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The Holmes Puller Pro BL 540XL 3500kv the YETI Grail?

You can order this off Holmes hobby and they solder for you and waterproof the esc?


Yep. It arrived to me in plug and play condition. Waterproofed and everything. They will even set your BEC to your desired voltage. Good stuff.
 
I might just get a tekin pro4 hd 3000kv or 2500kv if no one reply's
That's like saying I'm going to hit myself in the face if no one replies. Go ahead. I'll watch.:flipoff:

I've been running the PP BL 540XL with the Trailmaster BLE Pro in my 11 pound rock racer for about a week now and it's the best motor ESC combo I've tried to date. Considering how much lighter the Yeti is you will be FLYING with a decent gear ratio. My truck weighs so much I geared down to 11/57 at the trans to keep everything from being torn to pieces. I've ripped a link mount right off an Axial axle housing nailing it full throttle up a hill. This set up will destroy stock parts unless you exercise some trigger discipline. A Wild Boar drive shaft will last right up until you press that trigger...then it's a twizzler.

Have fun!
 
The regular 540 size also has PLENTY of power for the yeti. I like the 540xl better in it though, excess motor is always nice.

Punch control helps keep shafts happy if throttle control isn't your thing.
 
A non-HD version, it will be underpowered and run kinda hot. Still a great buy though, if you don't like it in the yeti it will work excellent in all sorts of other rigs.
 
I was finally able to compare my stock Axial one to Farmers HH one he installed. Same battery, similar weights. I'm using the RTR esc and motor. Farmer has the MMP and HH motor. Same pinion/spur. He is running the stock kit gears, im overdriven for now.

Very similar speeds, I might be a touch quicker but likely that's the gearing.

Torque is hands down to the HH motor. Mine might be gearing a bit, but I doubt it the HH is a torque monster and I don't think if I had the kit gearing would have made the Axial do that.
 
What gearing are you guys running with this motor? I am having some heat issues.

castle mmp with programming as suggested by Mr. Holmes
factory installed wiring on motor and esc. stock ratio diffs
64/14 steel spur and axial steel pinion
2200mah 35c 3s lipo

timed today after 5 min of cruising the driveway and messing around on a little rock pile motor was 135*
motor wires 126*
esc 148*

we do long trail runs and im worried that if it's this hot after only 5 min i will be in big trouble on 1-4 hour trail runs.

what to do? I was hoping for a lot more top end from the roc412 3100 I had before but if I gear down to what I had 12/64 it will be barely noticeable.

p.s. could someone post a video of their slow speed start up maybe with the pinion off? mine is rather coggy for a sensored motor. (and yes the sensore wire is plugged in and functional.)
 
You're using smart sense and all the connections are good?
Maybe you've got a bearing going bad?
 
I don't run that much timing. I think I'm at 2°.
My temps stay below 145 on the motor, and even lower on the ESC.
 
What gearing are you guys running with this motor? I am having some heat issues.

castle mmp with programming as suggested by Mr. Holmes
factory installed wiring on motor and esc. stock ratio diffs
64/14 steel spur and axial steel pinion
2200mah 35c 3s lipo

timed today after 5 min of cruising the driveway and messing around on a little rock pile motor was 135*
motor wires 126*
esc 148*

we do long trail runs and im worried that if it's this hot after only 5 min i will be in big trouble on 1-4 hour trail runs.

what to do? I was hoping for a lot more top end from the roc412 3100 I had before but if I gear down to what I had 12/64 it will be barely noticeable.

p.s. could someone post a video of their slow speed start up maybe with the pinion off? mine is rather coggy for a sensored motor. (and yes the sensore wire is plugged in and functional.)


The XL version isn't as smooth on startup as the 540 and 540S versions, as it is tuned for higher efficiency and torque. A vid of your startup may help diagnose if there is a problem, be sure it catches the sound as that tells a lot about how it is working.


You may try turning down the timing a bit, but your temps aren't out of line for getting into rocks considering the gearing. Everything will get to operating temp fairly quickly, and then stay at that level for the majority of your run. Since you are measuring motor temp from the wires, it is wicking some of the heat from the ESC and could be hotter than the motor can. 160f is totally safe for the motor (taken from can) and ESC (taken from the heatsink). 180f is on the higher end, but still safe. Above 200f the ESC will start glitching, and the motor is more likely to throw a mag at top rpms. The motor will run at 250f, but you won't be able to get it there before smoking the MMP.
 
thank you all for the advice! ran it in a trail comp yesterday for the first time. temp on the motor went to 145 for about the first 45 min then slowly dropped off to 115 the rest of the day. monstrous torque. I kept the 14/64 gearing.
 
Wanted to bump this thread for an edit on a previous post. I had the Pro4 stator length wrong based on old notes and wanted to correct it.

I did design this motor around being used in a Yeti as the primary function, so I can confirm it is a pretty dang good match.


For people wondering about the internal difference between a Pro4, Pro4 HD, and the Puller Pro XL, here are some numbers from our last measurements.


Stator length:

"Old Standard" 540 = 21mm


Puller Pro 540 S/ roc412/ Pro4 15mm
Puller Pro 540 24mm
pro4 HD 25mm
Puller Pro XL 34mm


Also look at the motor weights. 10 oz for the Puller XL. 7.8 ounces for the Pro4 HD. The difference is magnet, steel, and copper!
 
I wish you could get a Puller Pro XL rated for 4S around 2500-3000kv. Do you guys offer custom winds?
 
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