fred0000's sportsman build

[fred0000]

some of you may remember "fred000's tuber" it was a pretty slick crawler for what it was, I was a bit bummed to decide to part it out/take it apart to build a more "comp" sportsman rig, but I fell it will be a good step in the right direction, when I build the tuber I wasn't really interested in comps, now all I can even think about is comps.

I started with a CF slingshot chassis I got from a member here, this chassis is awesome.





I used all the stock axial links I had on my tuber, the lowers needed to be trimmed ALOT, still need a bit of trimming, but i'm still waiting for my m3 tap, my wheelbase is at 12.5" at ride, and about 1/8" longer compressed. so its close.





I will have more pics and details throughout the build, i'm still waiting on a few things, but there is still a few things I can do while I wait.

[Jeepkid]

I want to see it with tires on it
All kidding aside, it looks like a sick sporty in the works.
Keep it coming man

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

I want to see it with tires on it
All kidding aside, it looks like a sick sporty in the works.
Keep it coming man

pics uploading, you're just saying that cause you know I dont have wheels for it haha.

a few more specs.

CF slingshot chassis
castle sidewinder ESC
castle BEC
hitec 7954SH servo
tekin T35 motor
overdrive front gears
golden horizons C-Hubs
golden horizons knuckles
losi mini shocks
losi grapler pro body
MIP CVD's with gunnar pins
MIP driveshafts
spectrum SR3300T RX
gunnar body mount
1000mah 3s lipo's
stock Berg wheels
pink dot rover's
beef toobs in the front axle
robinson racing solid outputs
HR stainless steel idler gear

[Crawling Calvin]

Wow that's amaaaaaaaaaazing! I think it needs some Delrin links tho [im addicted to that stuff for lower links, that's me though ]

Why pink rovers, do they work good where your at or that's what you like

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Wow that's amaaaaaaaaaazing! I think it needs some Delrin links tho [im addicted to that stuff for lower links, that's me though ]

Why pink rovers, do they work good where your at or that's what you like

thanks, i'm thinking I may go delrin links one day, these links will hold me off and be perfect for getting lengths.
I went with pink rovers cause while waiting for my white rovers I went to the LHS one day and that actualy had a set of HB tires, they were pink rovers, they work great for me on my AX10, white rovers are on my XR10.

installed my driveshafts, front angle is a little steep but should be fine.



grapler body.



with wheels/tires just for jeepkid





I am using losi mini shocks, I filled a 3mm rod end and drilled it for the mini shocks, worked great, I have some 3racing mini shocks on the way that have a removable shock cap, it will get a rod end mod and inboarded on the chassis, for now fuel tubing bushings.

[Jeepkid]

with wheels/tires just for jeepkid



Why thankyou good sir. It looks awsome, your vision is coming to reality.
Whats the beelly clearence?

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

Why thankyou good sir. It looks awsome, your vision is coming to reality.
Whats the beelly clearence?

with the XR10 wheel/tire/foam it is 3 1/8" in the center of the skid. it should be fairly close with the W/T/F combo I will be running.
that pic really shows how exposed the front driveshaft is, I hope it won't be to much of an issue.

[Jeepkid]

You will have no issue with those MIP shaft on there. If you can clock the pinion angle a bit you would be good too. Get some of those clockable CHubs for it and you can mess with the C clocking.

[DioptricStraw]

Have you thought of modding the front axle with the beef tubes to get more clocking/make the driveshaft angle better





Here is the mod i did on my sportsman rig (sporting your old tires)

It makes the steering setup i little bit of a pain, but the extra clocking with the drive shaft angle up like that is soooooo nice.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

You will have no issue with those MIP shaft on there. If you can clock the pinion angle a bit you would be good too. Get some of those clockable CHubs for it and you can mess with the C clocking.

I just had a thought, with the new shocks that are coming with a rod end mod top and bottom the shocks will be longer, and the driveshaft is already maxxed out, I dont really want to limit the stroke of the shock since its so short as it is, and I dont want to lay them down since they are already almost to soft...

Originally Posted by DioptricStraw

Have you thought of modding the front axle with the beef tubes to get more clocking/make the driveshaft angle better


Here is the mod i did on my sportsman rig (sporting your old tires)

It makes the steering setup i little bit of a pain, but the extra clocking with the drive shaft angle up like that is soooooo nice.

thats a good idea, i'll have to keep it in mind for sure.

I may have to sacrafice some castor for a happier pinion angle. i'll have to wait and see till my new shocks get here and mod them.

[Crawling Calvin]

I have some home made axle tubes and I use them mostly for the ability to clock the front to gain extra steering. Nothing beats it

[Highlucks]

Looks the goods man,

Some longer uppers in the front will help your pinion angle a lot. This will add negative castor to your Knuckles but that can be corrected with some of Casey/Gunnar's Beef Toobs. As for leaving your drive shaft like that because it is strong and can handle it. Thats not really the point, you want a level surface behind the axle the drive shaft will just be a pivot point to fall off and catch on.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by highlucks

Looks the goods man,

Some longer uppers in the front will help your pinion angle a lot. This will add negative castor to your Knuckles but that can be corrected with some of Casey/Gunnar's Beef Toobs. As for leaving your drive shaft like that because it is strong and can handle it. Thats not really the point, you want a level surface behind the axle the drive shaft will just be a pivot point to fall off and catch on.

thanks, there is a hole in the chassis more forward for the upperlink I will move the uppers to, it has beef toobs in it, I may consider clocking it more once its up and running. the finalized shocks will be a hair longer which kinda sucks, its high enough as it is, but we'll see what can be done once I have them in my hands.
the drive shaft being an anchor was really buggin me, but I thought having that much castor was just awesome

[shelby]

Very pimp!

Me like.

[Jeepkid]

Originally Posted by fred0000

thanks, there is a hole in the chassis more forward for the upperlink I will move the uppers to, it has beef toobs in it, I may consider clocking it more once its up and running. the finalized shocks will be a hair longer which kinda sucks, its high enough as it is, but we'll see what can be done once I have them in my hands.
the drive shaft being an anchor was really buggin me, but I thought having that much castor was just awesome

Ahhhhh, just limit the shocks and you should be good.

[fred0000]

laying the shocks down shouldnt be a problem, the suspension is way to soft though, I dont know if you can get differnt springs that fit the losi mini shocks, I may have to go with 3.5" big bores, I do have some 3racing losi mini shocks on the way with threaded shock bodies.

here is a pic of a mini shock with 3mm rod ends on either end.



and some "as it sits now" pics

[murderface]

yes you can get different springs for mini shocks i say get a set of the mini t springs fronts and rears and use some plastic washers to make up your own dual rate since the mini t springs come in 3 stiffnesses and are readily available at pretty much any hobby shop

[Highlucks]

Wow man she is going to sit very tall, is there a way you can get you lowers parallel to the skid.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by murderface

yes you can get different springs for mini shocks i say get a set of the mini t springs fronts and rears and use some plastic washers to make up your own dual rate since the mini t springs come in 3 stiffnesses and are readily available at pretty much any hobby shop

good to know, I think i'll be needing some stiffer springs for sure.

Originally Posted by highlucks

Wow man she is going to sit very tall, is there a way you can get you lowers parallel to the skid.

if I had stiffer springs I could lay the shocks down more and get the height down a bit, the servo hits the body as it sits now, and so will the battery where I want to put it. it might be ok? it is tall though. i'd like to test it out.

I got the body mounted up using Gunnars body mount kit. 2 posts in the back, one up front.
also has XR10 wheels/tires mocked on so I can mark out where I want to trim the body.
(the front of the body has been lowered since these pics)

[Jeepkid]

Yeah, on my body the servo and battery in front hit the body. It still works fine for me. I think you will be fine with it sitting lower in the front,
still want to see pics of the body on it low.