The unofficial official axial portal buggy.

[Natedog]

Any comments on the slipper? With just a plastic spacer and no spring, it is either slipping or locked - very difficult to find a balance as just cracking the nut makes a huge change. Not sure why there is even a slipper there in this case. Thanks.

Lock it down and use your finger to not punch throttle while all bound up. ;-)"thumbsup"

Use the softer springs and fully compress them a few times before installation. This will get the shocks to settle close to where you want it to actually sit with the lower links level.

Yep, old racer trick. "thumbsup"

Just saw this on the booklet of faces and love it. @Durok I hope you see this as I know you hated that front nose.

Nice, but I'd do a TF2 hardbody.

We may see more of this soon, I saw another post with a tamiya hilux on the Capra, with the bed bobbed and dovetailed around the rear cage.

"thumbsup"

Surprised a Capra section hasn't been created yet.

X2, please mods.

 

[Brake Weight]

Anyone going OG brushed 35T for motor?

Not 35t but gonna try a 45t and 80t.

 

[Sneetches]

Not 35t but gonna try a 45t and 80t.

Are you deleting the portals to try the 80T? Considering how tall the gear ratio is at that point. Otherwise that seems painfully slow.

 

[JSterrett]

I'm doing 35T Tekin hand wound and a 1080, because that is what was in my parts box, lol

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[honda3]

How are we supposed to hook the battery up each time? do we need to stub the esc lead into the battery tray and connect from there each time?

 

[mikemcE]

How are we supposed to hook the battery up each time? do we need to stub the esc lead into the battery tray and connect from there each time?

You always hook the battery up each time, and disconnect it when done. Lipo safety!


Hang up and Drive

 

[MaX-D]

How are we supposed to hook the battery up each time? do we need to stub the esc lead into the battery tray and connect from there each time?

I hope I'm understanding this correctly, but Mount Your ESC under the dash which is on the back side of the battery tray, then your battery lead from the ESC will reach your battery. Plug in your battery before you slide it down into the tray

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[JatoTheRipper]

I'm having a hell of a time setting up my dig in 3 position. From 4WD to freewheeling rear to locked rear it works fine. But when in locked rear it simply won't shift to freewheeling 98% of the time. It stays locked. Shifting to 4WD is fine. The shaft slides freely. The dig servo mount and skid plate flex so darn much. I think that's a big part of it. Any other suggestions?

 

[honda3]

I hope I'm understanding this correctly, but Mount Your ESC under the dash which is on the back side of the battery tray, then your battery lead from the ESC will reach your battery. Plug in your battery before you slide it down into the tray

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Yes you are. I mounted the esc where the manual showed and the leads won't reach. Ill move it, thanks for the help.

 

[Panther6834]

Yes you are. I mounted the esc where the manual showed and the leads won't reach. Ill move it, thanks for the help.

If you're battery leads aren't long enough, why not just replace them? Using a soldering iron, heat the wires at the ESC (800° should do it), and the solder will liquefy, enabling you to remove the wires. Clean the solder from the ESC, cut new/longer wires, solder on new connectors at one end, them solder the other to the ESC.

~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

 

[Frank211]

Need a winch hookup for your capra

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[RMIII]

That's a cool winch mod!

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[CM9000]

Terrible winch mod. Rollovers ought to be fun..

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[JatoTheRipper]

Terrible winch mod. Rollovers ought to be fun..

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

On top of looking horrible.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

On top of looking horrible.

The spool is going to live a long happy life right up to the first good rollover when those PLA brackets break off and the spool bends. :lol:

 

[ROWDY RACING]

That looks like shit

 

[Almighty Malach]

:lmao: Looks and execution aside, how does he think those winch line hooks are going to last with the line running against it all the time?

 

[youngblood]

Can we get a Capra section already? I'm sick of juggling these two threads.

 

[soze]

It’s 2, either on/off. When setting the end points you just click the button once and it switches to the other side.

Ah so you're setting it up to have 4WD or locked rear? I want 3-position - AWD, locked rear and open rear. I've never used a dig before, but I'm thinking the open rear would be great for trying to climb steep hills. Start in FWD so that it doesn't roll over backwards. As Rich stated somewhere in this thread, it's very tight between open rear and locked rear.

Correct, just 4wd and locked rear. Is open rear possible with this Dig? This is my first one too, and I’d like to have the 3 options like you noted.

Three position is possible, that's the way mine is set up. I put it on a lever with 100% steps resulting in just three positions for the servo, 100, 0, and -100. Once the endpoints were set it was just a matter of dialing in the center point.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. Sounds like I have some tinkering to do. "thumbsup"

Thanks for the info. I know Ultra RC (YouTube channel) set his up on a 3-way switch, but he didn't include how he did the settings. Gotta remember that when it's time to start programming. Now...back to building.

~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

My end points were more like 55, 0 and -8 or something crazy like that. It takes barely any movement to go from open rear to locked. Did you notice the same thing?

Yeah, my endpoints are similar, and my center is some non-zero setting. The 100, 0, -100 are the positions on the actual transmitter lever that trigger the servo. Using an Airtronics M12.

I have a lot of catching up to do, as I haven't been able to check the forums a lot lately.

Another option you guys can try is the two channels for the 2 dials on top of the transmitter. It'd be more of an analog feel where you turn the knob until it's engaged/disengaged. The HoBao controller that I got with the HoBao DC1 does this for the 2-speed transmission (although I now use the GT3C with it). I'm guessing you can do something similar here with the GT5 if you are having trouble using the ch4 3-position switch and setting those endpoints.

I've joined the GT5 gang since it's cheaper to buy receivers for this than the Sanwa MXV's I've been using for my non-crawlers. I might start using the GT5 for my crawlers and the GT3C for my non-crawlers...

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Can we get a Capra section already? I'm sick of juggling these two threads.

If it hasn't happened by now I don't think it's going to happen. I just don't understand why...

I have a lot of catching up to do, as I haven't been able to check the forums a lot lately.

Another option you guys can try is the two channels for the 2 dials on top of the transmitter. It'd be more of an analog feel where you turn the knob until it's engaged/disengaged. The HoBao controller that I got with the HoBao DC1 does this for the 2-speed transmission (although I now use the GT3C with it). I'm guessing you can do something similar here with the GT5 if you are having trouble using the ch4 3-position switch and setting those endpoints.

I've joined the GT5 gang since it's cheaper to buy receivers for this than the Sanwa MXV's I've been using for my non-crawlers. I might start using the GT5 for my crawlers and the GT3C for my non-crawlers...

That's interesting idea. Unfortunately, I don't think I'd like that because I want the dig shifting to be quick. Knobs would be slower.