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Old 10-15-2013, 08:07 PM   #1
No idea what I'm doing
 
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Default C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

I've been working on this for awhile, but never thought about documenting it until now.

Before I start, here are a few disclaimers:

1. This is not a "How to build a better printer" thread. There's tons of information out there...just search and read...A LOT.

2. This project started because I had some spare time at work, and a bunch of material. Much of this design is to make use of the material and parts I had on hand. I will reference this statement often, when people comment and tell me better ways of doing things. Much of this design is based on what I had available at the time.


So let's get started:

I found this thread one day during lunch. I have access to our 3D printer at work, but thought it would be fun to build one for home:

Solidworks files for 3D printer

This is what you get:



Seemed simple enough, so I got to work. We've had 2 pieces of 1" X 2' X 4' white Delrin in the shop for a few years, so I decided to start with the small pieces first.

Cost: Free



The first problem I found was that the Solidworks model is Metric. Not a big deal, but Metric is terribly expensive for me, so I decided to convert everything to standard. I ordered up some 5/16 - 18 allthread and nuts to go with it. I forget the prices, but it's less than $2 per section and less than $10 for a box of nuts.

Cost: $34




Last edited by C*H*U*D; 10-16-2013 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:25 PM   #2
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Default Re: C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

Kewl. Ill stay tuned.

ORK
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:39 PM   #3
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Nice work! Subscribed.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:09 PM   #4
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Subscribed

Nice start.
Since its a metric design....I am sure you have factorised the timing belt length and the pitch between the timing pulleys in your work. I am not sure, about the timing belt standards used in US.

And I love your Tormach cnc.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:16 PM   #5
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Man you build some cool toys
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:10 PM   #6
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Default Re: C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

I didn't like all the nuts required to get the frame square. Whenever I took this apart and reassembled it, it took forever to get things back to the way they were.

The first thing I did was make up these spanners to set the width. We had this hard anodized aluminum on the rack, so I turned three pieces down to 9.25" and then drilled and tapped for bolts we had on hand:

Cost: Free



I also didn't like the nuts used to adjust the side triangles, so I got this 5/8" aluminum tubing from the hardware store. It's a low grade aluminum, but it's not structural...it just sets the distance between the three corners. I turned them all down on the lathe to 290mm

Cost: $14



The frame is much more square now. I can put it together on our granite block, tighten all the nuts and nothing rocks or tips. It's also much easier to take apart and reassemble. I told my cat about all the benefits, and she lifted her leg and farted in it's general direction.

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Old 10-16-2013, 10:16 PM   #7
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Default Re: C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
I didn't like all the nuts required to get the frame square. Whenever I took this apart and reassembled it, it took forever to get things back to the way they were.

The first thing I did was make up these spanners to set the width. We had this hard anodized aluminum on the rack, so I turned three pieces down to 9.25" and then drilled and tapped for bolts we had on hand:

Cost: Free



I also didn't like the nuts used to adjust the side triangles, so I got this 5/8" aluminum tubing from the hardware store. It's a low grade aluminum, but it's not structural...it just sets the distance between the three corners. I turned them all down on the lathe to 290mm

Cost: $14



The frame is much more square now. I can put it together on our granite block, tighten all the nuts and nothing rocks or tips. It's also much easier to take apart and reassemble. I told my cat about all the benefits, and she lifted her leg and farted in it's general direction.



Are those pics before or after turning the diameters? I'm trying to figure out why the surfaces look untouched. looking great so far

I though the cat was getting ready to lick ittself and just say "mmm hhmm that's nice"
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:17 PM   #8
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In thanks!


J/k!


Love it! Keep going!
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhugger View Post
Are those pics before or after turning the diameters? I'm trying to figure out why the surfaces look untouched. looking great so far

I though the cat was getting ready to lick it's balls and just say 'mmm hhmm that's nice"
I never turned the diameters...just the lengths. It was important to have them all the same length, so that's why I used the lathe.

No balls...he's a she
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:20 PM   #10
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Good job on replacing the threaded rods.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #11
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Default Re: C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

oops, I miss understood the operation, I didn't even think about the numbers you gave. thanks for clarifying.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wings_of_fire View Post
Good job on replacing the threaded rods.
The threaded rod is still there. It's just covered by the 5/8" aluminum. The aluminum just sets the distance, but the threaded rod is still used to tighten everything together.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
The threaded rod is still there. It's just covered by the 5/8" aluminum. The aluminum just sets the distance, but the threaded rod is still used to tighten everything together.
Ahh..The solid aluminium rods that you drilled and tapped went into the 3 horizontal peaks of the traingle. This confused me.. and actually I am mulitasking right now with the stock market open. Kind of made a silly mistake of understanding.
And you removed the inner washers + nuts and replaced them with the 290mm pipe. The pipe does the job for the inner nuts and washers

Last edited by wings_of_fire; 10-16-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wings_of_fire View Post
Ahh..The solid aluminium rods that you drilled and tapped went into the 3 horizontal peaks of the traingle. This confused me.. and actually I am mulitasking right now with the stock market open. Kind of made a silly mistake of understanding.
And you removed the inner washers + nuts and replaced them with the 290mm pipe. The pipe does the job for the inner nuts and washers
Correct
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #15
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Kittah wants to know how this mouse trap works......
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:23 PM   #16
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The next thing I wanted to get going was the Y-Axis.

We had this 3/8" stainless rod at work. This is where I really started to stray from the Solidworks model that I downloaded. Once I chose to use these rods, all of the Metric dimensions were gone (more of that to come later):

Cost: Free



I machined these parts from the white Delrin we had laying around:

Cost: Free



I didn't like all the nuts that were required to align these rods in the original model. I had a lot of the aluminum tube left over from the sides, so I turned some more down on the lathe. Everything is biased to the left side:

Cost: Already paid for



My cat Roxie was of course on hand to help me out with putting it together. She likes Dale's Pale Ale and Five Finger Death Punch while she's working:

Cat Labor: Free

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Old 10-21-2013, 01:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSki View Post


Kittah wants to know how this mouse trap works......
Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post

My cat Roxie was of course on hand to help me out with putting it together. She likes Dale's Pale Ale and Five Finger Death Punch while she's working:

Cat Labor: Free



If you keep telling her it's a mouse trap, Cat labor will continue to be free. print me a mouse.

Anyyway, I could go on with the cat thought humor...

So have you ordered the print heads or whatever they might be called?

This is looking very clean

Last edited by rockhugger; 10-21-2013 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:07 AM   #18
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Any idea of what kind of ballpark cost this will be? I assume the majority of the cost will come from the motors and electronics stuff, just curious if you have a dollar value your shooting for.

I just got quoted 9k for a 5" cube sized printer, which I thought was a decent price, so I'll be watching this. I'd like to have one for my garage.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhugger View Post

So have you ordered the print heads or whatever they might be called?
I'll be ordering the hot end soon. I really wanted to make one, but for the money I might possibly save, the time isn't worth it. Plus I'd have one that I already know works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgh117 View Post
Any idea of what kind of ballpark cost this will be? I assume the majority of the cost will come from the motors and electronics stuff, just curious if you have a dollar value your shooting for.

I just got quoted 9k for a 5" cube sized printer, which I thought was a decent price, so I'll be watching this. I'd like to have one for my garage.
I was actually shooting for under $500. My boss is pretty good about letting me have any unwanted items that we have laying around...I'm not sure how much it would be if I had to buy everything or pay for material. I'm writing down the costs of things as I go so I can keep track of the total.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:54 AM   #20
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Default Re: C*H*U*D's 3D Printer

You currently have your own mill, right? What do you plan on printing?
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