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Anyone happy with the Losi?

I went thru the 4 pages of this thread so far and alot of complaints about the weak CVD's/Axles and alot of people say to back the steering off and it will be fine.....well if it was desinged to have so much steering then shouldn't have to back it off, that's like buying a new car with A/C and every time you run it on High the car over heats and the dealer says to use Medium speed cause it will work better!


After seeing how many times the release date was pushed back after preorders were made and now this, I'm so glad I didn't order one.

If you take the truck and have your steering EP's maxed out and hold it in your hands, turn it full crank. You will here the cvd's making noise, that noise is the cup hitting the axle shaft. The cups don't taper inon the inside edge, creating stess on it. Once you do this, the shaft is compromized. Next thing you know you going up a straight vertical looking for traction, you hook up and SNAP! That's why its nice to back off the steering EP's. Besides the dig will help you turn sharper if needed.
 
If you take the truck and have your steering EP's maxed out and hold it in your hands, turn it full crank. You will here the cvd's making noise, that noise is the cup hitting the axle shaft. The cups don't taper inon the inside edge, creating stess on it. Once you do this, the shaft is compromized. Next thing you know you going up a straight vertical looking for traction, you hook up and SNAP! That's why its nice to back off the steering EP's. Besides the dig will help you turn sharper if needed.

Mark one for the "has it figured out" column.
 
Lovin it. Regreased everything and checked that all fasteners were tight before I ran it. set steering Ep's so at max it is about 3 degrees shy of binding the cv's , installed my fx-r 12 turn 480 puller with 12t pinion, and my Hitec 5645 servo(spare) have run about 7 full 1350 mah 2s packs and 3 1300 3s packs through it and am very impressed. it climbs everything my Axial Piano wire truck will climb for the most part and a few lines that the axial won't. Had some high motor temps 170-190 degrees, so I installed a small computer fan blowing down on the motor. now runs 140 degrees max after 20 minutes hard crawling a full 3s pack. have already ordered spare set of cvd's just in case but thinking I am going to run this truck at our ORCRC comp this weekend. "thumbsup"
 
If you take the truck and have your steering EP's maxed out and hold it in your hands, turn it full crank. You will here the cvd's making noise, that noise is the cup hitting the axle shaft. The cups don't taper inon the inside edge, creating stess on it. Once you do this, the shaft is compromized. Next thing you know you going up a straight vertical looking for traction, you hook up and SNAP! That's why its nice to back off the steering EP's. Besides the dig will help you turn sharper if needed.

My CVDs worked smoothly throughout full travel. I checked and double check that, before I ran that way. My EPA wasn't maxed, but it was set so that the steering arm just barely touched the inner knuckle, which is what I consider full travel.

Its possible that the tolerances are such that some CVDs don't turn as much as they should. If this is the case, setting your EPAs to limit steering is not going to work for too long. I tried that with my Axial, and the rocks foced the tire to turn much past what my EPAs were set at, and I popped CVDs. I had to put a mechanical limit (small screws in the knuckles) that stopped it, as well as setting proper EPAs

I know there are some difference from one CVD to the next. The CVD on mine that broke had the slots for the pin cut a little deeper than the one that survived. On the one that broke, the slot went as far as the thickest part of the axle shaft :shock:

Now, I am using some B44/LCC hybrid CVDs, and they are holding up well. they are pretty much the exact same size as the LCC, but the slots for the pin aren't as excessive, and the axle shaft is smaller in diameter. I think the smaller diameter shaft is better than the thicker shaft, necking down, sharply.

With my rig getting full steering deflection, and holding up, I am much happier with it. My only problem now, is run time and motor temp. Hoping Gear Jelly will help with that :)
 
This is my first 2.2 crawler. I have some experience with RC but not nearly as much as all of you. My checkbook is also light. I think mine will stay in the box until the kinks are worked out.
 
Like it!!!! Checked the screws, diffs, and set EPA's. Works great!! Pulls lines my ax wouldn't. Drives a little different, but easy to get use to. Very happy with it
 
My CVDs worked smoothly throughout full travel. I checked and double check that, before I ran that way. My EPA wasn't maxed, but it was set so that the steering arm just barely touched the inner knuckle, which is what I consider full travel.

Its possible that the tolerances are such that some CVDs don't turn as much as they should. If this is the case, setting your EPAs to limit steering is not going to work for too long. I tried that with my Axial, and the rocks foced the tire to turn much past what my EPAs were set at, and I popped CVDs. I had to put a mechanical limit (small screws in the knuckles) that stopped it, as well as setting proper EPAs

I know there are some difference from one CVD to the next. The CVD on mine that broke had the slots for the pin cut a little deeper than the one that survived. On the one that broke, the slot went as far as the thickest part of the axle shaft :shock:

Now, I am using some B44/LCC hybrid CVDs, and they are holding up well. they are pretty much the exact same size as the LCC, but the slots for the pin aren't as excessive, and the axle shaft is smaller in diameter. I think the smaller diameter shaft is better than the thicker shaft, necking down, sharply.

With my rig getting full steering deflection, and holding up, I am much happier with it. My only problem now, is run time and motor temp. Hoping Gear Jelly will help with that :)

On the temp thing on the axles, remove 1 shim per side (There are 2 per side) of the spool & you should be good. From what i have read & know about the worms is they will self center somewhat & make their on wear pattern as the break in.
 
On the temp thing on the axles, remove 1 shim per side (There are 2 per side) of the spool & you should be good. From what i have read & know about the worms is they will self center somewhat & make their on wear pattern as the break in.

Just checked the manual, there should be 3 shims per side.

Speedracer have you done this to a Losi?
 
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Just checked the manual, there should be 3 shims per side.

Speedracer have you done this to a Losi?

Not the top worm gear but the spool, the locker, the part that drives the axles, there are two shims on each side of the spool per bearing. DO NOT take any shims out of the top gear as that will let the gear screw itsself back & forth as you go from foward to reverse. Yes i have taken one shim per bearing per side out of the spool gear & it frees the drivetrain up greatly & runs cooler.
I checked for side to side play & with only the one shim per bearing per side there was hardly any play.
 
Back to the topic:

I'm still waiting on my Losi to arrive, wish I knew it was going to flop I could have bought it locally since so many cancelled their orders....lol

Anyways, I will admit I was dissappointed to see all the issues with new owners, but I think it's important to remember that even though we all put the Losi up on a pedstal it is still just a crappy RC ARTR, and 95% of all ARTRs and RTRs suck.

Compare the Team Losi to it's nearest rival in the market, not the Berg, the Axial.

Axial ARTR - 250.00

Hammers, Ok but not all that great better than Rock Lizards
Chassis - it sucks
Battery Placement Horrible
Plastic Pivot Balls
Self tapping crap hardware
No CVD's
No Dig
DriveShafts pop and twist like crazy

I can go on but you get the point.

and so on, but we love our Axials, well we love the tranney, when we replace all the gears and we love the axles when we bullet proof them.


Now Compare this with what comes in the Losi box for 285.00, That's really a good price for all the parts, now we just have to figure out how to make them all work and what needs to go, just like the Axial.


Anyone that bought the Team Losi expecting to get it out of the box and run out and compete and win will be upset, sorry you fell for marketing, but by now don't we all know that ads and campaigns are full of crap.

The CVD and Motor thing will work out, I'm still placing my money on the aftermarket, but Losi may step up and do the right thing, but I wouldn't hold your breath.
 
horizon support

Horizon is aware of the problems and said all you got to do is call them and they will send you replacement parts till they work things out. They said that losi is working hard to solve the problem. Just give them a call."thumbsup"
 
The CVD and Motor thing will work out, I'm still placing my money on the aftermarket, but Losi may step up and do the right thing, but I wouldn't hold your breath.


Don't count on the motor thing really "working out". That is just what happens with worm gears. You are going to need good motors and good batteries and that is what is going to be the solution. The gears will break in some for sure but they aren't just going to become efficient all of a sudden.
 
Hi crawler guys...

I' m from Germany and visit this forum a few times. (sry for my bad english)

I don' t own a Losi cause my LHS didn' t have it yet in stock, but I modified a Kyosho Rock Force months ago.

Same problems but the parts are much more stronger. Without the right combination of motor/esc and spur/pinion it always overheat and/or I had less running time. The worms work pretty but I fit enough special teflon grease (heat resist) onto it.

e.g.

motor - LRP Crawler 21.5 T
esc - LRP Crawler sensored, brushless
batt. - LRP 7,2 V 1.600 mAh 2/3 A

spur - 82T 48dp
pinion - 23T 48dp
worm - i=1:30 (i total= 1:106)

The motor and the esc - only lukewarm (? correct so...), running time more than 45 minutes, less speed (I think it's normally cause of the overall reduction) but heavy torque (no torque twist :mrgreen:).

back to topic:

I think Losi is on the right way, many things would be more stronger - I' m sure the aftermarket bring out a lot of goodies. Reduce the EPA, fit enough very good grease onto worms and take a look around those who need Loctite (e.g. Losi Lock) - I' m sure the Race Roller works pretty well out of the box if this points observed.

Anyone drive an Axial out of the box and stock ??? - No, just modified.
Anyone drive a Berg with original suspension and rims ???

The Losi have good parts and the price' s o.k. If I spend 500 - 700,- $ for hop ups into the Axial - I' ve a really good Comp Crawler with CVD, dig, straight axle etc., too.

If I had my Losi, I modified it for my scale rig... an Unimog U 1200 :mrgreen:


OK... the old school crawler pilots will think... ohhhh the newbie...

Please spend a little time to take a look about my Kyosho RF:

visit: www.rockcrawler.de

-> "Startseite"
-> "Fahrzeuge"
-> 2.2" Crawler
-> "Themen"
-> assembly report: Kyosho Rock Force (from duddits)

Sry, I can' t directly link !


Thanks a lot - hope my report was still somewhat helpful.


Regards, Juergen
 
Anyone that bought the Team Losi expecting to get it out of the box and run out and compete and win will be upset, sorry you fell for marketing, but by now don't we all know that ads and campaigns are full of crap.

I think the hype went beyond the marketing campaign. Team Drivers, Project Managers, and High Profile RCC members went out of their way to promote the product on this forum. People trusted those individuals, and bought the trucks thinking they had the inside scoop.
 
Horizon is aware of the problems and said all you got to do is call them and they will send you replacement parts till they work things out. They said that losi is working hard to solve the problem. Just give them a call."thumbsup"

Good, now let's hope the new batch of CVD's starts rolling out soon.

Don't count on the motor thing really "working out". That is just what happens with worm gears. You are going to need good motors and good batteries and that is what is going to be the solution. The gears will break in some for sure but they aren't just going to become efficient all of a sudden.

Sure it will work out, you will buy a Brushless and that will work it out...LOL

I think the hype went beyond the marketing campaign. Team Drivers, Project Managers, and High Profile RCC members went out of their way to promote the product on this forum. People trusted those individuals, and bought the trucks thinking they had the inside scoop.


OH YEA, If you read that crazy Losi thread you can see this thing snowballin' out of control, people expected way more than 285 can deliver.



BUT DAMMIT Can't we do anything about UPS, hell man I needs my Losi.
 
I think the hype went beyond the marketing campaign. Team Drivers, Project Managers, and High Profile RCC members went out of their way to promote the product on this forum. People trusted those individuals, and bought the trucks thinking they had the inside scoop.


I think this is a very true statement, I have been following the losi thread from day one and there was alot of "support" from people on this board that most people depend on as being trustworthy and to give an unbiased info on these new rigs coming into the market. Anyone seen "The great white hype"?"thumbsup"
 
Horizon is aware of the problems and said all you got to do is call them and they will send you replacement parts till they work things out. They said that losi is working hard to solve the problem. Just give them a call."thumbsup"

Anybody been able to confirm this with Horizon by getting some new ones? Getting ready to call, but don't want to get shot down with the wrong info. Some replacement CVD's would be a good thing...

Thanks
 
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