Steering Improvements

[Trail Blazer]

I noticed the Xr beef tube from beef tube are a bit longer specially for this mod, I only have the stock wheels from the honcho kit so might have to look into those

 

[Hammer!]

wait a second, are you guys saying i need different beef tubes if i want to install new cvd's? if so, what ones?

 

[Trail Blazer]

wait a second, are you guys saying i need different beef tubes if i want to install new cvd's? if so, what ones?

No only for the Xr mod the tubes are longer, the lads are saying some of them still use normal lentgth tubes with the Xr mod. I havnt read anything about different tubes for cvd's "thumbsup"

 

[C*H*U*D]

No only for the Xr mod the tubes are longer, the lads are saying some of them still use normal lentgth tubes with the Xr mod. I havnt read anything about different tubes for cvd's "thumbsup"

Correct. Normal beef tubes for the narrow mod, and the axle shafts have to be shortened. Longer beef tubes for doing the mod without shortening the axle shafts.

Regular beef tubes if you are keeping the stock parts and just using new CVD's.

 

[Dostradamas]

wow this is getting long in the tooth.

XR Mod = XR (or wraith) Knuckles & Chubs (not necessarily nailing down which uni's)
Narrow XR mod you will need longer uni's (either lengthen scx10{ or ax10}universals or shorten xr universals )
Wide XR Mod uses stock length xr universals.

There is a lot of confusion because there are 2 (at least) different width XR Mods people are talking about (narrow & wide) without differentiating which is which.

Pick a width (or universal ) & let whoever you are getting tubes from what width (or universals) you are using & they can make sure you get the right ones.

You must use splined tube ends if you want the splines to line up together & lock in your clocking position with the chub, you can however clean out the ID of a splined Chub so it fits OVER the splines & then you use the screws to lock your clocked position.

Many options, many good ways to go, lots of overlapping info,
XR mod sticky maybe?

/\ well put CHUD

 

[skerb]

wow this is getting long in the tooth.



XR Mod = XR (or wraith) Knuckles & Chubs (not necessarily nailing down which uni's)

Narrow XR mod you will need longer uni's (either lengthen scx10{ or ax10}universals or shorten xr universals )

Wide XR Mod uses stock length xr universals.



There is a lot of confusion because there are 2 (at least) different width XR Mods people are talking about (narrow & wide) without differentiating which is which.



Pick a width (or universal ) & let whoever you are getting tubes from what width (or universals) you are using & they can make sure you get the right ones.



You must use splined tube ends if you want the splines to line up together & lock in your clocking position with the chub, you can however clean out the ID of a splined Chub so it fits OVER the splines & then you use the screws to lock your clocked position.



Many options, many good ways to go, lots of overlapping info,

XR mod sticky maybe?



/\ well put CHUD

Spot on except for the part about needing splined tubes or cleaning out the id of a splined chub. Read some of the links posted above, you trim some of the tabs to act as splines and you can clock the chubs at matching angles.

 

[Dostradamas]

Spot on except for the part about needing splined tubes or cleaning out the id of a splined chub. Read some of the links posted above, you trim some of the tabs to act as splines and you can clock the chubs at matching angles.

Depending on what tubes you use.
Creation fab tubes remove that part of the axle case when you install.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axle...0-tubes-=new-styles=-*now-taking-orders*.html

So many options
Clarity is the goal

 

[KMS]

This is why Axial should add this to the scx10 instead of spending tons of money on new body rigs that don't steer,,, They have the best scale rig why not make it better ???

 

[Hammer!]

This is why Axial should add this to the scx10 instead of spending tons of money on new body rigs that don't steer,,, They have the best scale rig why not make it better ???

i could not agree more. in my opinion the four things axial should make stock about the scx10 are 4 link in the front, chassis mounted servo, waterproofed and better steering.

 

[C*H*U*D]

I would love to see a narrower, center pumpkin AR60 for the SCX line. It would solve all of this swapping around of parts, and bring the SCX axles up in the scale factor. The AX/SCX axles were great years ago, but are pretty dated in looks.


Psssst...Brandon, are you listening :ror:

 

[Meatwad]

I would love to see a narrower, center pumpkin AR60 for the SCX line. It would solve all of this swapping around of parts, and bring the SCX axles up in the scale factor. The AX/SCX axles were great years ago, but are pretty dated in looks.

Psssst...Brandon, are you listening :ror:

This seems the only logical progression, with good reason. Hopefully just a matter of time. I'd buy me some "thumbsup"

 

[spookyseven]

i could not agree more. in my opinion the four things axial should make stock about the scx10 are 4 link in the front, chassis mounted servo, waterproofed and better steering.

Chassis mounted servos and 4 links don't play well together, you will end up with bump steer.

As this thread shows there is more than one way to skin the cat. I can see where some people have problems with the scx cvds holding up but if you aren't running huge power on a heavy truck they work just fine. In my experience with a lightweight 1.9 scaler I added cvds, OD the front and countersunk the screws holding the axle c-hubs to get more steering. A rough measurement of the turning radius went from 77" to about 56". I didn't try to measure anything on the rocks but it feels like the truck stays pointed in the direction I want whereas before the mods it felt like I had to fight the truck to get it to go where I wanted it.

To add another option to the list you can build a narrow ar60 axle. The advantage is the way the shocks mount on top of the links gives you a little more room before you hit your tries on them. Also after its done you have a one piece housing with a removable diff cover vs a scx axle with beef tubes which takes more work to disassemble when trying to get to the diff. Here is some info on a narrow ar60.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/gene...arrow-axle-options-w-lots-steering-angle.html

 

[Dostradamas]

I would love to see a narrower, center pumpkin AR60 for the SCX line. It would solve all of this swapping around of parts, and bring the SCX axles up in the scale factor. The AX/SCX axles were great years ago, but are pretty dated in looks.


Psssst...Brandon, are you listening :ror:

Wait that would be far too easy a solution.

Hey Axial DO THAT!

 

[Hammer!]

ok i have a problem with bump steer that i didnt notice before... at full flex on one side the tires are less that than a hair width from the shocks, not leaving for anymore radius. I'm running 4 link and cms, and when not flexing it could have way more steering. is there anything i can do to fix the bump steer or is it just something i have to live with...? (at least i can still run od/ud)

 

[DowntownScience]

ok i have a problem with bump steer that i didnt notice before... at full flex on one side the tires are less that than a hair width from the shocks, not leaving for anymore radius. I'm running 4 link and cms, and when not flexing it could have way more steering. is there anything i can do to fix the bump steer or is it just something i have to live with...? (at least i can still run od/ud)

Go to 3 link with pan hard in front

 

[rcwolf]

ok i have a problem with bump steer that i didnt notice before... at full flex on one side the tires are less that than a hair width from the shocks, not leaving for anymore radius. I'm running 4 link and cms, and when not flexing it could have way more steering. is there anything i can do to fix the bump steer or is it just something i have to live with...? (at least i can still run od/ud)

Make sure there is no play in your links that you use spacers to keep everything tight where your links connect to your axles and to the transmission mount, see if that helps. btw.. are you using plastic or metal links? As long as there is no slop it should work.

 

[Hammer!]

Make sure there is no play in your links that you use spacers to keep everything tight where your links connect to your axles and to the transmission mount, see if that helps. btw.. are you using plastic or metal links? As long as there is no slop it should work.

what do you mean by "no play in my links" and I'm using vanquish titanium links...

 

[rcwolf]

for instance on your axles where your lower links and shocks sit side by side, if there is room for them to wiggle put in some spacers to fill up the space if needed.... same where your links connect to the transmission mount.. make sure your links cant slide from side to side, and uppers etc.

 

[Trail Blazer]

Go to 3 link with pan hard in front

Noob question,is 3 link better then four?

 

[Hammer!]

for instance on your axles where your lower links and shocks sit side by side, if there is room for them to wiggle put in some spacers to fill up the space if needed.... same where your links connect to the transmission mount.. make sure your links cant slide from side to side, and uppers etc.

there is probably less than a millimetre (maybe about a millimetre) of gap but its so little would it really make a difference? and what do i do to fix it anyway