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Old 01-17-2009, 04:19 PM   #21
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i know about the heat treating issue, and i realize it happens sometimes,waiting for parts isn't an issue either as i'm not getting the body back for about 2 weeks, and as i have said the customer service has been excellent, but this is the 3rd problem i have had with this truck. i am actually starting to wonder about the rest of the heat treated parts

Last edited by wcy; 01-17-2009 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 01-17-2009, 04:41 PM   #22
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Ok, I see why you are frustrated.
Hopefully Venom will solve these problems quickly so we get to drive our trucks without any problems soon .
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:10 PM   #23
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Yup I just had a rear axel snap on me
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:54 PM   #24
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new issue, front diff gave up the locker today at ckrcs little track. picks to fallow. I was super bound up when it gave up the gost.
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:02 AM   #25
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Being that this is a brand new kit, I'm not that surprised. I knew what I was getting into, so I'm not mad (I've dealt with issues on more than a few "first run" kits). I was more worried about how customer service was going to be since this is my first venom purchase. I am glad to say it is excellent. I am a little bummed about not being able to crawl, but I don't mind the wait too much. I still haven't even painted/trimmed the body yet, so I guess I'll go do that now.
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:22 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werty View Post
new issue, front diff gave up the locker today at ckrcs little track. picks to fallow. I was super bound up when it gave up the gost.
I'm interested to see what you broke so please post pics when you can. I have yet to break one in regular driving/testing so you must have really wrenched on it to fail.

Chris
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:01 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by CRAWLINGAROUND View Post
I'm interested to see what you broke so please post pics when you can. I have yet to break one in regular driving/testing so you must have really wrenched on it to fail.

Chris
I didn't get a pic of what failed, too busy getting it ready for going out yesterday. The 3 pins that lock the diff rotated in the plastic, as they did, it caused the plastic to bulge, pushing the pins out of the metal gear in the diff. All i did was file it down and then super glued the selector to the diff. I dont care about being able to unlock the diff. I am hard on my rc stuff though... yesterday i rolled the creeper 30 feet and all it did was break a plastic tie rod end on the front.

The creeper is holding up to all the abuse I can throw at it. here is where i broke the link. about 2:45 in
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYYKGAWfQr4
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:13 PM   #28
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Is there a way to just buy 8 or so of the bent rod ends without buying more links?
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:35 PM   #29
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Hey I just want to say I called customer service about my broken axel & they were more than helpfull you guys put out a great rig & you have really good customer service!! Thank You Tom!!
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Old 01-19-2009, 02:45 PM   #30
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Any plans for a straight rear axle and lockout ?
like this







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Old 01-19-2009, 03:38 PM   #31
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Hו Chris

I send aprivate messge to you.

there is some problem with my Venom Creeper .

David mizrahi
From ISRAEL
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:39 PM   #32
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My only issues so far, my kit was short a few rod ends and some miscellaneous hardware. And I had a piece of metal wedged into one of my diff gears.

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Old 01-19-2009, 05:06 PM   #33
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I hope thats not part of our mold! LOL

Call our Customer Service guys and see about getting that taken care of (missing parts) and your special bevel gear. If you could ship that part to me I would interested in seeing that. I'd like to know what got stuck in there.

Chris
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcar1 View Post
Hו Chris

I send aprivate messge to you.

there is some problem with my Venom Creeper .

David mizrahi
From ISRAEL
Yep I replied, thanks!

Chris
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAWLINGAROUND View Post
I hope thats not part of our mold! LOL

Call our Customer Service guys and see about getting that taken care of (missing parts) and your special bevel gear. If you could ship that part to me I would interested in seeing that. I'd like to know what got stuck in there.

Chris
I put the gear in a vise and tapped the piece out, I can send it to you if you want.

Who is the "tech guy"?
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:15 PM   #36
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Easy repair for broken axle stub. I used a stub off an old hpi rs4 that Ive had for years. Drill out to accept the creeper axle. then I moved the opposite side rear axle to the front so i didnt have to worry about steering issues. Got about three hour drive time and no problems, Hope this helps till replacements are shipped.

Last edited by chrrand; 01-19-2009 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:39 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrrand View Post
Easy repair for broken axle stub. I used a stub off an old hpi rs4 that Ive had for years. Drill out to accept the creeper axle. then I moved the opposite side rear axle to the front so i didnt have to worry about steering issues. Got about three hour drive time and no problems, Hope this helps till replacements are shipped.
got a pic of that?
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:37 AM   #38
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The wheels do not come predrilled for venting the air out. This was left up to the customer so it can be tuned as needed. If you want a smaller hole for more control or if you want a larger hole for faster tire response thats up to you. I do suggest you run our wheels with some hole or you wont be taking advantage of the super soft tires and memory foam inserts. I dont suggest you make holes in the tires as this could lead to tearing and ruin the tire.
Weight sets...our weight sets are precisely machined to a specific weight so a wheel can be tuned to get the desired performance. They are made from steel and are pretty accurate parts that bolt onto the wheels as a system. There have been some comments on the price of the sets, which include enough parts for 4 wheels. If you compare the price of buying a new set of machined aluminum wheels or PL plastic/alloy wheels and then tires and some weights you can see quickly that it adds up to more than one of our weight sets which are purpose built for the application. The cost of the kit and one weight set is still less than any competitors kit and a hand selected set of wheels tires and weights combined. There are no modifications to make and the parts just go together. I hope that helps shed some light on the weight sets and maybe you can see the added value of the Beadlox Wheel System.
For my personal Creeper I use the 1.3 set up front for half a pound per wheel and nothing in the rear wheels. Right now that seems to be a pretty good all around set up.

Chris
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:17 PM   #39
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Chris, I can understand trying to back your product but......

I can buy a full set of MACHINED wheels for $60.00 and weight is going to cost me all of $3-5

Precisely machined, these aren't race cars turning thousands of RPM's. We have been running lead stick on weight for YEARS with no adverse affects.

It was a good idea and a good execution but you guys missed the ball so far on the price it is funny. $20 would be expensive but probably acceptable.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:45 PM   #40
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You have a good point as well and I'm not going to go to great lengths to convince you all of what this is. Either you see the value of the system or you dont and thats fine.
They are not precise because of rpms and how perfectly round they need to be, no not at all, they are precise for their target weight as a machined part, 1.3oz or 2.5oz each part. This gives you the ability to adjust the weight of the wheel as you require and not have to undo your custom assembly, or make extra different sets, in the field and at a comp. In a few minutes you can change the weight and go again, simple as that.
Its not cheap to make these parts or the price would also reflect that. We are very reasonable on all the parts prices I think most would agree.

So thats it from me on this subject.

Chris
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