NEW:Axial 1/18 Capra

[Chubby5000]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

I’ve got an honest (rookie) question here: I’ve got a Quicrun 1080 ESC (and new Rx) and I was thinking of throwing it on the TRX4M but would it make any difference at all with respect to the slow speed crawling using 2s batteries? Or would it ONLY make a difference if I went up to 3s.
Stock gearing (because North America is currently sold out of the low speed gears). I’ve got brass axle extensions on it but the tires still constantly bind-up on the body. And they bind up even in moderate torque situations.
I just don’t want to pull everything out and resolder the motor wires to the new ESC if it doesn’t solve the low speed torque issues. Sorry if that was rambly.


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Aaaaaaaaaaaand wrong thread. I’m a dummy.


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[Chubby5000]

Another question:
Does anyone know the compound of the stock tires?
It seems everyone online is swapping out the stock wheels and tires (and sometimes) because they’re “no good”.
Is this mostly subjective?
The stock tires seem fine to me but I can’t find anything online that alludes to the actual compound.
It’s going to cost me about 160 Maple Syrups to try out some stickier rubber (cheap beadlocks and some Proline Class 0 BFG Krawler T/A KX Predator 1.9” tires) but I’d be fine just using the stock rubber if the traction gains are nominal.


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[Chubby5000]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

Hey KD, this is ONLY speculation, but I believe these should fit:

And this is based off my HIGHLY scientific armchair hypothesis:

Battery: (LxWxH)
eBay replacement: 55 x 31 x 16
Stock Spektrum 2s: 58 x 32 x 20

Please note that I haven’t tried this and don’t even have the UTB18 yet though. I’m waiting for my LHS to get it in so I can buy it from them. But I’ve been looking at the dimensions of the stock batteries and other batteries in it that I’ve spied on YouTube videos. And West Desert Wheeler is using a Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 G1 ESC in his with a 3s lipo and it seems to run very well.


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Also, I accidentally ordered 4 of these (two too many) and they fit easily.
On my Axial Capra UTB18 I’m getting 70-90 minutes of runtime per pack.
This is with the stock motor and Hobbywing 1080 esc.


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[King Dork]

Chubby5000, good find! I did end up getting 2 Zee 650mah 100c 3s packs. They’re the same length as the stock 2s hardcase but a couple mm less in width and height. Haven’t run them yet. Waiting to order an esc/motor, and servo then pretty much a full disassembly to install all of the goodies.

[King Dork]

I finally ordered my servo for the little fella:
https://www.agfrc.com/index.php?id=2523
Should be a beast in this rig. I have a few AGFRC servos and haven’t been let down by them.

Also ordered the Team Garage Hack transmission gears and trans reduction gear so the trans should be bomb proof. Don’t think they’re absolutely necessary but gonna basically rip the entire truck apart soon and don’t want to do it again if the stock gears were to fail at some point, plus the gear reduction will help with the low speed control. Ordering the Furitek system today or tomorrow so once everything is on the bench it’s go time. Got all of the Axial aluminum links/steering links to install, Treal aluminium rear link riser and servo mounts, brass portal covers for the front, and already mounted up the new wheels and tires. Have a spare Flysky GT3C that I’ll be using. Looking at aluminum shocks as well. Staying with the stock center driveshafts, ring and pinion gears, and front cvds unless something breaks but have backups chosen if they’re needed. Hope y’all are enjoying this rig!

[King Dork]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

Another question:
Does anyone know the compound of the stock tires?
It seems everyone online is swapping out the stock wheels and tires (and sometimes) because they’re “no good”.

No idea on the compound. I think if you’re mainly trailing or crawling dry, abrasive rock they’ll be okay. Also, I don’t know if there are actually any foams in them or not. If so, they basically feel non existent, so might not be supportive enough if any weight is added to the rig. I opted for the JConcepts class 1 Tusks which are 3.93” which is just a wee bit bigger than stock. Foams were stiff but I modded them and they seem like they’re spot on now (hand squeeze test, lol).

[2471:24]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

Another question:
Does anyone know the compound of the stock tires?
It seems everyone online is swapping out the stock wheels and tires (and sometimes) because they’re “no good”.
Is this mostly subjective?
The stock tires seem fine to me but I can’t find anything online that alludes to the actual compound.
It’s going to cost me about 160 Maple Syrups to try out some stickier rubber (cheap beadlocks and some Proline Class 0 BFG Krawler T/A KX Predator 1.9” tires) but I’d be fine just using the stock rubber if the traction gains are nominal.


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The tires are very soft as written before. I’m not sure if they have a foam, guess not? They fold over when sidehilling very easily. They do good but that’s because they are so soft. When you reach an obstacle, the tire goes completely flat against the rim. When you add some weight, it will run on the rims completely. I ordered the furitek kit with esc and 2500kv komodo and the bettle comp chassis. I also ordered brass portal covers from another place.

The comp chassis doesn’t weigh much, and I think it will work good with stock tires. We will see. I’m probably gonna put more weight down low in the future, and then I’ll also order new rims and tires. Check out injora.com, they have a lot of cheap rims and tires. They also deliver free it you order products that cost more than 50 usd😉 They have other upgrades for the utb18 too.

[2471:24]

Have driven it for maybe 1,5 hours. Drove 30 minutes more today in the forest. It rained in the morning, a lot of moss and wet logs. Still damp and the tires were doing very good. Gotta say I’m very impressed! Still stock, except droop. I removed the springs and cut of the spring “bump stops” in the front.

[Chubby5000]

Very nice. It’s been a while since I’ve got back into the hobby so I’ll just take your word for the tires being up to the task.
I’ve been looking at the at Furitek Bettle (carbon) chassis too but couldn’t find the weight of it anywhere. I think the DLUX chassis ($120) weighs 34g and the stock cage with drivers and gas tank etc weighs +\- 163g. Quite a difference.
Anyway. I also removed the springs and the bump stop and found it to crawl up obstacles much much better. I also put rear steer on mine and it crawls . The rear servo hits the frame quite and I don’t know if I should cut a few frame members or convince my wife I need that Bettle carbon frame (which is $105 moose horns up here…. Geez that’s not much money now that I think about it but our mortgage here in Vancouver with the current interest rates is close to $6,100USD per month!!!! lol)
I’ve only snapped a single front cvd axle so far so I’m pretty stoked on the durability.


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[Chubby5000]

Originally Posted by 2471:24

The tires are very soft as written before. I’m not sure if they have a foam, guess not? They fold over when sidehilling very easily. They do good but that’s because they are so soft. When you reach an obstacle, the tire goes completely flat against the rim. When you add some weight, it will run on the rims completely. I ordered the furitek kit with esc and 2500kv komodo and the bettle comp chassis. I also ordered brass portal covers from another place.

The comp chassis doesn’t weigh much, and I think it will work good with stock tires. We will see. I’m probably gonna put more weight down low in the future, and then I’ll also order new rims and tires. Check out injora.com, they have a lot of cheap rims and tires. They also deliver free it you order products that cost more than 50 usd They have other upgrades for the utb18 too.

Hey 2471:24 are you getting the titanium bettle chassis or the carbon version? If you get the carbon would you be able to weigh it and post it?


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[2471:24]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

Hey 2471:24 are you getting the titanium bettle chassis or the carbon version? If you get the carbon would you be able to weigh it and post it?


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Hi, carbon because it’s lighter. I’m at the summer house and don’t have a scale. I’m interested in the weight too. When the package arrives, I guess I just have to rip it open and go to a grocery store and weigh it there. At asiatees they don’t have the carbon fibre chassis listed, but the titanium chassis costs 90 usd and it’s free shipping after 70 usd.

The carbon chassis is very small, Matt from 2fm rc put it beside the trx4m bettle chassis and it was just a tad bigger when I watched it on youtube. I hate that furitek doesn’t list the weights on their products.

Btw, thanks for the weight of the stock chassis!

[2471:24]

I removed the fuel cell, that’s where I’m gonna install the avatar rx. Also removed the front mask with the lights. Received an extra battery and real light portal covers, they probably weigh 10 grams each or a bit less. Started to see if I could fit the battery on the servo as I did with my second furitek cayman carbon fibre kit. It will fit there perfectly.

I haven’t been so stoked on something since I saw the cayman kits! The tires hook up so good, specially if its wet or damp. One thing is for sure, and that is it needs a lot of weight down low. Even small branches will lift the front up if one is going uphill. Guess this is like my scx24, it gets better with time and it is so nice to see it getting better and better one mod after one other. Maybe it’s good that I’m at the summer house and that I can’t order everything at once.

Also feeling a bit stupid after spamming this topic…

[2471:24]

Removing the front mask makes the mini capra more pleasant to watch at also.

[2471:24]

Originally Posted by Chubby5000

If you get the carbon would you be able to weigh it and post it?


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I weighed it in a hurry, everything that is included is 69 grams. And there’s a lot of small bolts, nuts and screws. For the shocks and even a velcro band for the battery. Furitek sent the package to the wrong address. So I just weighed it and packed it again. Should have weighed it without the small bolts.. the alu battery & electronics tray was over 10 grams, 11 or 12 if I remember correctly.

[Chubby5000]

Very nice!!
Thanks for that 2471:24!
Next I’ll be asking for your objective opinion on the tangible crawling gains with the Bettle chassis.
I believe I just want to re-read what I already know


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[2471:24]

I’m on my way to the summer house again. You can bet the first thing I do is to install the new goodies and drive it! I’ll write a report asap, no worries :o)

[2471:24]

Omg, it’s a crawler now! The bettle chassis is really good, but the holes didn’t match to the holes in the skid plate. So it’s only fitted to the upper links. Have not had enough time / motivation to start drilling the holes in the carbon chassis. Now I can drive lines I only could dream of before

Now it needs bigger wheels&tires, more weight down low and shocks that work.

One more thing: don’t buy the komodo with the lizard pro, bec is only 2A. It cuts out every now and then, and the steering servo works strange. If I try to turn left to right, it makes it maybe 4-5 times, then the esc dies for a while. Can’t drive straight or backwards for maybe 2-3 seconds, nothing happens. If it don’t get better(which it doesn’t, why would it?) I may have to contact furitek. Btw, looked at their website, they have a new komodo meant for the utb18.

Besides this it’s working like a charm!

[King Dork]

Originally Posted by 2471:24

One more thing: don’t buy the komodo with the lizard pro, bec is only 2A. It cuts out every now and then, and the steering servo works strange. If I try to turn left to right, it makes it maybe 4-5 times, then the esc dies for a while. Can’t drive straight or backwards for maybe 2-3 seconds, nothing happens. If it don’t get better(which it doesn’t, why would it?) I may have to contact furitek. Btw, looked at their website, they have a new komodo meant for the utb18.

Before I ordered my Furitek system I took notice of the 2 amp bec. Knew it would need either an external bec or a direct power servo. Didn’t want more wires to try to stuff into the chassis so went with a direct power low profile servo. No issues or complaints with either steering or throttle, so it’s definitely something that people, especially new people in the hobby, need to take into account to avoid disappointment.

[2471:24]

Originally Posted by King Dork

Before I ordered my Furitek system I took notice of the 2 amp bec. Knew it would need either an external bec or a direct power servo. Didn’t want more wires to try to stuff into the chassis so went with a direct power low profile servo. No issues or complaints with either steering or throttle, so it’s definitely something that people, especially new people in the hobby, need to take into account to avoid disappointment.

Good choice, I may have to go the same route because my servo is dead. Does anyone know what fluid they use in the shocks? One shock has leaked and I want to put in a bit more.

[2471:24]

Another question: does anyone know how strong servo the lizard pro can handle without installing an external ubec?