Just bought the kit; could use your advice

[Angus_Beef]

Today`s order from the local hobby shop (they ship overnight for free and it saves me commute time (I`m in switzerland, its small, all mail is overnight (love my LHS, always support)))
SO...

This will be here tomorrow and I`ll get cracking:

TWIN HAMMERS KIT 4WD 1:10 EP
SIDEWINDER 3 COMBO 4600KV 2-3S WASSERDICHT 1/10
SW-1210SG SERVO 20KG DIGITAL WATERPROOF
HPI SF-10W SERVO WATERPROOF 4.5KG 6V

Now before you start telling me about that motor/esc combo - I KNOW. And thats why I did it. don't get much wheel time, want it ridiculous, its a toy, and honestly - I was real close to more. Only went with the 4600 because the 5700 was out of stock.

Disappointed the it`s not censored. Truly love the Novak censored 18.5t combo in THIS. Never had a senseless before so expecting a rather violent start-up. And thats ok for what this rig will be used for.

On that note - this is a plaything basher shitsforgiggles rig.

Which brings me to the questions...

Super Swampers. Really? Seriously? On a scale-ish buggy?
- Please recommend something more appropriate for bashing and yet looking appropriate.

The body:
-The fake lights slay me. Does anyone make some aluminium panels? What else is out there?

Open:
-Tell me your favourite mods.

thanks gents,
Angus

[MeanTT]

Here's a summary of my thoughts:

1. The motor is a little too fast, not because people hate speed but because you can only go so fast with the limited suspension of the TH. Do the following:
A: Get sway bars, run medium on the rear.
B: Get a handful of pinions. I would think the biggest you would get is 26T, and move down from there.
C: Get the GCM rear truss or make a home brew solution to help eliminate the torque twist. Without it the rig will be uncontrollable.
D: Fill the front diff with 500K fluid. Don't lock it, and don't leave it with grease only.
E: Consider a proper steering mod to get you efficient travel. Some use traxxas some use Sir. Irie's products. I use the Irie solution (which required a GCM Front mount vertical shock plate) and I love it. It's wonderful.
F. You can get aluminum plates off of Ebay. I did, and they work. I didn't like the fake lights, but I was not "slayed" over them.
D: You will NEED metal 12MM hex nuts as you will strip the plastic ones easily with the power you are pushing.

I should add that you will play around with the front, lay down shocks and will likely not what you want out of them. That's why everyone goes to a stand up arrangement as they are easier to work on and have threaded bodies. That should get you started. These little rigs don't like high speed. I know, I have tried everything. The Yeti is a much better platform. That said, part of the fun is that these things are mid-speed rigs. They are a pain in the A$$ to work on. Thought. I suggest you leave the passenger side panel off as you test different pinions so you can use an infrared thermometer to check temps.

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by MeanTT

Here's a summary of my thoughts:

1. The motor is a little too fast, not because people hate speed but because you can only go so fast with the limited suspension of the TH. Do the following:
A: Get sway bars, run medium on the rear.
B: Get a handful of pinions. I would think the biggest you would get is 26T, and move down from there.
C: Get the GCM rear truss or make a home brew solution to help eliminate the torque twist. Without it the rig will be uncontrollable.
D: Fill the front diff with 500K fluid. Don't lock it, and don't leave it with grease only.
E: Consider a proper steering mod to get you efficient travel. Some use traxxas some use Sir. Irie's products. I use the Irie solution (which required a GCM Front mount vertical shock plate) and I love it. It's wonderful.
F. You can get aluminum plates off of Ebay. I did, and they work. I didn't like the fake lights, but I was not "slayed" over them.
D: You will NEED metal 12MM hex nuts as you will strip the plastic ones easily with the power you are pushing.

I should add that you will play around with the front, lay down shocks and will likely not what you want out of them. That's why everyone goes to a stand up arrangement as they are easier to work on and have threaded bodies. That should get you started. These little rigs don't like high speed. I know, I have tried everything. The Yeti is a much better platform. That said, part of the fun is that these things are mid-speed rigs. They are a pain in the A$$ to work on. Thought. I suggest you leave the passenger side panel off as you test different pinions so you can use an infrared thermometer to check temps.

The only thing I would add to this list is metal tranny gears. I am running a 4150KV 550 can and the plastic one’s did not last long.
As for the speed you will be reaching with your TH, it will be definitely a test of your driving skills.
My TH does over 30MPH now and I love it.

[ndi_guy]

Pretty sure the kit panels don't have the fake lights. It comes with steel gears and sway bars also. Get the GCM shock plate and rear truss plus Sr. Irie's bellcrank. If you're just bashing and not crawling lock it in hi and have fun.

[Angus_Beef]

Thanks, really appreciate the reply. My notes in the quote below (tell me if you think I`m off base):

Originally Posted by MeanTT

Here's a summary of my thoughts:

1. The motor is a little too fast, not because people hate speed but because you can only go so fast with the limited suspension of the TH. Do the following:
A: Get sway bars, run medium on the rear.
-I believe the kit comes with three sets of sways f and rear. Will start with med and go from there.
B: Get a handful of pinions. I would think the biggest you would get is 26T, and move down from there.
-Have a 19t in the parts bin. Will start from here and move up as is reasonable.
C: Get the GCM rear truss or make a home brew solution to help eliminate the torque twist. Without it the rig will be uncontrollable.
-New info for me. thanks.
D: Fill the front diff with 500K fluid. Don't lock it, and don't leave it with grease only.
-Noted.
E: Consider a proper steering mod to get you efficient travel. Some use traxxas some use Sir. Irie's products. I use the Irie solution (which required a GCM Front mount vertical shock plate) and I love it. It's wonderful.
-thanks. Saw his post on that which was updated this evening. Will research and resolve.
F. You can get aluminum plates off of Ebay. I did, and they work. I didn't like the fake lights, but I was not "slayed" over them.
-Ebay is a nightmare outside of the US, but I`ll take a look.
D: You will NEED metal 12MM hex nuts as you will strip the plastic ones easily with the power you are pushing.
-Considering THESE *if* I can find a ProLine distributer here.
I should add that you will play around with the front, lay down shocks and will likely not what you want out of them. That's why everyone goes to a stand up arrangement as they are easier to work on and have threaded bodies. That should get you started. These little rigs don't like high speed. I know, I have tried everything. The Yeti is a much better platform. That said, part of the fun is that these things are mid-speed rigs. They are a pain in the A$$ to work on. Thought. I suggest you leave the passenger side panel off as you test different pinions so you can use an infrared thermometer to check temps.

Originally Posted by Sr.Irie

The only thing I would add to this list is metal tranny gears. I am running a 4150KV 550 can and the plastic one’s did not last long.
As for the speed you will be reaching with your TH, it will be definitely a test of your driving skills.
My TH does over 30MPH now and I love it.

Tell me about the metal gears. Where can I order them?

Regarding steering - will be in touch via PM.

Cheers,
Angus

Originally Posted by ndi_guy

Pretty sure the kit panels don't have the fake lights. It comes with steel gears and sway bars also. Get the GCM shock plate and rear truss plus Sr. Irie's bellcrank. If you're just bashing and not crawling lock it in hi and have fun.

Good to know. Thanks. With regard to, "If you're just bashing and not crawling lock it in hi and have fun." I very well may do this, which would allow me to use AVC on my DX4S....

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by Angus_Beef

Tell me about the metal gears. Where can I order them?

Regarding steering - will be in touch via PM.

Cheers,
Angus

I looked over that you were getting the kit version. With the kit you get metal gears, metal hexes, sway bars and a body without dumb looking lights.

[Ramsey77]

I just put together the kit version. I will add that a 21 tooth pinion is the smallest that the stock motor mount will allow with the stock 78t spur gear. 20t fit, but I couldn't get the mesh to fit properly.

[MeanTT]

Mine also hits 30 MPH, but it just doesn't handle well. It is a mid speed rig. It is fun because in a sense, its capabilities are more limited. Small obstacles are more fun, and the TH is cool because everything feels like an adventure. The issue is that the rear suspension twists as it gets compressed. When this happens, it imparts a lateral movement because it twists at an angle. I would love to know how the AVC works on it. If ever there is a rig that needs it, this is it. The TH does it no matter what tires, foams, or other things I use. It is more stable with some wheel wideners I run when I use my RC4WD steelies.

Take a look at my build thread right here:

Nearly finished TH build with EVERYTHING

That should help give you some idea. As I mentioned I stepped up to a 28T pinion. It does throw some awesome roosts though!

[Angus_Beef]

Differential Oel 500000cps Silikon
AMF Racing Aluminum Vaterra Twin Hammers Large Battery Tray / Rear End Lift Kit
Hot Racing Twin Hammers Hard Alum 78t Spur Gear
Robinson Racing 26T 48P Pinion
GCM Rear Axle Truss VTH

Should be pretty descent for a start...

[MeanTT]

Just to be clear, I am running the 3800 motor, so all things being equal, you would get the same speed that I have with a 23 t pinion. I do think the 4600 will run hotter though so you will have to watch it. Running the plastic wheels will lighten the loan on the motor anyhow as compared to my set up.

[gillbily23]

I don't know how the selection of Kyosho products is there but I use the RB5 and RB6 spur gears and slipper plates on my TH. No modifications are required and I am currently using an 82T in mine. I haven't tried the 86T yet and am not sure if it will clear the gear cover but the 82T works great with the stock pinion.

[MeanTT]

Now get it together! I want to see you smashing over gravel or some small rocks at speed. That's what upsets my TH. Gravel road beds or rocks with different sizes. It problem is from the rear.

Can't wait to see it working for you! this is exactly what the th needs, next to a 5 channel pistol grip of course!!

[Angus_Beef]

Originally Posted by gillbily23

I don't know how the selection of Kyosho products is there but I use the RB5 and RB6 spur gears and slipper plates on my TH. No modifications are required and I am currently using an 82T in mine. I haven't tried the 86T yet and am not sure if it will clear the gear cover but the 82T works great with the stock pinion.

Good to know - thanks!

Originally Posted by MeanTT

Just to be clear, I am running the 3800 motor, so all things being equal, you would get the same speed that I have with a 23 t pinion. I do think the 4600 will run hotter though so you will have to watch it. Running the plastic wheels will lighten the loan on the motor anyhow as compared to my set up.

understood. I'll have to play with pinions to see what works best for where I'm driving. Needed a starting point (granted it might be on the large side) and will go from there. thanks for the input!

AVC

Click for the movie - i couldn't figure out how to imbed it.



AVC rocks. Its awesome. Its cheating, and its fun.

Ive got the suspension soft and low, no sway up front, and the heaviest sway in the rear.it balances the two very different suspensions this car has on each end.

Nice toy and fun to play around with.

Notes: The castle sidewinder 3 combo with 4600v and a 24 tooth pinion in just about perfect (on a 2S shorty)

The HPI waterproof standard servo I bought is garbage. I always regret going cheap and end up buying twice. (needed a mini for shifting; Vaterra doesn't mention that anywhere Ive seen.

Savox is still my fav servos, ever.

The BEC in the Sidewinder is holding up, even with two thirsty Savoxes pulling juice. Noteworthy because with AVC on a TH, the steering servo never stops working. Ever. The SW-1210 SG I use for steering actually gets warm.

That said, Ive got a CC BEC on its way with my lights. Best not to tempt fate.

Cheers,
Angus

Its a hot rod. slid into a drain sideway and broke a rear shock.

Really fab with the AVC. Will post a video this weekend.

FYI - with the DX4S you can use AVC in Inh mode and use other channels too (for shifting).

[MeanTT]

What what? Are you saying you can use AVC and the other 2 open channels? If so that is HUGE. Do yourself a favor (or disfavor) and turn off ACH and try to drive over some small bumps at speed. Welcome to how the rest of the world feels. I am looking forward to your video!

[Angus_Beef]

Originally Posted by MeanTT

What what? Are you saying you can use AVC and the other 2 open channels? If so that is HUGE. Do yourself a favor (or disfavor) and turn off ACH and try to drive over some small bumps at speed. Welcome to how the rest of the world feels. I am looking forward to your video!

Yes, I'm saying just that. But here's the catch:

With AVC state field set to "ACT" it uses Aux1 for adjusting the steering gain and Aux2 for adjusting throttle gain. This allows you to fine tune the AVC level of intervention while on the fly. While in ACT state you cant use Aux1 and 2 for anything else.

With AVC state field set to "INH" the AVC goes to default values (seems like about 50%) and you cannot adjust on the fly. This mode frees up Aux 1 and 2 for other uses (like shifting), while still leaving AVC in default values.

And here's how to mitigate: you can program one of your switches to switch between ACT and INH mode. I use switch F which I can push with my left thumb while driving. If you wanted, you could use ACT for dialed in driving, switch to INH to change gears, and then flip it back to ACT. It can all be done super easy and without looking.

The defaults in INH mode are really quite good, and where I have left mine so far (granted, only 2 batteries through the car so far).

[MeanTT]

Originally Posted by Angus_Beef

Yes, I'm saying just that. But here's the catch:

With AVC state field set to "ACT" it uses Aux1 for adjusting the steering gain and Aux2 for adjusting throttle gain. This allows you to fine tune the AVC level of intervention while on the fly. While in ACT state you cant use Aux1 and 2 for anything else.

With AVC state field set to "INH" the AVC goes to default values (seems like about 50%) and you cannot adjust on the fly. This mode frees up Aux 1 and 2 for other uses (like shifting), while still leaving AVC in default values.

And here's how to mitigate: you can program one of your switches to switch between ACT and INH mode. I use switch F which I can push with my left thumb while driving. If you wanted, you could use ACT for dialed in driving, switch to INH to change gears, and then flip it back to ACT. It can all be done super easy and without looking.

The defaults in INH mode are really quite good, and where I have left mine so far (granted, only 2 batteries through the car so far).

Wow, that is great. I am looking forward to a youtube video of this on and off. I love my TH, but stable it is not....

[Angus_Beef]

Street Fighter mode installed. Urban assault vehicle. Etc. And now with 3S powers

[bill mossor]

Pre-thread the holes with a good cap head screw to keep the stock screw heads from stripping & use thread lock on screws going in to metal .