Eyeball Engineering

[Duuuuuuuude]

Spindle speed and control has always been the most frustrating thing with this thing. When it bogs down for whatever reason it's almost always a cascade into a complete stall and tool breakage and/or missed steps. Unless I spend a bunch of $$$ on a bigger and better spindle and controller, I'm just going to have to live with it.

Or I could do like this guy. RC parts ftw!

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Spindle speed and control has always been the most frustrating thing with this thing. When it bogs down for whatever reason it's almost always a cascade into a complete stall and tool breakage and/or missed steps. Unless I spend a bunch of $$$ on a bigger and better spindle and controller, I'm just going to have to live with it.

Or I could do like this guy. RC parts ftw!

Thats one thing that made me happy with going the brushless route. I know couple other people who have the DC motors and have replaced the brushes and motors a few times already. But for 30$ a pop on ebay they say its worth it.

I smoked the threads on my original spindle a few months back (over tightening the collet) and switched to the spare 220v 800w one I had. The original one was just a 110v 800w, both spun 24000 but the original was powered off an inverter in the control box.

After switching over I could hear the difference, so much smoother spin up and a nice humm from the 220v one with its own vfd inverter. Plus now I can control the hz/rpm much better which helped get a good feel for my speeds.

My only problem now is keeping controller boards from smoking. Thinking I got to much cf dust in the last case and shorted it out the other night, lost my Z control. But thats my next upgrade - encased case with better controllers.

[JohnRobHolmes]

In regards to cutting/ feed speeds, the Mazak taught me the importance of surface speed (lathe) and tool tip speed (mill, drill ) combined with depth of cut per rev. Using those as a start point will (almost) always yield the same results on the same setup. Between machines or brand/shape of tools, rigidity and coolant will change what is appropriate.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Or I could do like this guy. RC parts ftw!

What size motor would you need though? I assume something big enough would be almost as much as a feedback controlled spindle motor and controller would be for the whole setup.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

What size motor would you need though? I assume something big enough would be almost as much as a feedback controlled spindle motor and controller would be for the whole setup.

He said he got it all from hobby king. A quick breeze through showed a 600 series heli motor and esc for under $100. Esc controller was another $40ish. Forgot to look for a 6s battery, but I'd guesstimate that at around $50-60.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Add in the cost to make bracketry and quality power supply, and it evens back out. The larger size of standard systems give them more robustness against overheating , and they are sealed better against contamination. I didn't mount an outrunner on my taig because of the cost of good power supply. Running off a battery just doesn't work for me.

[monkeyracer]

24V power supplies that can handle the amount of current needed (100A+?) for this motor aren't cheap. I wouldn't be able to deal with the annoyance of a battery to power my spindle.

[C*H*U*D]

I don't like wearing out just the tips of my endmills, so I run full depth whenever possible and adjust accordingly.

I also use stub length endmills as much as I can. Shanks are much stiffer than flutes.

[JohnRobHolmes]

.005" depth on a 1/16" bit is practically full depth cuts

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

.005" depth on a 1/16" bit is practically full depth cuts

You must have a different supplier for endmills

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

24V power supplies that can handle the amount of current needed (100A+?) for this motor aren't cheap. I wouldn't be able to deal with the annoyance of a battery to power my spindle.

I was just gonna grab the ol' deep cycles off of my fishin' boat, but you do what you want.

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

24V power supplies that can handle the amount of current needed (100A+?) for this motor aren't cheap. I wouldn't be able to deal with the annoyance of a battery to power my spindle.

Series/parallel up a couple server power supplies. Not exactly UL approved, but it works.


I would bet you could make a 24v 100+A for ~$150.


Just remember to isolate them from each other.

Exhibit A
https://www.maxamps.com/24v-maxamps-...pply-47a-1150w

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

You must have a different supplier for endmills

even worse, I can't read a calculator properly :lol

[Duuuuuuuude]

Hey Duuuuuuuude, is that steel you're machining?


Why yes, that is steel that I'm machining. But at .001" doc@20ipm, I'm not going to be machining much of it.

[XSRCdesign]

I wish that was a more feasible option.. I would love to be able to make my own tabs and stuff for home

[Duuuuuuuude]

I'm thinking it might do better with a smaller endmill. 1/8" through anything other than plastic or wood really works it pretty hard. I'll probably try that soon. Like you, it would be a big advantage if I could cut small steel parts.

[XSRCdesign]

That would be awesome

[Duuuuuuuude]

Just ran another part with the 1/16 endmill. .002"doc and started the feed at 25 ipm and slowly ramped it up. Finished the part running 42 ipm with no issues. Easy peasy.


It took 5 minutes to run the single part. I can live with that.

[XSRCdesign]

That's not horrible for personal use...

[Duuuuuuuude]

Certainly not production worthy, but for little bits and whatnot for a build? Hell yeah. I doubt you could hand form them as quickly and consistently.



This changes things. I'm excited.