03-12-2010, 11:05 PM | #41 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.N.W.
Posts: 3
|
so while shopping at the hd tonight. i found in the plumbing aisle 1/4 od-1/8 id o-rings work just as well the red ae o-rings just a little fyi
|
Sponsored Links | |
03-17-2010, 07:47 PM | #42 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Hagerstown
Posts: 21
|
I trust the people here tooo. I would like to know what size pinion gear I should use , I just went through a gear today on my first little bit of crawl and it ius shot . I was using a 14 tooth 48 pinion gear . What should I be using ??? |
03-18-2010, 02:13 PM | #43 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mendo county
Posts: 6
| shim ?
can you show a pic. of a "shim". please thankyou.
|
04-02-2010, 01:35 AM | #44 | |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North Vancouver
Posts: 42
| keep trying Quote:
| |
04-06-2010, 09:18 PM | #45 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: around
Posts: 43
|
as too the o rings i used losi part #losa5420 shock o ring set, they work perfect and only have too use 3
|
04-21-2010, 01:20 AM | #46 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Spring
Posts: 5
| I run the rooster and a 45t novak motor (brushed) with a 2200mah 2s lipo and dont have any trouble. It works out quite well with a 14t pinion. not to much wheel speed and good crawling speed, no motor heat issues. |
04-25-2010, 10:45 AM | #47 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 23
|
ok folks I just picked up a LCC sn #5337 and per post 1 have tore this thing down. I have only taken the frontend apart and found there are no A6358 side shims on the worm gear. Is this correct? Maybe has Losi fixed this? Everything I have read on here says there should be at least 1 shim per side. Should I pick some up or just put it back together and break them in? Also I can not seem to get the drive shaft off of the front slip joint. I have taken the set screws off but just can not seem to get it to budge. Thank you for your replies. |
04-25-2010, 01:12 PM | #48 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: My Old Kentucky Home....
Posts: 659
|
There may be a little extra Loctite on the shaft end, have you tried gently wedging a screwdriver at the end? On your worms, is there any play at all side to side? The spool shouldn't be too tight but shouldn't be sloppy in the axle either. The shims are really thin though and may be stuck to the bearings. |
04-25-2010, 01:49 PM | #49 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 23
| Thank you silentcircus I appreciate you taking the time to help me . I finally got the drive shaft off with a lot of wedge from a screw driver. I do have some side to side play in the spool. But to be honest I think if there was a shim in both sides it would make it a tight fit. So I guess I am going to put it back together and hook it up to the drill. I appreciate your time and help. I drilled and tapped threads into the front pumpkin of the front axel for a grease access point. Then I used a allen head 8/32 x 1/8 plug to fill the hole. Looks pretty clean and sits flush
|
08-16-2010, 08:14 PM | #50 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stowe
Posts: 3,987
| Went to H D and got those o-rings they worked like a charm and only cost $1.95 an a pack did both the front and rear lowers.No more popping off for me. Thanks
|
08-25-2010, 12:26 AM | #51 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 69
| Things that make you go HMMM!
Quote from tips: Driving style: Use the DIG! Watch the Bind! (Worm Stall) With the LCC, the worm drives can create something we call "Worm Stall". Basically, when climbing, the front and rear axles can get out of sync and actually bind up the drive train. If the driver continues to apply throttle, motor over heating will occur. It's possible to permanently damage the motor and ESC. One way to help overcome this is with the proper motor and gearing. The 2nd way to overcome this is by using the dig. By using the dig as soon as you feel the worm stall occur, it will unload the bind and allow the LCC to continue forward progress. All you need to do is engage the dig, blip the throttle, and then disengage the dig back into 4WD. Sometimes, it's necessary to do this a few times when bound out really bad. With practice, using the dig will become second nature. You'll be amazed at what the LCC will do with proper dig use. Be sure to practice using both the front and rear dig. My Question: I have the LNC losi night crawler, it has no dig transmission. It does have WORM gears. Why does it not experience worm STALL? I put that thing against any rock or hill climb and never have to UNLOAD IT. So it begs the question: If it is not WORM GEAR design why does the LCC stall? making for dig to be used to unload drive line? |
09-03-2010, 08:03 AM | #52 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Denver
Posts: 11
|
hey everyone I have a question, everyone has been saying how It's best to disassemble the front and rear axles, and remove the extra shims, do I need to do this on my losi nightcrawler because I am a total noob to crawling and this is my first experience with worm gears so i dont know which are the shims to look for anyone have pics of theres they took out? thanks |
09-03-2010, 06:06 PM | #53 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Earth?
Posts: 1,698
| Quote:
You may, or may not need to remove shims. The shims everyone is talking about are the (spool shims), or the largest shims. There may be 1 or 2 on each side of the worm spool gear in each axle. You only need to remove a shim if the spool does not move freely. If you have 1 shim on each side and the spool moves side to side at all then put 2 on each side. If your axles arent getting super hot I wouldnt worry about it anyway. | |
09-03-2010, 10:06 PM | #54 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Denver
Posts: 11
|
ok cool thanks, i was just wondering becasue I have ran like 6 batteries through it and all of a sudden my back axle sounds a little bit louder like a little more grindier and i took them apart to check it and it looked ok but maybe I need to grease it up good cause i just found out that you need to keep them greased. probably will make a port like on this thread.
|
09-03-2010, 10:18 PM | #55 | |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
| Quote:
I never understood the worm stall thing. What I do understand though is motor stall... and gear ratios... | |
09-04-2010, 12:55 AM | #56 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Phoenix
Posts: 224
| Quote:
What I have had happen to me with my LCC is more of a driveline bind between the front and the rear so the transmission is stuck in the middle of it all as well. It is not a matter of putting the rig itself into a binding spot but the driveline. | |
09-06-2010, 02:20 PM | #57 | |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Aquitaine (Fr)
Posts: 11
| Quote:
Does it exist a shock outboarding kit? thanks | |
09-29-2010, 09:44 PM | #58 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stowe
Posts: 3,987
|
Have the grease ports in the axels, is it possible to put one in the tranz? has anyone done this? Or do you just have to pull it.
|
10-03-2010, 11:28 AM | #59 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: olympia
Posts: 6
| cool
thanks, this saved me alot of time! |
12-01-2010, 06:20 PM | #60 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Dalton
Posts: 48
|
Is is necessary to grease the tranny regularly?
|
| |