My Frogger Buildup

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Aussie Nerd

Just get them made with a bigger hole and run axial knuckle bushed. That is what I did on one of my drag links, you tighten it as much as you like and it still is smooth.

Kieren

Kieren, I am really liking this idea. I will give that a try for sure.

Casey

Originally Posted by ram_tough

Looking Good Casey. How are the 3Racing CVD's holding up, especially now with Holmes Power and the Mayhem wheels?

3Racing CVDs....still wrapped up. I am waiting for my new axle housings. Right now, I still have the dogbones, unmodified, and they have been holding up fine with heavy weighted Mayhems. However, that was just with a 35 turn machinewound motor.

I got it running last night again with the new motor and ESC. I love my steering too.

[KC_JoNeS]

Well, I romped it around the living room for a few minutes last night.
Thoughts for the moment:

1. Lower links are a bit too close together, and the driveshaft touches one during articulation. I could also clock the axle a bit more.
2. Steering feels good right now. I will put bushings in the tie rod, and give that a try too. I have a few to play with.
3. The speed control with brake...WOW! The BR-XL is awesome!
4. The motor is super controllable. I now understand why people would go for a 35T. These things have so much control in any position. But, mine is sparking, which means I need to advance the timing just a bit....maybe 2.5 degrees or so.
5. Got to finish the wiring cleanup.
6. Will get dig installed when it arrives.

Casey

[scorpion ax-10]

i like em

[Sharkey]

looks good. as for the steering linkage, i used axial knuckle bushings in my bta, however i found that if i left the screws slightly loose so the bushings moved free i had a fair bit of slop, and tightened right up it wore the link bar out fairly quick, and im again faced with sloppy steering. i plan to use rod ends and build a different link

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Sharkey

looks good. as for the steering linkage, i used axial knuckle bushings in my bta, however i found that if i left the screws slightly loose so the bushings moved free i had a fair bit of slop, and tightened right up it wore the link bar out fairly quick, and im again faced with sloppy steering. i plan to use rod ends and build a different link

I think the secret here is to incorporate some kind of plastic "bushing" into the system or even a small flanged bearing to take the place of the "bushings" which rub against the soft aluminum, grit gets in, and you guess the rest

I think what it really boils down to is 'looks over performance' in the long run... what looks good isn't always going to last. I guess for bashing around the local rock pile a lil slop isn't the end of the world, but then again im picky

Not bashing your design Casey, just looking for ways to improve it. I did see one guy on his MOA who mounted the servo on the draglink itself, it was probably the BADDEST thing ive ever seen, now that got me thinking with this stuff

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Sharkey

looks good. as for the steering linkage, i used axial knuckle bushings in my bta, however i found that if i left the screws slightly loose so the bushings moved free i had a fair bit of slop, and tightened right up it wore the link bar out fairly quick, and im again faced with sloppy steering. i plan to use rod ends and build a different link

Ultimately, that seems like the best solution.

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I think the secret here is to incorporate some kind of plastic "bushing" into the system or even a small flanged bearing to take the place of the "bushings" which rub against the soft aluminum, grit gets in, and you guess the rest

I think what it really boils down to is 'looks over performance' in the long run... what looks good isn't always going to last. I guess for bashing around the local rock pile a lil slop isn't the end of the world, but then again im picky

Not bashing your design Casey, just looking for ways to improve it. I did see one guy on his MOA who mounted the servo on the draglink itself, it was probably the BADDEST thing ive ever seen, now that got me thinking with this stuff

You dont have to worry about hurting my feelings. If I am not corrected on my mistakes, how am I supposed to learn? Anyway, I will compile the feedback given, and try to incorporate a solution.

Thanks.

Casey

[Crawling Calvin]

Well put, I "help" (ok im a student...) in a machine shop class and lets say some of these people can be interesting when you tell them 'no not to do it like that"

I will say experimenting tells you "what works and what doesn't" I think your best bet against friction is:
Bearing/teflon "bushings" on one, or both sides. The bearings are there for a reason, as well as the teflon "bushing" (very slippery right ) should deal with any issues.

Aah do remember if you clock in negative caster (eeh -10* works good from vert with the knuckles) you WILL have to deal with the "tierod" banging into the shocks more. There are ways around that, but just a warning Negative caster helps improve turning by providing more traction, even though i never increased my throw, putting in negative caster sure made a heck of a difference in how my car turns, without CVD's or a super powered servo

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Aah do remember if you clock in negative caster (eeh -10* works good from vert with the knuckles) you WILL have to deal with the "tierod" banging into the shocks more. There are ways around that, but just a warning Negative caster helps improve turning by providing more traction, even though i never increased my throw, putting in negative caster sure made a heck of a difference in how my car turns, without CVD's or a super powered servo

Speaking of that, where is your build thread? I figured with you in a machine shop, you'd have all sorts of interesting goodies to show us on your rig. Other than the CNC'd chassis picture in your "Comp Legal" thread, I have yet to see any producton. Just getting everything ready still?

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by gunnar

Speaking of that, where is your build thread? I figured with you in a machine shop, you'd have all sorts of interesting goodies to show us on your rig. Other than the CNC'd chassis picture in your "Comp Legal" thread, I have yet to see any producton. Just getting everything ready still?

Funny you ask Gunnar... I keep forgetting to order my DELRIN! Aaah will do, ive also been busy with the start of college classes/vacation where I did some "secret testing" so sometime next week, once I get the stuff bashed out, ill start a build thread. Trust me, it isn't all forgotten. That said, some stuff is best "kept secret" till you test it and see what happens. Lets say the upcoming car's name should be good

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Funny you ask Gunnar... I keep forgetting to order my DELRIN! Aaah will do, ive also been busy with the start of college classes/vacation where I did some "secret testing" so sometime next week, once I get the stuff bashed out, ill start a build thread. Trust me, it isn't all forgotten. That said, some stuff is best "kept secret" till you test it and see what happens. Lets say the upcoming car's name should be good

Alrighty then, I guess we'll all be kept "in suspense" till your baby is ready.

For KC: You could try a combination of an Axial steering bushing(I call them "top hats" for obvious reasons) along with a steel insert (simple tube)pressed into the aluminium of your sexily curved tierod. It would take some work, but when greased, it would last a lot longer before slop sets in.

I tried flange bearings once, but stay away from the tiny Duratrax 3X6 ones, they are much too weak.

Oh yea, forgot, if you ever break the 3 Racing cvd pin, just get some .078 music wire, 10mm long fits just right

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by gunnar

For KC: You could try a combination of an Axial steering bushing(I call them "top hats" for obvious reasons) along with a steel insert (simple tube)pressed into the aluminium of your sexily curved tierod. It would take some work, but when greased, it would last a lot longer before slop sets in.

Oh yea, forgot, if you ever break the 3 Racing cvd pin, just get some .078 music wire, 10mm long fits just right

Thanks gunnar. I tried drilling a tie rod out for the top hats, but I only have a 4mm drill bit. I need something like a 4.5mm or 5mm. Time to go to the store.

Thanks for the head's up on the CVDs.

[shelby]

I thought that the esc you have was rated for a 6s. How come you had to put a BEC in it?

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by shelby

I thought that the esc you have was rated for a 6s. How come you had to put a BEC in it?

It is rated up to 25 volt input, yes....but, the internal BEC is rated at around 5 to 6 amps...something like that. I run a 7950 and a 5645 on my setup, so I use an external BEC for the steering, and the internal for the dig....that is, when I get my dig.

Casey

[shelby]

Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS

It is rated up to 25 volt input yet....but, the internal BEC is rated at around 5 to 6 amps...something like that. I run a 7950 and a 5645 on my setup, so I use an external BEC for the steering, and the internal for the dig....that is, when I get my dig.

Casey

Oh, so it can handle the volts but not the amps it drawing from the two servos combined?

[Sharkey]

the 7950 is a high voltage servo, it can take 7.4 volts. running the bec direct to the servo will allow it to run at its max voltage for optimal speed and torque. the 5645 on the other hand does not run on more than 6 volts, so running the internal bec on the esc will provide proper voltage for it and the receiver

[KC_JoNeS]

Well, I went to the store today and got some drill bits and misc. crap. The drill bit needed to use the Axial top hats is 4.5mm. Here is the top hats pressed into the tie rod.



The knuckles are threaded, but just to be sure, I mounted some nylocks on the bottom along with some blue loctite. There is also some plastic washers on the top of the tie rod because the screw stays set in the knuckle.



Next up is the rear end. I made the following changes:

1. Installed HD 43/13 gears for underdrive.
2. Installed 3Racing CVDs in the rear. (decided not to run these in the front)
3. Installed 3Racing dual bearing axle lockouts.



I got all the wiring done, and buttoned up a bunch of issues.
I flipped the shocks back to upright as I needed a bit more clearance for the large diameter lower links.
I adjusted the weight in the wheels. The fronts have 2 ball bearings, and the rears have none.

My overall weight right now is just over 6.4 lbs, and that is without my dig and second servo. :shrug

[KC_JoNeS]

Got some more detailed pics up close.

[Crawling Calvin]

Lookin goooooood How much you running in terms of weight in the tires, or any So hows the Delrin work, or yet to try it, and nice work using the top hat bushings... now we need video proof

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Lookin goooooood How much you running in terms of weight in the tires, or any So hows the Delrin work, or yet to try it, and nice work using the top hat bushings... now we need video proof

I did take alot of weight out of the tires...the fronts originally had 4 balls each...I took those out. Then I moved those to the rear. The rears had 2 balls, I moved those to the front. I'm actually talking to 99RAM about getting some sick rims made. My rovers will get here today, and then I can have a heavy set of wheels and tires for some terrain, and some light stuff for floating.

I have yet to romp on this setup. I just got it buttoned up last night, and it was raining. I did get a bit of couch crawling, but that is not the makings of good video.

I am looking for an HD camcorder. Will try to pick one up (convince the wife to buy one) this weekend.

Casey