LCC Tips and Tricks

[JPH Racing]

Losi Comp Crawler Tips and Tricks:

This is a compilation of tips and tricks from many crawler guys here on RCC. It's intended to be a quick guide for those just getting their LCC's together, or those thinking about buying one. Please keep in mind, that things change and while we tried to get all the current info we could, you may read this months after a problem have been solved ....

Breaking in the axles? Although I did not do this, we have heard of many people using a drill to turn the axles for about 20 minutes to help break in the worm gears. I would suggest pulling the axles off the truck, chucking the input shaft into a drill and spin it at medium speed for 15 to 20 minutes. And then, pull it apart to remove the extra shims and repack them with grease.

Front and rear axles: (Remove shims and grease)
In Step A-02 and B-01, you will see shim #A6358 (12x4x.2mm) , there are two pictured in the exploded view, but we've found that the LCC actually comes with 4 of them.
It's best to disassemble the front and rear axles, and remove the extra shims. Allowing the Worm Gear Spool to have some side to side movement actually adjusts the mesh of the worm gears and will lower the operating temperature of the axles, allow longer run times and cooler motor temps.
When removing the extra shims, it's also a good idea to pack the worm gear with some extra grease. Losi suggests a good marine grease, we've had great luck with Team Associated #1105 Green Slime.
Note: Step A-03 When reassembling your front axle, make sure not to over tighten the set screws (#6248 ) holding in the King Pins. If over tightened, it will bind up the steering assembly.

Lower Links Pop Off: (bottom, chassis side)
A quick fix for the bottom links popping off their balls, is to install a couple of o-rings. We used Team Associated #6507 O-rings. If you do this trick when servicing the axles (removing the shim and greasing) it will be much easier. Simply install two o-rings between the lower link balls and one on either side of the lower link balls. This will keep the lower links from popping off. (see Step C-03)

Suspension bind: You will notice that on full articulation, the shocks do not compress all the way before the lower links hit the drive shafts. Some people do not worry about this, but I installed some Axial #A1358 Shock Dampeners on the shock shaft. This will keep the suspension from hitting the drive shaft.


Loctite drive lines and CVD's: Before you run the LCC, it's best to apply a small amount of loctite to the set screws that hold the CVD pins in place on both the axles (Step A-01) and the drive lines (Step E-02). From the original batch, loctite was not applied and in some cases the pins have fallen out.
Also, write down your serial # (located on top of the trani) in the instruction book. Then, e-mail or call Team Losi and request a complimentary set of CVD axles. In the original run, they had a mis-machined part that breaks very easily. In the mean time, reduce your overall steering throw and this will decrease the chances of breaking the part.


Tighten slipper: The slipper clutch comes on the loose side. After the first run, if you determine the slipper is too loose (you will hear it squeeling). Look at Step D-03, the trani break down, to see the 4-40 nut to tighten to adjust the slipper clutch.

Motor, ESC, and gearing: There are many popular motor / esc combos being used on the LCC. These include, but are not limited too:
Novak Goat Brushless system, 7.4 volt lipo, 12 to 14 tooth pinion.
Tekin 17.5 or 21.5 Brushless, 11.1 volt lipo, 12 tooth pinion.
Tekin FXR and Traxxas Titan brushed motor, 7.4 or 11.1 volt lipo, 12 to 14 tooth pinion.
Tekin FXR and a 19 turn brushed motor, 7.4 volt lipo, 12 tooth pinion.

Please read different threads on RCC and get all the input you can on the subject. One thing is for sure, the wrong motor combo, wrong gearing, or wrong driving style and you can fry you motor in minutes.
Note: Be aware that the motor temps may run higher as the parts break in and you may have to take breaks during the first few battery packs to let things cool down. We suggest carefully testing the motor temps with your finger about every five minutes. If you can keep your finger on the motor, then everything is fine. If the motor is too hot to hold your finger on it for only a few seconds, then it's best to let things cool down.


Setting gear mesh: Step D-05. With the LLC, setting the mesh with the Motor Plate, the gear mesh should initially be set a little on the loose side. When the Motor Clamp screws are tightened down, the mesh will snug up just a bit. Be sure to tighten the Motor Clamp screws evenly, a little at a time, until they are snug.
Note: Wipe a very small amount of grease in the channel on the Motor Plate, this will make it much easier to rotate and set the gear mesh.
Note 2: A cool trick is to install a pinion gear one tooth bigger than you intend to run and tighten down the Motor Clamp. Then, pull off the larger pinion and install the one you're going to run.

Wheel weights: The LCC, like most all crawlers, will work better with some weight added to the wheels. How much is dictated by driver's preference, but a place to start would be 6 to 8 ounces in each front and 3 to 4 ounces in each rear.

Driving style: Use the DIG! Watch the Bind! (Worm Stall)
With the LCC, the worm drives can create something we call "Worm Stall". Basically, when climbing, the front and rear axles can get out of sync and actually bind up the drive train. If the driver continues to apply throttle, motor over heating will occur. It's possible to permanently damage the motor and ESC.
One way to help overcome this is with the proper motor and gearing.
The 2nd way to overcome this is by using the dig. By using the dig as soon as you feel the worm stall occur, it will unload the bind and allow the LCC to continue forward progress. All you need to do is engage the dig, blip the throttle, and then disengage the dig back into 4WD. Sometimes, it's necessary to do this a few times when bound out really bad.
With practice, using the dig will become second nature. You'll be amazed at what the LCC will do with proper dig use. Be sure to practice using both the front and rear dig.

I hope this helps out! Please e-mail or PM me with questions or concerns

[grouser]

Nce job,,,,,,,,,but
ONE- I would suggest removing the shims BEFOR you break them in with the drill. The added spacers might take the heat and force something out of place while on the drill or somethng stupid like that,,,why take a chance? They're not supoosed to be there so why run a single turn of the wheel with them in there? JMHO
TWO- The "worm stall" is really just all four wheels getting ALOT of traction,,,not a mis alignment in the drivetrain or out of synk worm gears as you suggest. With other brands of crawlers this hardly happens cuz they just torque twist a wheel up and the truck unloads and you move on. With the LCC it keeps diggin in and you can bind it up and break stuff. This is a good time to use the dig and unload the drivetrain, or if your not competing back up a tad,,,,again this is jmho as to what is happening,,
Three- While your there(removing the shims) drill a hole so you can add grease weekly or monthly as it tends to poop out the input shaft,,,keep them covered in grease. Use a sheet metal screw or tap threads they both work. Just make sure you keep the screw short and out of the gears !!!!!

Add a fan for cooling....

[lakedan5150]

Check your spool and pinion gears in the worm, some of them have been wrong , not often but it happened, in checking your slipper make sure you have all your pads also, and also check your cvd's and make sure you have the new ones.

[djjiz]

I have 8xx and it's deffinatly the old cvds.

A little tip on the tires: sipe them like the new losi tires when your bored with the traction. There like little fingers gripping for anything in there path. Yes there is added wear but this is a comp crawler. Not a basher crawler.

Simple green is your friend.

[Azrcguy]

I have been trying shock stuff lately and the 4-40 lock nut on the shock bolt is kinda a pain so I replaced them with linkage collars. The type with the small set screw on them. It makes for quick shock removal.

[InFlames]

Originally Posted by jafa0

Unless you have contacted Losi and recieved new Cvd's from them, you most likely have the old ones. I am pretty sure the first thousand units or so all had the "old" shafts. Mine #303 did. I have broken 7 all together including one of the new ones. now running modded Axial cv's

I have 16xx and i had the old ones, got the new ones from losi and theyve seen hell so far, i dont even have my steering epa's turned down and theyre doing great.

[SuperRoo]

Check you new upgraded cvds for burrs from the milling of the slots.

[SuperRoo]

Originally Posted by InFlames

If your talking to me, i checked them today, they still look new, no signs of wear.

Nah, that was a general comment as both my new cvd's had burrs in them from the milling of the slots. I couldn't even put them together without a little work with a file and some light sanding.

I only just put the new ones in because I was waiting until I broke the original ones. They haven't broken yet but one has seized and was slowing the truck down every time turned more than 30* either way. The motor and esc have never gotten hot until this happened.

I'm still ummming and awwwing about puling them apart for inspection myself or send them back for inspection for Rich to see.

[InFlames]

Another thing is be easy when tightening the wheels, you can tighten them to tight, bending the little pins behind the hex's causing friction which causes HEAT.

[JPH Racing]

Originally Posted by InFlames

Another thing is be easy when tightening the wheels, you can tighten them to tight, bending the little pins behind the hex's causing friction which causes HEAT.

Rich mentioned coming up with a bearing spacer (goes in between the bearing) that will hlpe solve this problem. Good addition to the thread!

[grouser]

They have nylock nuts so you really just need to get them snug,,,they wont back off,,,,

[JPH Racing]

Originally Posted by grouser

They have nylock nuts so you really just need to get them snug,,,they wont back off,,,,

Well, I replace those ny-locks often and they come loose if they are not wrenched down fairly tight. rears more than fronts, but even so they all get good and tight before a comp and checked after every run.

[h8z2luze]

Just wanted to add that I had to add a shim in order to get my slipper tight enough. Might be a common thing. The advice came from rich so it must be right

[Grog71]

I just pulled my back axle off the lcc and spun the drive shaft by hand and it feels really smooth. I cant understand the shim removal especially if it is as smooth as it is. Please help me understand thei. I work in a machine shop and when you deal with gears mesh and backlash is everything.

[KBrog]

Originally Posted by Grog71

I just pulled my back axle off the lcc and spun the drive shaft by hand and it feels really smooth. I cant understand the shim removal especially if it is as smooth as it is. Please help me understand thei. I work in a machine shop and when you deal with gears mesh and backlash is everything.

Yours may not have the extra shims. I think just some of the first out had extra shims. My Losi is #812. I ran it and the axles got hot "really" HOT. When I took the rears apart I had two shims on each side of the spool. I removed one from each side and it runs smooth and cool now.

[Grog71]

I actually have #1448 and I just pulled it apart and it had 2 on each side. I am removing 1 on each side and going to put some blue marine grease in it. I trust what all the people are saying on here.

[grouser]

Originally Posted by Grog71

I just pulled my back axle off the lcc and spun the drive shaft by hand and it feels really smooth. I cant understand the shim removal especially if it is as smooth as it is. Please help me understand thei. I work in a machine shop and when you deal with gears mesh and backlash is everything.

that is why I take the engineers that built the truck advice,,,,go with one shim per side of the spool,,,just like in the book,,

[KBrog]

small internal springs in the shock really help a Losi out. I was having trouble with to much articulation, so I put fuel tubing on the shock, but that made it to stiff. The internal spring put in the right spot.

[Rams]

Good idea and good advice, I have gone very well, thank you very much.

[Peaker]

My fix.

I took the cartridge apart and replaced the spacer between the 2 O-rings with another 3 O-rings upping the total to 5 in each,i have just given each shock a 2 minute extreme toture test and so far all the oil stay where it belong.