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Old 06-23-2014, 07:42 PM   #21
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Video yay!

That was my second run so I still had no idea wtf I was doing.


http://youtu.be/571yoxUtWak
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:38 PM   #22
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Tires went on today. 215/60/15's on the front and 265/50/15's out back. These won't be the hot setup for auto x but they'll work for the street for sure. I'll be going to 17" wheels with dedicated sticky tires for the track eventually.




The rears are stuffed! I had to pull a couple bolts that hold the inner fenders and bend the mounting tabs out before leaving the tire store. Got home and pulled the inner fenders completely out and took some bed side supports out so the bed can be flared some more to clear.







I went over to my friends place and we figured out my classing situation. I'll be running in FSP/t so I can do a whole lot of things to the truck that I haven't done yet. Picking up a rear sway bar today, I already have a panhard bar to put on it, I'll be ordering a new magnaflow with the inlet and outlet on the same side and a pair of belltech 3" drop leafs so I can get rid of the blocks and use a shorter block if I want to. I already have 3" drop spindles for the front along with urethane control arm bushings so everything will be nice and tight before the next local track day. I'm headed to another event next weekend so most of that list will have to wait but it'll be worth it.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:35 AM   #23
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So I've been busy dinking with the truck. The drop spindles are on, I pulled the middle leaf from the rear springs and turned the overload spring around so now it acts like slapper bars. I took the welded 4.10's out and put an open 4.56 V6 3rd in. With the taller tires the 4.56's are just fine down the freeway and the truck handles soooo much better with an open diff.

I need to order the drop leafs and get the frame notched to clear the axle. I pulled the bumpstops that were cut way down from the first round of suspension tweaking and replaced them with 5/8" heater hose.




The front end is sitting on the inner fenders in this pic. I had to turn the bars up 6 turns to drive the truck home but I removed the inner fenders tonight so I can drop it back down tomorrow after work.

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Old 08-10-2014, 07:18 PM   #24
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Spent a few hours at my brothers place again today and got the rear frame notched. It's so nice to be able to drive without slamming the frame or bumpstops on every little bump. Now there is enough travel so the shocks can do their job, I only touched the frame once coming home and it was on a real nasty spot so I'll let it slide. Need to make bumpstop brackets for the rear one of these days but when I finally save the coin for some nice adjustable shocks they probably won't be needed.






I'll have some parts showing up this week from summit. Ordered some exhaust pieces, spark plugs and a pair of Hella H4 headlight housings so I can pull the current non fluted lens housings out so I can stop being a ricer prick with my blinding headlights.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:13 AM   #25
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I like the lowered body look.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:23 AM   #26
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I like the look too but this time it's all about function. The lowered center of gravity makes a huge difference on the track. My 84 x cab is just lowered for pure looks. It doesn't even have a sway bar at all.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:14 PM   #27
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Ordered the rest of the parts for my exhaust yesterday, they are due tomorrow and I'm not working so I'll take the stuff to my brothers and get the craptastic sounding exhaust out of there in place of some sweet magnaflow harmony.

Getting rid of the low hanging, leak prone 3 bolt flange on the header in trade for this ball flange. I already have a 4' stick of 2 1/4" tubing, a 4" 2 1/4" mandrel bent U to cut apart leftover from the first exhaust build. I've been wanting to get the muffler back under the bed for ground clearance and to keep my ass from overheating so I finally just nutted up and paid the piper for this muffler that will let the exhaust come in the bottom and back out the top through this 2 1/2" tail pipe back out the hole in the side of the bed.

I'm hoping it sounds a lot like my old 78 toyota that had a standard magnaflow on it but it's hard to say till it's on. This muffler is a good bit smaller and it has 2 1/2" piping through it so it may be loud.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:15 PM   #28
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Time to get to work. \

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Old 08-22-2014, 06:10 PM   #29
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Only on the left coast will you find a 'Yota of this vintage with a chassis this solid. Around here, there's piles of rotted frames behind the dealerships body shops.
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:56 AM   #30
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Rotten toyota frames are pretty rare around here. Every once in awhile one will pop up that has spent too much time east of the rockies that you can spit through. But that's a simple fix since all of them in the wrecking yards are still sound.
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Old 08-23-2014, 01:36 AM   #31
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Feel ya on the rotted yotas. I gotta build a 95 from box corners and shit.


Keep them updates coming.
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:45 AM   #32
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I've been dealing with carb issues since I got the truck. I finally figured it all out yesterday. Apparently there was some crap built up on the linkage on the carb where I couldn't see it that was holding the throttle plates open slightly. Now it idles down correctly and the mixture screw actually does something now. I was figuring the issues were jet related so I was just waiting till I order the 9 lb flywheel and stage 3 clutch but changing the spark plugs raised the idle a few hundred rpm so I started searching for answers.


I added another mount to the exhaust today so now the tip will stop working it's way down. Finished a couple welds I'd missed on the top of the tail pipe too. I'm as happy as could be with the exhaust now.
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:00 PM   #33
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Sway bars are fawking cool.



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Old 08-27-2014, 09:35 PM   #34
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Default Re: AutoX toy truck

As a final tuning device, sure. What's up with the chains?
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:15 PM   #35
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The chains held the axle at ride height so I could easily mount the sway bar links at the correct 90* angle to the bar. Kinda hack but I couldn't think of a better way to do it.




Once I get the adjustable proportioning valve in and remove the load valve I'll have room for the panhard bar behind the axle which will be another welcome addition.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:23 PM   #36
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Alright, acceptable. Making sure you're not doing ghetto ass limiting straps.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:55 PM   #37
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Nah, if I needed limiting straps I have a few sets leftover from the wheeling days that I can shorten easily enough.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:30 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH View Post
The chains held the axle at ride height so I could easily mount the sway bar links at the correct 90* angle to the bar. Kinda hack but I couldn't think of a better way to do it.




Once I get the adjustable proportioning valve in and remove the load valve I'll have room for the panhard bar behind the axle which will be another welcome addition.
Definately one of the best mods i ever did to my old leaf sprung track car
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:40 AM   #39
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I don't see any downsides to a panhard bar. It'll be needed with these wide tires and especially with sticky track tires. I got away with a lot due to luck before. I only had 195/60's and a welded rear end so I didn't get any side twisting warbling from the leafs, it just stepped out and drifted a bit instead. I don't have the horsepower to do that with the 265's.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:36 AM   #40
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I used to run big heavy Fords with big tyres and with out a panhard bar they would shimmy and dance thru even smooth corners , hit bumps mid corner and you just held on and hoped for the best
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