Posts: 35	I have mine on order but have gotten different suggestions on motor tooth count. Does it need a 14 or a 18.5 . Probably going with a goat.

01-11-2010, 04:41 PM	#29
93firebird Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Newark Posts: 107	I just picked up an LCC this weekend, and it looks like its been sitting at the LHS for a while. The serial number is 116. I'm a little bummed about that. Who do I need to contact to get the parts for replacement.

01-17-2010, 09:51 PM	#32
rock brawler Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: tyler Posts: 3	if some one could help me it would be gratly apprishiated i have a coupel of rigs but am having troubel with one in particular and it is my lcc it was origanaly the nigh crawler but i converted it i am runing a 15t pinion with the traxxas titen moter and sidwinder esc with a bec i have fried the moters in this truck and the titen i am affaid is fixing to go it just gets so hot with in a few min and you cant hold your finger to it fo long at all and have no i dea what is causing this is a 3 cell 1.5 20-30c to much for this moter i realy did not think it would be but any way all help is verry much wanted

01-27-2010, 07:41 PM	#35
JPH Racing RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Rohnert Park Posts: 1,093	Still love my 19turn brushed motor in my LCC! I have been trying an MOA conversion and I'm liking what's happening so far, but need more time on the rocks to be sure. From the 1st page: Driving style: Use the DIG! Watch the Bind! (Worm Stall) With the LCC, the worm drives can create something we call "Worm Stall". Basically, when starting a climb or bound up in the rocks, the front and rear axles can get out of sync and actually bind up the drive train. If the driver continues to apply throttle, motor over heating will occur. It's possible to permanently damage the motor and ESC. One way to help overcome this is with the proper motor and gearing. The 2nd way to overcome this is by using the dig. By using the dig as soon as you feel the worm stall occur, it will unload the bind and allow the LCC to continue forward progress. All you need to do is engage the dig, blip the throttle, and then disengage the dig back into 4WD. Sometimes, it's necessary to do this a few times when bound out really bad. With practice, using the dig will become second nature. You'll be amazed at what the LCC will do with proper dig use. Be sure to practice using both the front and rear dig.

01-28-2010, 05:36 AM	#36
calikrawler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: HOBBY HQ Posts: 211	Ok so I picked up a losi night crawler and I was wondering what upgrades to do to it I put rims and tires on lowered the stance with internal springs and that's it it seems to crawl very well, I want I little more wheel speed will running a 45 or even a 35t motor help? I know the stock esc will handle the lower turn motor and I'm keeping the cheap esc because I wanna stick with 2s inless I need to go to 3s and FxR which I have laying around but I'm trying to shower people you can build a good rig cheap... So any tricks or ideas for wheel speed lmk thanks

02-09-2010, 10:34 AM	#37
insanityxj Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: podunk Posts: 79	Some weights I have loged. .045 wire 3 foot section .5 oZ 5/32 welding electrode striped of flux 1.2oZ 3/16 brass rod 3 foot section 4.9 oZ (it is coated in a thin layer of flux)

02-11-2010, 10:44 PM	#38
ManiacMagoo Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Albany Posts: 663	I don't post much tech help often and haven't seen this posted so to help out some of the newer members with an old racing trick. I know the Losi ball studs are retarded tight and even after running it quite a bit still are on the tight side so chuck them up in a drill or dremel, get some tooth paste and a rag. Put some tooth paste on rag them turn drill or dremel on high and polish the snot out of them. You will have to use quite a bit of force to remove the black coating but in the end it is worth it as they will be free. Now on a couple of mine they were still tight so I put the link on with the ball cup and spun the ball in it for a few seconds to loosen it just a tad. Now my suspension is free and works like it should with no more binds.

Sponsored Links

02-16-2010, 03:52 PM	#39
rugerboy Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Citrus Heights Posts: 207	Put a fan over your motor, They draw next to nothing, cheep, and definitely make a huge difference.

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