Best Screw Extractor?

[Shinobid]

So I pulled a dumb dumb on Saturday night during my build (Yes, I had a few beers in me ). I installed the rear end to the skid, had the cage sitting there glaring at me, wanting to be installed before I finished the front end... so I did.. and then I got up the next morning and tried pulling the screws out to pull the cage back off and the screw heads started rounding out, so now I can't get them out.. Building with the updated RCScrews Stainless steel screw kit..

So.. My question is if any of you guys can recommend a good quality extractor that will be able to reach into the chassis holes and get these buggers outta there?

Yes, I already googled it.. hard to tell from the pictures online, so I am hoping someone here has experienced the same thing.

[RMIII]

That sounds pretty terrible. Stainless is pretty soft so it doesn't surprise me though. Are there screw heads exposed? You could try cutting a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a regular flat tipped screwdriver. Next to impossible to drill and extract screws on that small scale. Good luck to you and let us know what you ultimately do/did to resolve this.

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[Shinobid]

Originally Posted by RMIII

That sounds pretty terrible. Stainless is pretty soft so it doesn't surprise me though. Are there screw heads exposed? You could try cutting a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a regular flat tipped screwdriver. Next to impossible to drill and extract screws on that small scale. Good luck to you and let us know what you ultimately do/did to resolve this.

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These are the screws that hold the chassis on to the skid.. recessed in holes... making me nervous. Cant get to them at all with a dremel or anything else...

[Brake Weight]

I got a set of small left handed drill bits somewhere years ago. May or may not work in this case.

I have used a small eyeglass flathead screw driver and beat it into the wallowed hex and was able to back it out one time. Ruined the screwdriver in the process though.

[Shinobid]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I got a set of small left handed drill bits somewhere years ago. May or may not work in this case.

I have used a small eyeglass flathead screw driver and beat it into the wallowed hex and was able to back it out one time. Ruined the screwdriver in the process though.

I can replace a ruined screw driver. I'll try that when I get home tonight. So frustrating how locked in they are.

[TheLetterJ]

Try a torx bit that is slightly too big and hammer it in there. In the case of Allen head bolts, it'll grab a lot more real estate than a screwdriver. Though usually reserved for softening loctite, it might be worth a shot using the point of a soldering iron on the screw for a few minutes to heat it up in an attempt to soften the plastics to loosen their hold on said screw. You'll probably only get one shot at it before things go from bad to worse, so I'd recommend taking your time and employ as many methods of extraction at the same time as reasonably possible.

[Shinobid]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Try a torx bit that is slightly too big and hammer it in there. In the case of Allen head bolts, it'll grab a lot more real estate than a screwdriver. Though usually reserved for softening loctite, it might be worth a shot using the point of a soldering iron on the screw for a few minutes to heat it up in an attempt to soften the plastics to loosen their hold on said screw. You'll probably only get one shot at it before things go from bad to worse, so I'd recommend taking your time and employ as many methods of extraction at the same time as reasonably possible.

I like the torx bit idea! The risk of melting the plastic idea, not so much.. LOL. I will try the torx bit tonight for sure.

[Shinobid]

Thanks everybody. I ended up drilling them off with a drill bit and then flexing the cage off and used vice grips to twist the remainders out. Sucks, but I'll just go with the stock screws when I finish the build and hopefully wony run into this issue again...

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[m59y]

I know you've already fixed your issue, but for reference, these work well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFM3Q5Y

[Shinobid]

Originally Posted by m59y

I know you've already fixed your issue, but for reference, these work well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFM3Q5Y

Thanks man! Drilling the heads off wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. I'm planning to install the cage to the chassis with cap heads instead of button heads when I finish the build. Stronger, less chance of this happening again if and when I need to pull the cage off again.

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[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by m59y

I know you've already fixed your issue, but for reference, these work well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFM3Q5Y

Oh, how I could have used something like this MANY times in the past for normal household "problems". Thankfully, I haven't needed anything like these for RC...yet...but there may come a day when I do. As much as I dislike Amazon, I'll be ordering these. Thanks for the suggestion.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Col_Sanders]

This is one of the downsides of stainless hardware. Its soft, which means the heads strip easier and they also bend easier. A high quality set of hex drivers (MIP) will help alleviate the issue with the heads. I know it is much more fun to spend that $$ on some upgrades for your crawler than it is on some hex wrenches, but in the end it will pay off.