New Vaterra Twin Hammers KIT

[inpuressa]

Installed my old tekin RS and a redline 13.5 I had lying around. Powered with my nanotech lipo, I took a test run in my living room(still clean lol). So much power that it wheelies in high gear. The spare tire acts as a wheelie bar. I'm sure it's not as bad on dirt, but I think I have enough power here

[grimacium]

Just got my kit! I was one of the hold outs and nearly caved on an RTR before the kit news. I wasn't expecting a color printed book for instructions.

[OSRC]

Looks great! Really liking the body panels - looks so much cleaner w/o the lights.

Just ordered the tires for mine. Good deal for what they are.

[inpuressa]

Had a blast running the rig
I was also seeking out the Yeti, but the size is just right for me on the TH.

There are some build tips that I have:
1. The shock collars, the oring that sits in them are way too tight. So tight that I can break loose the top hat on the shock body. You can either find another oring that is thinner, or carefully snip the outer edge of the oring so that it can sit deeper in the groove. Now the collar feels just right.

2. I need clarification on this, but the RTR TH doesn't have a servo saver built in to the shift mechanism? The kit ones does though. Some adjustment needed here too. The saver sits too deep onto the splines, and the outer edge contacts the case. This separates the two halves of the saver, thus making unnecessary slop and binding. btw, this is using the hitec MG225 servo. First off, I converted the servo to accept 3mm screws instead of the 2.5 that hitec uses. It needs a fairly long screw, and I just did not have a 2.5mm that long. Bored it out a little, and tapped it. Then I added about 0.4mm of 3mm shims onto the spline to raise the entire saver up away from the servo case. No slop now

Also if you feel that the spring tension is too loose, just add some 5mm shims inside so it compresses the spring a little more. I added about 0.6mm

3. I mentioned this before, but the dog bone ball cup on the shifter linkage rubbed the spur gear cover, causing inconsistent shifting. I just carved the ball cup a little flat to clear the cover, money

4.the front suspension components might have some binding. Make sure they move freely on their own weight. The ball cups have no issues, but particularly the inner and outer hinge pin areas had binding. THis could be one of the reasons for the reported excessive stiffness of the front suspension.

In all, it was a fun build, and glad that I waited for it.

[BJoe]

Do you think that servo saver for the trans will fit a Comp Crawler?

Smoked a few of those dig servos in mine....

[inpuressa]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Do you think that servo saver for the trans will fit a Comp Crawler?

Smoked a few of those dig servos in mine....

It comes with the three major spline types so i don't see why it won't work. But I think the nitro throttle linkage setup will be better for versatility?

[gfmucci]

Originally Posted by inpuressa

Post up if you have any questions.

That is my favorite quote. And here are my questions:

This thread mentions the small bolts and allen wrenches needed for the kit. I haven't begun the build yet so I am lining up the tools and other materials I will need to complete the kit.

I have a bunch of allen wrenches, but prefer hex drivers - much easier for old hands to manipulate. Can you give me the size range, in mm, of the hex drivers (or allen wrenches) needed to fit all of the various screw sizes of this kit.

Also, I plan to use 500,000 dif oil (thick goo) as a compromise between speed and crawl duties. Is that still the "go to substance" or is something else better? Has anyone mixed 500K and 1,000K (or silly putty) dif gunk to create an even tighter semi-lock, or would that then rule out performance in the 20 mph range?

For those that keep the stock weight distribution configuration, do you recommend wheel weights in the front? I understand that improves crawling performance. What does it do for 20 to 25 mph performance, or should I get different tires for that?


[/QUOTE]

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by gfmucci

That is my favorite quote. And here are my questions:

This thread mentions the small bolts and allen wrenches needed for the kit. I haven't begun the build yet so I am lining up the tools and other materials I will need to complete the kit.

I have a bunch of allen wrenches, but prefer hex drivers - much easier for old hands to manipulate. Can you give me the size range, in mm, of the hex drivers (or allen wrenches) needed to fit all of the various screw sizes of this kit.

Also, I plan to use 500,000 dif oil (thick goo) as a compromise between speed and crawl duties. Is that still the "go to substance" or is something else better? Has anyone mixed 500K and 1,000K (or silly putty) dif gunk to create an even tighter semi-lock, or would that then rule out performance in the 20 mph range?

For those that keep the stock weight distribution configuration, do you recommend wheel weights in the front? I understand that improves crawling performance. What does it do for 20 to 25 mph performance, or should I get different tires for that?

You need a 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm and 0.50 body screws are 1.5 most all others 2mm
The only one I can not remember the size of is the one oddball screw in the transmission. I think it may of been 1/16 but I can not remember, it matches nothing else on the truck.

I have run 500k and 1,000k and prefer 1,000k

If you want to go fast do not weight your tires.