SMW Shop / My NEW Hobby

[rob_b]

I have to keep telling myself "You have to spend money to make money."

[roksloski]

Originally Posted by rob_b

I have to keep telling myself "You have to spend money to make money."

that saying is Very True....

wheels look great...........

[BigSki]

.. you just have to keep in mind the "line" between diminished returns.

[travis c.]

Show us what they look like with scale hardware!

[rob_b]

Was waiting on hardware to finalize the rings so this is all I can show you at the moment...

[travis c.]

Sexy!

[BigSki]

Just curious about the type of wrench used to install the scale hardware.

[rob_b]

Got the driver from the same place as the hardware...

http://www.lockeduprc.com/Tools_c_17.html

[rob_b]

Managed to get a fixture whipped up today for cutting 8 rings at once. I'll tape a 12"x6" piece of Delrin to the plate, cut all the holes and ID's then pause the program to install some clamps, finally cutting the OD's. Computer estimates 45min run time but I don't have any material to find out! The plate is 1" Mic6 and the "washers" were saw cut from 2" 6061 and turned across the contact area.

[JohnRobHolmes]

sweet little jig! Any specific reason you spaced the parts out that far?

[rob_b]

Figured it uses the same amount of material regardless as plate is super wasteful compared to a bar fed machine such as yours. I'm just trying to reduce tool changes over the run and work within the limits of the mill.

[Etype R]

Interested to see how that setup works out for you. Rings are something I have decided to leave alone for the time being, because of how thin they are.

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Etype R

Interested to see how that setup works out for you. Rings are something I have decided to leave alone for the time being, because of how thin they are.

If you use some good double sided tape and clean your surfaces good it isn't that hard to do. What may work would be to water-jet the rings out and then drill the holes and mill then OD/OD as 'stack' if you will.

[rob_b]

I've had good luck with double sided tape in the past as long as you have enough surface area to keep a good grip and is one reason to space the parts out so far. I used a similar process when I did the 7075 faces/rings for my 1.9 wheels. Only it used (6) 4-40 screws to clamp through the holes which turned into a tedious process. Especially doing only one ring at a time. This fixture will use the same basic principles but has much less handling and I can use my cordless impact to drive each 1/4-20. Tried the waterjet/mill approach on some other parts and found it easier/better to just do the whole thing on the mill.

[Etype R]

The one time I tried tape, I went insane pealing it off of every single part... Maybe I need to try some other brands.

[rob_b]

I originally found some great double sided tape at McFadden-Dale in Phoenix. But then I ran out and need some asap. I tried this Peachtree brand tape from Amazon and I'm pretty sure it is the same stuff. Goes on easy, comes off easily, leaves no residue but holds like crazy.

[SkaldidDog]

PM sent.

J

[rob_b]

To me? It didn't come through...

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by rob_b

To me? It didn't come through...

One more try.

J

[Crawling Calvin]

I won't say the brand of tape that we use at our shop BUT I will give a few tips:
Palmolive works AMAZING at cleaning parts off clean parts = good adhesion!
Denatured alcohol works wonders at releasing the tape as well as prep before taping.
We use acrylic tables and set our work "0" location off the top of the tape so you have a few thousandths safety room not to smash into the table.
Lastly bead blasting a surface pre-cleaning can REALLY help improve the stick too