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Old 03-12-2010, 11:05 PM   #41
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so while shopping at the hd tonight. i found in the plumbing aisle 1/4 od-1/8 id o-rings work just as well the red ae o-rings just a little fyi
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:47 PM   #42
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I trust the people here tooo. I would like to know what size pinion gear I should use , I just went through a gear today on my first little bit of crawl and it ius shot .
I was using a 14 tooth 48 pinion gear . What should I be using ???
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:13 PM   #43
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Default shim ?

can you show a pic. of a "shim". please thankyou.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:35 AM   #44
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I dont know, Ive sent two emails to here feedback@teamlosi.com and still no responce in weeks.
Reply to the site again. I replied three times then finally got a response saying the replacement parts are on the way. Just remember to be nice when asking for the parts. Keep in mind that it may be a very busy web site and it will take some time for them to answer your e-mail. Don't forget to give them the serial # of your crawler.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:18 PM   #45
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as too the o rings i used losi part #losa5420 shock o ring set, they work perfect and only have too use 3
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:20 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by rockcrawler150 View Post
Is the Novak Rooster 55t system a very good system? Will i burn up motors like everybody says they do? and will it have much power with a lipo?
I run the rooster and a 45t novak motor (brushed) with a 2200mah 2s lipo and dont have any trouble. It works out quite well with a 14t pinion. not to much wheel speed and good crawling speed, no motor heat issues.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:45 AM   #47
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ok folks I just picked up a LCC sn #5337 and per post 1 have tore this thing down. I have only taken the frontend apart and found there are no A6358 side shims on the worm gear. Is this correct? Maybe has Losi fixed this? Everything I have read on here says there should be at least 1 shim per side. Should I pick some up or just put it back together and break them in?

Also I can not seem to get the drive shaft off of the front slip joint. I have taken the set screws off but just can not seem to get it to budge.

Thank you for your replies.
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Old 04-25-2010, 01:12 PM   #48
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There may be a little extra Loctite on the shaft end, have you tried gently wedging a screwdriver at the end?

On your worms, is there any play at all side to side? The spool shouldn't be too tight but shouldn't be sloppy in the axle either. The shims are really thin though and may be stuck to the bearings.
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Old 04-25-2010, 01:49 PM   #49
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Thank you silentcircus I appreciate you taking the time to help me . I finally got the drive shaft off with a lot of wedge from a screw driver. I do have some side to side play in the spool. But to be honest I think if there was a shim in both sides it would make it a tight fit. So I guess I am going to put it back together and hook it up to the drill. I appreciate your time and help. I drilled and tapped threads into the front pumpkin of the front axel for a grease access point. Then I used a allen head 8/32 x 1/8 plug to fill the hole. Looks pretty clean and sits flush
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:14 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dk_vwguy83 View Post
so while shopping at the hd tonight. i found in the plumbing aisle 1/4 od-1/8 id o-rings work just as well the red ae o-rings just a little fyi
Went to H D and got those o-rings they worked like a charm and only cost $1.95 an a pack did both the front and rear lowers.No more popping off for me. Thanks
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:26 AM   #51
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Quote from tips:

Driving style: Use the DIG! Watch the Bind! (Worm Stall)
With the LCC, the worm drives can create something we call "Worm Stall". Basically, when climbing, the front and rear axles can get out of sync and actually bind up the drive train. If the driver continues to apply throttle, motor over heating will occur. It's possible to permanently damage the motor and ESC.
One way to help overcome this is with the proper motor and gearing.
The 2nd way to overcome this is by using the dig. By using the dig as soon as you feel the worm stall occur, it will unload the bind and allow the LCC to continue forward progress. All you need to do is engage the dig, blip the throttle, and then disengage the dig back into 4WD. Sometimes, it's necessary to do this a few times when bound out really bad.
With practice, using the dig will become second nature. You'll be amazed at what the LCC will do with proper dig use. Be sure to practice using both the front and rear dig.

My Question:

I have the LNC losi night crawler, it has no dig transmission. It does have WORM gears. Why does it not experience worm STALL? I put that thing against any rock or hill climb and never have to UNLOAD IT.

So it begs the question: If it is not WORM GEAR design why does the LCC stall? making for dig to be used to unload drive line?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:03 AM   #52
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hey everyone I have a question, everyone has been saying how It's best to disassemble the front and rear axles, and remove the extra shims, do I need to do this on my losi nightcrawler because I am a total noob to crawling and this is my first experience with worm gears so i dont know which are the shims to look for anyone have pics of theres they took out?
thanks
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:06 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by dflynt View Post
hey everyone I have a question, everyone has been saying how It's best to disassemble the front and rear axles, and remove the extra shims, do I need to do this on my losi nightcrawler because I am a total noob to crawling and this is my first experience with worm gears so i dont know which are the shims to look for anyone have pics of theres they took out?
thanks

You may, or may not need to remove shims. The shims everyone is talking about are the (spool shims), or the largest shims. There may be 1 or 2 on each side of the worm spool gear in each axle. You only need to remove a shim if the spool does not move freely. If you have 1 shim on each side and the spool moves side to side at all then put 2 on each side. If your axles arent getting super hot I wouldnt worry about it anyway.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:06 PM   #54
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ok cool thanks, i was just wondering becasue I have ran like 6 batteries through it and all of a sudden my back axle sounds a little bit louder like a little more grindier and i took them apart to check it and it looked ok but maybe I need to grease it up good cause i just found out that you need to keep them greased. probably will make a port like on this thread.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:18 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRCking View Post
My Question:

I have the LNC losi night crawler, it has no dig transmission. It does have WORM gears. Why does it not experience worm STALL? I put that thing against any rock or hill climb and never have to UNLOAD IT.

So it begs the question: If it is not WORM GEAR design why does the LCC stall? making for dig to be used to unload drive line?
This is great.

I never understood the worm stall thing. What I do understand though is motor stall... and gear ratios...
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:55 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRCking View Post
My Question:

I have the LNC losi night crawler, it has no dig transmission. It does have WORM gears. Why does it not experience worm STALL? I put that thing against any rock or hill climb and never have to UNLOAD IT.

So it begs the question: If it is not WORM GEAR design why does the LCC stall? making for dig to be used to unload drive line?
While I am not an expert nor do I own a LNC, but I do know that the transmission in the LNC and the LCC are not the same design or gearing and may have a lot to do with it.

What I have had happen to me with my LCC is more of a driveline bind between the front and the rear so the transmission is stuck in the middle of it all as well. It is not a matter of putting the rig itself into a binding spot but the driveline.
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:20 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by JPH Racing View Post

Lower Links Pop Off: (bottom, chassis side)
A quick fix for the bottom links popping off their balls, is to install a couple of o-rings. We used Team Associated #6507 O-rings. If you do this trick when servicing the axles (removing the shim and greasing) it will be much easier. Simply install two o-rings between the lower link balls and one on either side of the lower link balls. This will keep the lower links from popping off. (see Step C-03)
Do you have a link for "Team Associated #6507 O-ring", cause i can't find anything!

Does it exist a shock outboarding kit?

thanks
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:44 PM   #58
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Have the grease ports in the axels, is it possible to put one in the tranz? has anyone done this? Or do you just have to pull it.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:28 AM   #59
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thanks, this saved me alot of time!
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #60
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Is is necessary to grease the tranny regularly?
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