MIP ..... Twin Hammers Thread

[lazynocturnal]

Originally Posted by DISTURBIN' tha PEACE

Hi Matt, as you know, the rear shaft will be pretty easy for you to pump out. The front outdrives are a point of concern. Would it be possible to have a 1-piece spool made? I think more of us are concentrating on making these crawlers first & less pieces in the diff is always better.

Not sure the difference between CVD & CVA, but they sure look like every other CVD I've seen. If you do decide to make these, maybe you could design them around a new 1-piece front spool. No need for outdrives, just have CVD's on both sides with a slide shaft. Also, I'd say they need to have 50* of throw.

Another thing this is screaming for are hardened transmission gears, all of them.

Thanks! Money is burning a hole in my wallet.

As some one else already has shown a quick modd on the Wraith drive shaft will work. It just sucks that we have to by 2 to use only 1. I had a buddy at the hobby shop that has a TH and we split the cost of a pair. So if we can get a single rear that would bolt on would be great!

I have not had a problem with my front end (yet) but like the guy I quoted, it would be awsome to get a setup like this. I would like to see the dog bones go away... along with the front center drive shaft.

I wonder if the MIP drive shaft for the AX10 with dig would work for the front center shaft???

[OLI972]

yes, ful my TH with MIP please

[Erin]

Wouldnt the front axles need to telescope due to the ifs? Thats that main reason for the dog bone end, so it can move in and out as suspension cycles.

[nicholask1993]

My rear driveshaft is getting ready to bite the bust on my overpowered stock setup :p

Steel idler gears would also be a nice addition!

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by badhoopty

outdrives up front for sure.

please dont do the weird rounded edge hexes with the recessed slot running around them that are on the slash 4x4 keyed axles. those are horrible.

Ya those hexes have been fixed correctly No more probelmos lol

Originally Posted by DISTURBIN' tha PEACE

Hi Matt, as you know, the rear shaft will be pretty easy for you to pump out. The front outdrives are a point of concern. Would it be possible to have a 1-piece spool made? I think more of us are concentrating on making these crawlers first & less pieces in the diff is always better.

Not sure the difference between CVD & CVA, but they sure look like every other CVD I've seen. If you do decide to make these, maybe you could design them around a new 1-piece front spool. No need for outdrives, just have CVD's on both sides with a slide shaft. Also, I'd say they need to have 50* of throw.

Another thing this is screaming for are hardened transmission gears, all of them.

Thanks! Money is burning a hole in my wallet.

Thanks for the Input man. Great advice and I'll keep everything in mind once the project starts. Also for you question on CVD vs. CVA:

CVD- Was originally created by Eustace Moore of MIP. It has a cup on the shaft and then an axle with a ball fits into it.

CVA- Came after the CVD and its basically a reverse version. Axle with cup and bone with ball to connect to it.

Originally Posted by bashin calfee

Need outdrives and for sure and i done broke 2 sets of front axles snapped the dog bones rite off

If we did outdrives we'd most likely do bones as well so that the metal hardnesses are correct for one another.

Originally Posted by lazynocturnal

I wonder if the MIP drive shaft for the AX10 with dig would work for the front center shaft???

Ya we would most likely come out with just a rear shaft to start since we have basically all the needed parts. Just need to make an output.

Also I don't believe that the AX10 Dig shaft would work it has a much shorter male bone as well as a regular output not the extended one that is featured in the picture. But I have not measured it up lol.

Originally Posted by nicholask1993

My rear driveshaft is getting ready to bite the bust on my overpowered stock setup :p

Steel idler gears would also be a nice addition!

haha man, ya we will start working on the project once we get a kit in. And we will look into all fashions of the project.



Again thank you guys for all the comments and keep them coming! I have not been able to handle one of the cars yet so what I can see from photos is the only knowledge I have.

[Kzzican]

Can i preorder a complete set yet? Put me down for a front and rear MIP set.

I would like dog bones on the front as it is less rotating mass but am willing to sacrifice a few ounces to get reliability of a XCvd. My one issue with the stock fronts is that the suspension throw is limited by the dog bones being stopped by hitting the cup and not by the shocks, It would be nice to get articulation of the front to move another 1/4" to 1/2" which will allow me to use longer shocks and limit throw by my shock choice. I think front splined CVD or CVA would fix this issue and be a quality upgrade.

[Doc Harley]

If it moves it can use your help,thanks...Doc

[Tbuck]

Definitely in for MIP!

[SStone]

I want to see some splined, telescoping front CV's.

[Jay-Em]

Hmm..lessee...

I haven't broken anything (yet). Mainly due to the fact that my TH is quite mildly powered with a 3400kv 10t stockspec LRP. And I am no fan of using 3s on that.
Still. I see the rear center drive axle break when overpowered. The "neck" before the ball-bit is rather thin, compared to most cvd's. Coupled with a locked diff, the plastic middle-section will also, eventually warp, me thinks.

The standard Front cvd's wíll most certainly be problematic with a locked front.

Hardened front cvd's with a standard pin for the hexes would also be nice. Vaterra uses a slightly thinner pin for the hexes, and, while I haven't broken pins, they áre showing something like a "z"- bend to them.

Full cvd's / sliders(i.e. no dog-bones) for the front would also very nice.

Also, the plastic gears seem to be a tad weak. I noticed that quite a few people chipped teeth on the plastic gears, especially the idler.

So, I'd say You should tear into the gear-box too, to see what can be improved there. Maybe a spring-loaded shift rod? Can easily be made by oneself, but could also be a convenient, cheap little Hop-up? Shifting is eating quite a few servo's here&there.

Just throwin' out some ideas here.

[bashin calfee]

Splined teleys for me too!

[Soulo747]

The "neck" before the ball-bit is rather thin

Thats right where mine sheared off.....

[iluvdrt]

While i havent broken anything yet, i just upgraded to a AE2 speed control, Brood stump humper, and will be running a 3s lipo. Im sure things will start shredding soon, especially since the front is locked with a spool. I am trying to make this thing bomb proof and would be happy to purchase any upgraded parts from MIP. you guys have always had great products!

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by Kzzican

Can i preorder a complete set yet? Put me down for a front and rear MIP set.

I would like dog bones on the front as it is less rotating mass but am willing to sacrifice a few ounces to get reliability of a XCvd. My one issue with the stock fronts is that the suspension throw is limited by the dog bones being stopped by hitting the cup and not by the shocks, It would be nice to get articulation of the front to move another 1/4" to 1/2" which will allow me to use longer shocks and limit throw by my shock choice. I think front splined CVD or CVA would fix this issue and be a quality upgrade.

Originally Posted by SStone

I want to see some splined, telescoping front CV's.

Originally Posted by bashin calfee

Splined teleys for me too!

Splined front CV's seems to be the consensus .

We will be ordering one next week to start looking into everything. Another question. From what I can see the front center shaft doesn't need to telescope correct? How is the wear on the front center shaft? I'm sure its of the same material as the front drives but definitely wont take as much damage.

[Soulo747]

Correct. Front center does NOT telescope. No travel going on there, but a bitch to get to and work on

Wear is substantial just like on the cups in the front knuckles, very soft.

[ProjectSCX10]

MIP FOR ME ALL AROUND PLEASEEEEE!!!!!! Rear driver shaft! Front shaft! Front inout and out put cups! Front whatevers you guys make!

[Frakke]

whatever u gonna make, be prepared to send a package over to Belgium

[Blue Monkey RC]

Hi Matt, love your products.

BMRC is developing longer trailing arms for the TH. I can already tell the longer WB is going to be a very popular upgrade. We have had several customers who already did the conversion say the longer WB is noticeably superior.

What are the chances you can make a +1" longer rear shaft?

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by Blue Monkey RC

Hi Matt, love your products.

BMRC is developing longer trailing arms for the TH. I can already tell the longer WB is going to be a very popular upgrade. We have had several customers who already did the conversion say the longer WB is noticeably superior.

What are the chances you can make a +1" longer rear shaft?

Thank you man! And awesome it'd be cool to see what you guys come out with! We do have a bone that is a tad longer than the wraith one. Its measures up at 4.10 and the wraith one is 2.67 so thats a little under 1.5 inches. There could be some other parts we could used to shave that down a tad may need to get one of those kits in here to measure some stuff up. I'll PM you about how it would work for a bone/package made for BMRC.

[elsewhere]

Ok so splined front cvds.
I'm down with those like a fat kid does cake..
My question is:
What about us speed junkies who run putty in their front diffs?
Any chance for some little outputs to replace the factory output cups and
still run the factory diff with the splined shafts???

Gears have been mentioned, ill 2nd that..
As well as perhaps a larger pin for the axles...

Oh and I run an mmp and a murfdogg 17.5 on 4s.
I'm ready to break stuff..