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Grimaces 'POS' Wraith

Forgot to mention that whilst the motor and it's brushes seem Ok. The unit gets very hot very quick. Specially if I am going over say 50% throttle.
Have not got exact temps but I'd say it's at the point where you can only just keep your finger on it without burning.
Already running 87/14 gearing and have my throttle trimmed to 80% of Max to keep top speed and heat down.

The servo also gets warm but not hot like the motor.

Should I be concerned about this? Or is it normal?
 
Hahahaaaa, currently going through same issues on JT's Wraith. Every 2nd battery breaking plastic shit. List just keeps rising & I had a mini heart attack with how much servos are !!!


brooksy
 
Hahahaaaa, currently going through same issues on JT's Wraith. Every 2nd battery breaking plastic shit. List just keeps rising & I had a mini heart attack with how much servos are !!!


brooksy

Lol my hitec servo cost $$$ :shock:

Pete got me onto researching the Savox units and for around $80 you can get a Savox SA1230SG Digital Servo which has the same amount of torque (at 6V) as my HS-7980TH High Voltage, Mega Torque, Titanium Gear, Coreless Ultra Premium Servo | HITEC RCD USA

But even so, every claims its monster torque and never get stalled out. I have stalled mine out a handful of times, even at 7.4V
 
Level3 droop kit arrived and I have fit it this evening. Done something different in the rear to suit the 150mm shocks and surprisingly it works out dam well.

Current ride height;
sa6ejyre.jpg


Full droop;
yny6ede7.jpg


Full compression;
vure6ejy.jpg


The springs both front and rear need to be softer to suit my preference. But in saying that they seem Ok.
The flex is fairly even, the plan is to fit softer, shorter springs to allow both some preload adjustment and a slightly lower ride height.
At the moment the shock adjusters are wound right out.

I will then start experimenting with shock oil and pistons. But as it is a crawler is not to critical.

The configuration I utilized;
Front
vydy6ype.jpg


Rear
ujujudat.jpg


Flex;
a5aga2ub.jpg

ejazygy8.jpg
 
Looking good champion. I like how you got the 150's to work. Looks like you have same issues as i do now with up travel having the tyre lugs grabbing the chassis rail & loads up pretty bad. With the Bronco body on it doesn't grab & rubs horribly but due to the rear tub it eliminates the lug bounce on the chassis.




brooksy
 
Yeah I had issues with the front tyres binding with the outer wings of the front bar. I noticed you had trimmed them off also.
The other areas are ok. It doesn't rub hard if at all all in the rear and the front is manageable now with the wings removed.
 
Well ordered some proline spring assortments today. Both front and rears, some rebuild kits to use the spring collar only.
Aswell as some 40wt oil.
I also ordered a stainless screw kit.

Got a couple of threaded allen heads :( not sure on the best method for removal.
 
Got some wheeling done yesterday

juvadahe.jpg


zu4u2u3e.jpg


7aqa4uzy.jpg


Now have what I presume is a stripped spur gear!
Yep, wraith is broken again :(

Meanwhile Petes stock PS Wraith is still going, even with all the high speed bashing! Think I might upgrade to stock! :)
 
Damn spur and pinion is fine;
jatevemy.jpg


Internals not so much;
epy6y5a4.jpg


Wraith is looking sad too;
hehusetu.jpg


But motor and brushes look like new! So that's one positive;
qy7a2y5a.jpg


Looks like I'll have a few things to sort in one go.
Current list is 12t pinion, shock tuning springs and oil, dig unit, shock braces, MIPs and now I'll need to add new Internals for the trans....
Just got to research all my options.
Will get a HD motor plate too.

More $$$ FML!!!
 
My Wraith is in pieces too...waiting for new parts; nothing is broken, just upgrading though. Other than less rotational mass, is there any other distinct advantage to going with the lightweight trans gears vs. the regular hardened steel gears?
 
My Wraith is in pieces too...waiting for new parts; nothing is broken, just upgrading though. Other than less rotational mass, is there any other distinct advantage to going with the lightweight trans gears vs. the regular hardened steel gears?

I don't think there is any other benefit but I am not 100%.
I only grabbed the light weight gear set due to the others being out of stock.

If there are any other benefits then bonus, if there are downsides tot he lightened gears (ie much weaker) then 'bugger'! :mrgreen:
 
Parcel!

Part of my tower hobbies order has arrived.

First up the machined link mounts. Shock braces and a back up 55t motor.
a8uqajyh.jpg


Next up the MIPs.
2azysypu.jpg


And finally the dig servo.
verujaha.jpg


Still waiting on a number of items and the dig component set is still on backorder :(.

More updates as stuff arrives!
 
Wow getting parcels at work make me realize how tiny the wraith really is...
These items look to small on their own!

HR trans housing;
u3apaqen.jpg


HR lightweight gear set and trans bearings;
2anyzuma.jpg


SuperShafty motor mount;
3u5yquhe.jpg



Should be able to get this back to a usable state tonight.
Got two more parcels at home but not sure if they are RC parts or not. Should have an update tonight regardless.

Cheers all!
 
FML!

Hot Racing sux! Just like the HR products for the HPI Baja they need to learn how to cut threads.
I also need to learn not to try persist with shot threads. Cause I ****ed it further;
uha3aqu8.jpg


So I am putting the wraith aside cause nothing shits me more then the memories of all the crap HR and GH products that I never used on the baja due to poor fitment or crap threads in crap material.

Sorry for the rant. Why don't vanquish make the wraith case for use with the axial dig? I'd buy it already if they did!
 
Ok calmed down over the weekend. Got a bottom tap (m3) today and have repaired the HR trans housing.
tara8etu.jpg

a5egy4ej.jpg


Fitted to the car along with the MIPs;
eju2eteh.jpg


I do however still have a slight issue.
You see when building my kit originally I had huge difficulties getting this bearing onto the rear output.
Now I can not get it off! So all the trans gears have been changed but not the lower.
How does one suggest removal of said bearing and did anyone else struggle with the same during their kit build?
8epyny6u.jpg
 
put it in a ziplock bag and put it in the freezer for a couple hours. then take it out and tap the shaft end that has the bearing on it, facing down towards a block of wood on a table or bench. Tap it fairly hard a few times and see if it will move..I have done this a number of times with success. tap the whole unit, don't tap on it with a hammer or anything.
 
put it in a ziplock bag and put it in the freezer for a couple hours. then take it out and tap the shaft end that has the bearing on it, facing down towards a block of wood on a table or bench. Tap it fairly hard a few times and see if it will move..I have done this a number of times with success. tap the whole unit, don't tap on it with a hammer or anything.

As Allanon said. Same can be done with automotive wheel bearings for installing in rear axle housings.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will try this when I put the dig components on.
Have not done much more to date.
Fitted the axial servo horn this morning.
Also filed the Shocks with 40wt oil and running proline springs up front.
Might get a change to go for a wheel today!
7uba5aju.jpg

ura7epar.jpg
 
Dig components have all arrived! Not yet got round to fitment as I need to upgrade my transmitter and that may be a long way off.

In the mean time here is an action shot of my POS at Coffs Harbour;
IMG_9543.jpg
 
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