Reinventing my AX10...(again) Sucker Punch Chassis time.

[Master Basher]

Progress pics. I'll talk about some of these later, I'm busy right now.

My rear extended MIP driveshaft finally came in and now I can finish the links and progress! 4wd finally!

1/8th inch front lower links seemed like such a great idea with as short a link length as I'm running up there, but when I threaded the 6-32 link end into the traxxas link and watched the plastic deform I was less than enthused about its chances for survival. 5-40 is a better thread end for the plastic imo, but then you sacrafice the rod end strength... my 5-40 die is trash now anyway. Maybe the answer is to drill out the rod end just a fuzz. Ill see soon because ill be running 1/8" e erywhere except the rear lowers. The straight steering tie will be plenty strong at 1/8", but it's when you put anything more than just a very minor bend on the rod anywbere it becomes a flex issue.

The rear wheel width is too narrow at 9.5ish...gotta put some wider hubs on, front is wide at 11.5ish. Gonna leave the front alone for now though. Wheelbase is now 1/4" too long after extending the front lowers to get a more level servo as rowdy and cl advised. Gonna cut some 4mm straight links shorter on the rear to compensate. Comp this weekend will let me test her out if I can shore it all up this week and have her ready.




















It steers like this with stock vanquish wraith arms and dlux shafts:


I think that I will like it. It appears to have maybe 10* more steering than my stock bully2 setup.

[Master Basher]

If I were building a front axle set like this again, I would not use the ribbed end on the beef tubes. I would use a smooth end and use different chubs. Im not happy with set positions for caster. I would like to dial in between what the ridges allow. One rib more is too much caster for my steering setup.

[winnerone23]

You can do that now.

Mark the in between spline on ur axle housing (where you would want ur caster to be). Pull the screw's out of the tubes that attach it to ur housing and ur C's off. Rotate the tubes 90° and line them up with where you want ur caster to be, drill holes, and zip ur screw's back in. Bam! It's exactly how you want it...

[Master Basher]

We got a roller..


The body off my old bully will do for now. Gotta have something for Saturday.

[AddictedtoRC1]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

1/8th inch front lower links seemed like such a great idea with as short a link length as I'm running up there, but when I threaded the 6-32 link end into the traxxas link and watched the plastic deform I was less than enthused about its chances for survival. 5-40 is a better thread end for the plastic imo, but then you sacrafice the rod end strength...

Which rod ends are you using? I've been threading all my 1/8" with 6-32 and never had any issue just threading them on.

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by AddictedtoRC1

Which rod ends are you using? I've been threading all my 1/8" with 6-32 and never had any issue just threading them on.

[IMG]http://buy.traxxas.com/images/products/5349.jpgIMG]

I use the same ones. I noticed bulging out of the plastic ends when threading though, and that worries me a little. My 6-32 ends are 3.3mm diameter, and my 5-40 ends are 3.1mm. that is enough to notice bulging, or expansion of the plastic. I would rather not see that.

It might be fine though.

[Master Basher]

Real proud of these babies. They are gonna shore up my rear wheelbase and look good doing it:

[Master Basher]

I like it.

[josh6575]

I really like the smooth slow bend of your rear lower links. How did you accomplish that?

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by josh6575

I really like the smooth slow bend of your rear lower links. How did you accomplish that?

I used a roller bender that I have access to. I put a whole stick of 3/16" gr5 ti rod in it and started conservatively and ran it through several times to get the amount of bend that I wanted.

The threading of the rod ends came afterward, and was a little bit difficult to get right because of the slight bend radius, but it came out nicely.


Pm me if u have a need.

[AddictedtoRC1]

Did you thread those with a 10/32?

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by AddictedtoRC1

Did you thread those with a 10/32?

Yes, with the die closed all the way.

[Master Basher]

Progress Pics. shocks and springs lined out, new rear 4 link plate, curved upper rear links, slipper eliminator, 80/16 48p gearing (52/10 32p didn't fit Crawlife, not sure how you got it to work on yours), some crawler innov. foams.

Been experimenting with link and pinion positions. Lots of variance. Tuning is going to be fun.

[winnerone23]

56/10 gearing is what I'm goin to have to say Crawllife is running.. Maybe 56/11(this is what I'm running) ..

Rear shocks look a little long? Rear sits high..

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

56/10 gearing is what I'm goin to have to say Crawllife is running.. Maybe 56/11(this is what I'm running) ..

Rear shocks look a little long? Rear sits high..

Right now I'm using xlong big bores in the rear and long in front.. I thought id want a little longer but I dont have any wheel time in to know.

[winnerone23]

Chassis was prolly designed around a 3.5" shock, I believe..
When I built one for Marzzz23, the scx in the rear got limited some and fronts more..

Shorter shocks equal lower cog.. Better side hilling and vertical climbs.

digging the links!

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Chassis was prolly designed around a 3.5" shock, I believe..
When I built one for Marzzz23, the scx in the rear got limited some and fronts more..

Shorter shocks equal lower cog.. Better side hilling and vertical climbs.

digging the links!

THanks!

Just swapped the rears out and I still have more underbelly clearance than both of my pro rigs and it brings the rear down a nice bit.


Tried the wall climb at the house immediately after and it went further up at an angle without falling on its' lid!

[Master Basher]

My moonbuggy is all ready to run... notice I didn't say finished. A rig is never "finished".

















This will give me a good look at the mechanics and movements while I tune it out and make a body for it. So body requirements are 8" long by 3" wide and 3" tall now? It sure seems like most run a lot more body than that nowadays. Why is that?

[Master Basher]

Whoever can guess what I see as the biggest mechanical weakness, I'll award an A+ to.

It has one particular weakness that needs to be addressed.

It ain't in the drivetrain.

[Dostradamas]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

Whoever can guess what I see as the biggest mechanical weakness, I'll award an A+ to.

It has one particular weakness that needs to be addressed.

It ain't in the drivetrain.

I would likely break the rear upper shock mount pretty quick.
Mechanical weakness meaning a underperforming area or a physically weak point (as in it could break easily?)