Cliffhanger's FF-4 build in process

[billj]

Originally Posted by gunnar

Pretty wide angle on the uppers also, looks like your close to maxing out the travel on the rod end ball at the chassis. I'd lower that chassis mounting point down one or two holes also.

Don't look at my FF-4 thread, you'll go crazy.

Mount the front uppers inside the chassis

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

Ok so i tried to do upper link biger by udjusting rodends and deepness off the set screw and what i find out is tha if i make rods longer both plates front and rear are turning(angling) towords ground.So i don't know if making them longer would be a solution.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

The plates can be angled at the ground, it is a non issue except the front where you will need clockable c's to straighten out the caster.

Both my front and rear plates are angled towards the ground, and my rig drives amazing!

Good pinion angle is far more important than the plat angle.

[cliffhanger007]

here are the pictures how it looks













front place is on a good angle i don't know how steering would go i might need to bent steering rod.
I move some position on the chassis and also moved rear shocksat the axle.
hope it look better i'm going nuts

[cliffhanger007]

did anyone runs FF-4 without shock springs?
I heard that guy's here run at competition no springs!

[RickM]

I think you are suggesting running droop. I know a lot of folks talk about running different droop setups but I don't think anyone on here has made an effort to run one droop. We always need a first but if it is not working don't take it out on Juan as this is one really great chassis.

[cliffhanger007]

So here is my final set up i'll run this next week.need to instal electronics and i'm ready to crawl
So i spend some time to play with links gone throght 4' of 5/16 delrin and 2' of 1/4 delrin till i figurate out the proper and good length it has been a great learning curve for sure but i love it
I tried to bend some delrin but didn't workout quite well shafts in the way i guees i put a bit big angle 30 deg.(way big of an angle for sure!!!) next time when i'll play around i'll try like 15!
Also i changed springs all around the softest i could find 1.7 lbs. the shocks are now butter smooth
With my last springs i wasn't able to do the CD tower angle but now no problem.
The clearence from the bottom of the table to the bottom of the chassis is 2 3/4".

I'm very happy with the out come Big thanks goes to Richard who helped me big time with all my way too many question thanks again really appriciate that.And also thanks to others crawlers for input it was valueable ass well thanks again to everyone.
And here are the pictures:

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

Happy to help, now a bit more to add. Flip your skid plate around, facing the spur forward and the motor on the right side of the chassis. this will move more weight forward and as EeePee found out originally for us, the motor on the right side helps fight torque twist

I would also add a couple millimeters of shims under the rear upper links where the connect to the rear plate, it will rule out any possibility of upper link binding.

[crazyorigin]

I am running my front shocks as droop shocks (no springs) and rear one pair is full droop reverse sprung and the other pair as sprung (its not a conventional setup, nor is it done, just ordered my ESC so I am getting closer). My truck is gonna be pretty whacky compared to most others but hopefully it will crawl like a baby tweaked on pixie sticks.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by crazyorigin

hopefully it will crawl like a baby tweaked on pixie sticks.

[cliffhanger007]

Ok sa i swap the motor the other way to prevent torque twist but i had to cut a bit front axle becouse it was binding and the rear axle is only 1cm (overlap) inside the housing is that enough?
If not how can i extend the overlaping point for more than 1cm?
Also when i swap the motor around i had to put my front upper links from inside on outside of the frame.

Also DickyT how long are yours bent bottom rear & front links from eye to eye?Thanks

[cliffhanger007]

Also DickyT i wos wondering how to order MIP driveshafts since you mention that you use the litle one which is ment for dig in the front and what did you use for rear can you give me part number for that?Thanks a lot cheers

[DickyT]

Links: Fronts are 4 1/4" end center to end center, Rears are 5 1/16"

For the rear shaft 1 cm may be a bit little. You can extend the female portion of the shaft some. Cut about 3/4 off of the female side, cut a spare male shaft about 15mm long. Epoxy half of the male shaft into the female. Cut the joint end off of a spare female shaft and epoxy that to the remaining male section, and use a regular male end to complete the shaft.

Or you can put in a dig and it will make up the difference, you may even need to trim a bit.

I ordered mine direct from MIP.

[cliffhanger007]

Originally Posted by DickyT

Links: Fronts are 4 1/4" end center to end center, Rears are 5 1/16"

How do you make the bent links you cut delrin to the to the length mention above and then bent them???

[billj]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

How do you make the bent links you cut delrin to the to the length mention above and then bent them???

I found its easier to bend first, then cut the ends

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by billj

I found its easier to bend first, then cut the ends

Cut the pieces long, make your bend, cut the pieces down to with ends on, the length is what you want eye to eye.

[cliffhanger007]

Ok sounds good so the length of the rod with the bend is 5 1/16 and 4 1/4"???

[DickyT]

No, the center of eye to center of eye length of the bent rod plus rod ends is 5 1/16" and 4 1/4".

[cliffhanger007]

here is the bent links:
i noticed that the axle is not protected when the links are bented is that normal???

[DickyT]

Yes, it will be a bit unprotected, depending on where you put the bent you can limit that. Mine is past the tires before the unprotected part.

[flapjack]

yep thats normal....although you may want to clock you rear pinion angle a bit so you dont shred your drive shaft..........it looks like it is exposed from the pics....been running mine that way for ever....works great for me.....listen to dickyt....he knows his rigs......also the drive shaft issue...if your not going to run a dig....use a rc4wd adater from the r2 transmission....its the one from the dig version....iot will add about 6-7mm to the rear output shaft.....its aluminum but i havent broken mine on my scaler yet