LCC Tips and Tricks

[Jslick]

thought it might quiet it down, mine is louder than the worms. I also have the LNC shafts not the LCC.

[GASMOKEDIVER732]

Has anyone put a grease fitting on the tranny?

[T/C Hunter]

Originally Posted by GASMOKEDIVER732

Has anyone put a grease fitting on the tranny?

Thinking of the same thing. Might work pretty well, but I will go with tapping out a small fill hole and plugging it with a Small Allen screw .

[Toyo496]

I have drilled a small hole in the top of the case right behind the factory dig location, inline with the small gear on the top shaft. I shoot silicone spray down the hole on that gear while running it forward/reverse. In my opinion it helps the gears mesh together better, as well as the shift forks slide smoothly on the dig plates. I keep a super small set screw in there when not in use. I really think it freed up some power and made my drive train that more silky smooth.

[T/C Hunter]

I pulled my Tranny apart and put some light weight grease inside all around the dig forks so they side better , and on the teeth of all the gears. I will also spray some H.D silicon in there if needed later on after I see how everything works first. Everything is all set and ready to go , just waiting for ESC/ Motor combo replacement from Horizon. Should be here next week some time. Great Customer service . I just wish I had better luck getting stuff that works the first time .

[rooktakesqueen]

I like this idea....I'm going to try it out

Originally Posted by Toyo496

I have drilled a small hole in the top of the case right behind the factory dig location, inline with the small gear on the top shaft. I shoot silicone spray down the hole on that gear while running it forward/reverse. In my opinion it helps the gears mesh together better, as well as the shift forks slide smoothly on the dig plates. I keep a super small set screw in there when not in use. I really think it freed up some power and made my drive train that more silky smooth.

[SIK_BOY]

hey everyone. i just read through this whole thread, its a full year of tips on the lcc!
LOL
Im gonna be opening the box on a lnc here pretty soon and was wondering if some or all tips and triccks are to paid as equal attention with factory set up out of the box lnc?
There are a few hits towards the lnc on the thread but none that i thought to be a solid answer.
Thanks ahead for the info!
Merry X Mas!

[T/C Hunter]

I drilled the axle housings and plugged the holes with a small allen headed screw .{make sure the screw does not touch any teeth on the drive gears inside the housing} I also checked the shims and found that the factory set up is perfect, so I left mine as is.I have mine set up so there is no forward or backward play in my worm gears . But loose enough to be friction free. Same with the drive gear. No side to side movement and factory shim set up was perfect once again. I also pulled the tranny apart and greased the shift forks and all the gears and shafts. The most important thing I found to have silky smooth drive axles was to not over tighten the 2 halfs when re-assembling . I also greased the drive shafts , everything that pivots or slides, I applied a small amount of grease to it. CVD's have been greased and it looks like I have the newer Factory H.D V3 CVD's. I mounted a upper battery tray on the top rails for my Larger 2200 mAh Turnigy 3S Lipos . Plus I can also use the lower mount for the smaller 1300 mAh 3S Turnigy Nano Packs . Everything runs very smooth & cool running . I will do a short Video soon to put on you Tube. Oh I also installed a Digital Battery monitor unit on the rear axle tray. Very nice touch to keep a eye on Battery voltage while driving. This rig is Awesome !

[tpworld]

Hey guys farely new to crawling and forums but not to Rc or competition. Just finished eliminating some unecessary weight from the frame. As you can see from pics I dremeled out the cross braces on the frame, the front mounting ears for the front elect. tray, and the top middle frame brace on the motor side which I felt was not needed for support. I also eliminated the long frame stiffeners and moved the short ones from the shock mounting holes, which I thought slowed the process of changing locations quickly, to the top shock pivot location. This made it easier to change shock location, and lowered the cog of the stiffeners!! You never have to move them for any adjustment and now you dont have to hold a nut to loosen for shock arm position!! I also in eliminating the electr. trays and repositioning the battery on the upper links as well as the receiver and bec on the upper links in back on a thin piece of lexan from a body, in total with everything done, got rid of a total of 2.2oz from the LCC all of which were at or above the vehicles COG. It made a big difference on inclines and side crawls. Big difference!!http://img155.imageshack.us/i/p1013202.jpg/
http://img132.imageshack.us/i/p1013199.jpg/
http://img26.imageshack.us/i/p1013198.jpg/
http://img193.imageshack.us/i/p1013197.jpg/

[Erik D_lux]

Typed this out in PM so I thought I would post it here incase it helps...


As you found, the worms are probably the biggest problem. If youre running them (chromoly) now, it will only wear in and get better over time.

Whatever motor/esc you run make sure you DO NOT run a 14mm rotor. I also try to stay under 21 turns but there is a lot of preference in there.

Lube EVERYTHING! Obviously lube your worms but it really helps if you lube your driveshafts, axle shafts and transmission. One of the most important parts is the transmission. I have found a lot of drag where the dig forks ride. I have drilled holes in the transmission right above the dig plates. I put the car in dig and stick a syringe in there and fill it up. I carry that syringe around with me and lube everything pretty regularly.

Raise your rear, upper links at the axle. There can be a lot of driveshaft binding along with axle hop since there is not enough vertical separation at the axle. You can buy Losi's upgraded axle mount LOSA1036 to solve the problem, or simply put some spacers under your stock one.

Hex pins can be a problem. If they are, I suggest either my chromo pins in the standard size or better yet the big hex pins. Nobody has broke a big hex pin to date.

No matter the motor you put in its going to create a lot of heat. If you want to protect that motor, get a fan. I got the Castle fan and it works very, very well.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...ower-cm36.html

I hope that helps. Thats all I can think of but I consider all of that necessary to make the Losi run well.

Erik

[LCC4TWENTY]

drilling the holes in the diff is a great idea. if u havnt done it yet u should. makes it so much eaisier to grease when it needs it

[flizz]

Anybody have a pic of the location for the tranny lube port ?

[Jslick]

DLUX does somewhere.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by flizz

Anybody have a pic of the location for the tranny lube port ?

[concretejungle]

I decided to copy Erik.... kind of

Since most of his ideas seem sound, this one also seems like a no-brainer! But, since i still run my dig on top of my trans and i didn't want to remove it every time to grease the trans, i decided to put the grease ports on the side.

I took the trans apart to make sure i wasn't hitting any gears with the plugs. I have a can of amsoil silicon spray that i use. It doesn't smell and works great. I just stick the little straw into the ports and give a quick spray. Works great and keeps everything quiet and smooth.

[Weasel]

I didn't find this information anywhere in my searching for what sizes of wrenches are need for the LCC (stock). Maybe it will save someone some research time:

Hex or Allen style wrench: 0.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32" & 2mm
Nut Driver style wrench: 3/16", 1/4" & 5mm, 7mm - these are recommended by the Losi book

[minnesotamudder]

ok when yo say traxxas titan, is that the 12t or the 21t, im puting a 12t in it, so ill see how it works.

[slappomatt]

Pretty sure most people are talking about the 21t Titan 550 motor.

Thanks so much for the wrench size info!

[sideshowbob]

hello
ive read everything , but cannot find a picture or location for the axle grease hole?

has anyone tried sealing the axle and running the gears in a bath of motor oil instead of grease?

im finding the high compression of the worm system tends to move the grease off the contact areas and i was hoping an oil bath system would resolve that and take away some heat at the same time ? grease is a thermal insulator and i would like some kind of oil bath or even the extent of an oil cooler?
if the holes were in the right place the worm would act as a low pressure oil pump and could feed a circuit of oil through some silicone lines maybe an oil cooler rad and then back into the axle???
these are only ideas please try not to rip the piss out of me , just kindly tell me why it would or wouldnt work or if anyones tried it
cheers
bob

[ghtpdm5]

not gonna rip ya sideshow, thought about the same thing while i was sitting in the tractor one day. problem lies in the sealing of the diff, and with an oil cooler, you're not going to have enough airflow to make a difference. with a fan, i think the oil would cool too much, become too viscous and then not want to flow properly.

the grease you use in the diff's make a huge difference in the performance and heat build-up. you want to use something made for sliding metal friction, which is exactly what you face in the worm system. i used grease for the end of the bar of a chainsaw for about a year, made to combat the friction you see there. that worked well, but nowhere near as well as the john deere heavy-duty moly grease i use currently. the hd moly is specifically designed for sliding metal friction, i've used it on combine harvesters for a long time, and if it does its job great on a $250,000 machine, i have no problem using it in my crawler.

if you wanted to run an oil bath setup, i would first try a thin grease that goes to a gear oil consistency when worked. john deere special purpose corn head grease is designed to do that, its made for low speed 90 deg pinion gear setups. starts as a grease bath and then after a short go, it turns to a gear oil, but only in the places its worked, meaning that it would form a small buffer zone around the bearings.