HardcoreTam's Honcho Build

[Hardcoretam]

Hi all,

I've had an X-Trail chassied 2.2 AX10 for a while now and although it's fun and stuff i've always liked the SCX10. More so when the release of the Dingo and Honcho.

Got a tax rebate and decided to treat myself. I was lucky and managed to get one of the last V1's with the AE-2 and 2.4Ghz radio.

I'm going to use this first post to to list current mods, planned mods ect so it's easier to keep track and then pictures and updates to follow after it.

Current modifications
90mm alloy shocks & 15 weight oil.
Adjustable alloy shock mounts.
Xtra Speed "steel alloy" axles
Boom racing alloy rear lockouts
Alloy C hubs
Integy alloy steering knuckles.
Samix titanium lower steering link & Integy alloy upper
Alloy trans casing
Xtra Speed hardened steel trans gears.
Stainless steel driveshafts
Weighted front wheels
Fastrax alloy rock sliders & mounts
4 link front & back with Samix titanium links
Alloy skid plate
Alloy plate to mount front battery lower & electrics over skid plates
Waterproofed Power HD 20KG servo @ 6v
Hobbywing 1080p Crawler ESC
Alloy 4 link & servo mount
Waterproofed receiver with conformal coating & placed inside waterproofed box
13/87 gearing
Alloy front bumper
Alloy front bumper mount
Spur gear cover
Stainless steel nuts & bolts throughout
Wheels & tyres - Depends where i'm running.
Motor - Depends where i'm running
Battery - Depends where i'm running.


Will update as thread progresses.

[Hardcoretam]

First problem for me to tacke was it didn't have a great amount of flex and rolled a bit too easy as standard. That and i want to be able to run in water with no problems and i read memory foam and water isn't a great mix. I also didn't look the standard beadlock look.

Solution was star cut memory foams to keep a bit of flex and no problems in water.
Lead wheel weights (hard to get here in the UK)
Remove the anodizing finish

First up. Heavy duty drain cleaner and submerged for approx 6 hours.



Weighted front wheel. 10g on the bottom half and 5g on the top half
Rears only have the bottom layer



Star foams vs memory foams


Finished product (swapped the beadlocks as well with the inners and outers)


Unweighted wheel


Rear weighted wheel


Front weighted wheel is just over 300g

Now


Flexes better

[Arctic Fire]

I like the poilshed look, good job. That seems like a TON of weight?! Forgive my stupidity, but aren't those weights 1/4 OZ not Grams? The average PAPER clip weighs 1 gram. It looks like you have 7.5 whopping oz on there, or 212 grams of weight, as confirmed by your scale.


Thats over half a pound per wheel. Yowza. I think your servo just stripped itself looking at your wheels.

[Hardcoretam]

The fronts are the really heavy ones. The standard steering servo is still coping fine on the carpet around the house and even blips of WOT haven't killed anything 'yet'. I fully expect to break some parts of the standard drivetrain, but i don't plan on running silly power or being too aggresive with it on rocks or grippy stuff.
The AE2 is having a hard time though. Gearing down should help. It's hitting around 135oF just now. 13t pinion ready to be fitted

I'll see how it goes. Cheers on the polished look, i like it as well but i'm hoping to re-do them better with a better applicator and some proper metal polish. My AX10 ones came up lilke a mirror

Edit:
It's 114g standard weight for a wheel roughly. (4.02oz)
Rears are now 223g (7.86oz)
Fronts are now 301g (10.61oz)

[bendybus]

trim up thous flatirons . its unreal the difference

[Arctic Fire]

Do you have any clearance issues running the bigger ring on the inside? i really like the way the smaller one looks out there. I might have to try that out.

[Hardcoretam]

Is there a guide on trimming the tyres? I thought that was only possible with tyres with the ribbed sidewalls.
I'm still a bit of a noob towards the crawling / trail scene

No issues at all Arctic Fire. I guess the only side effect is something might get jammed in there a bit easier but it looks more scale this way.

[steele42]

I'm pushing the 10oz mark for my fronts. I had a hitec hs-5645mg servo for a while and wasn't ever very impressed with it. I recently got a hitec hs-7955tg and now realize what I've been missing. You definitely want a powerful servo to turn those fat hogs

[Perkolator]

^thats what I'm talkin' about!


I wouldn't cut the flat irons yet. Once they're broken in they hook up awesome. Yours should break in pretty fast with your foams cut. I'd still be running them if they were bigger.

[Hardcoretam]

Fitted the 13t pinion the other day and took it out to give it a test with the star foams and weighted wheels. Much better on the rocks, but not as good in the dirt. Much more fun with the better low speed control.

Small video of it. Quality is poor...i'm really new to video compression ect

SCX10 Honcho RTR Testing New Mods - YouTube

Can someone confirm if i can rotate the gearbox 180 degress to reduce torque twist without any problems? Hoping to do that, shave the battery tray height and i've just waterproofed the esc, reciever and light controlled with electrical liquid tape then filled the cases with dielectric grease.

Tower pro servo going in as well, deans connections and Tamiya 27t dirt tuned motor for a bit more nip.

[steele42]

Video looks fun . If you really want to reduce torque twist you'll want to flip the skid 180° and mirror the tranny (remember those are 2 different things.) If you're still not satisfied you can put underdrive gears in your rear axle, 43T/13T. You can also put a stiffer spring in the rear corner that is compressing due to torque twist.

[Hardcoretam]

Thanks It'll be more fun when it's more dry and not and cold and windy up in the hills as well

When you had mentioned that comment about mirroring the tranny, and flipping the skid plate i got a bit confused. I thought the tranny mounts to the skid plate so it was just a case of disconnecting everything...keep the tranny mounted to the skid plate and rotate it 180 degrees then reconnect the prop shafts ect back up. I'm guessing this isn't the case?

[steele42]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Thanks It'll be more fun when it's more dry and not and cold and windy up in the hills as well

When you had mentioned that comment about mirroring the tranny, and flipping the skid plate i got a bit confused. I thought the tranny mounts to the skid plate so it was just a case of disconnecting everything...keep the tranny mounted to the skid plate and rotate it 180 degrees then reconnect the prop shafts ect back up. I'm guessing this isn't the case?

What you just explained it the "rotating the skid 180." If you think about that, that puts your motor in the wrong place for weight distribution. You want the heavy motor closer to the tire that is lifting off the ground because of your torque twist. Check out this thread, it explains it well.
Mirror Imaged Transmission
Keep in mind, to mirror the tranny you still have to flip the skid. Hope this helps.

[Hardcoretam]

Some updates with pictures. The first few pictures are during and the latter pretty much finished. I'm running a 13t pinion so although i got a little liquid tape on the heatsink it shouldn't be a problem with heat. It's pretty cool here in Scotland most of the time.

Filled the cases with dielectric grease as well just as a safety net. Need to re-apply a little to the black wire and tidy the plugs a bit on the light board

[Hardcoretam]

After it almost sitting for 5 years unused i decided to dig it out and get back to it with the new free time unemployment provides.

Fitted the alloy steering parts so from this



To this





Driveshafts with rings fitted




Now just refitting all the electrics and fitting the Tamiya 27t motor with Deans Connectors all round and should be ready to run again shortly!

[Hardcoretam]

Being the phase 1 SCX10 it comes with the problem where it uses tiny grub screws that don't go all the way through the drive output shafts. They just pinch on and keep coming loose. I'ver ordered threadlock and if that doesn't solve it, i'll drive a hole right though them and use longer grub screws.

It held together today however and had a fair bit of fun and tried to get some nice pictures

[Hardcoretam]

I got the driveshafts on nice and tight now and took it out another run to an area with some rougher terrain and rocks. The current 27t Tamiya Dirt Tuned motor is geared super low so wheel speed is perfect but it struggled a little low down torque on the really bad parts. Remained cool though which was great.

Had a little curious Robin pay me a visit as well during my run











Video of it in action as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yq63T1_h7c

Tbh it would need either some super grippy tyres, better driving skills, 2.2s or similar to make the most of that area but it's still pretty good.

[Hardcoretam]

Lots happening with it since the last update.

I wanted to play around with some different motors and other parts i had.
I fitted some 100mm alloy shocks and my old Tamiya Double Blaze wheels with M2 Proline Masher 2000 tyres (no weights)

I tried some different 550 sized motors i had to see if they were up to much

Great Planes ElectriFly T-600 - 22 turn / 87/18 gearing
FTX Vantage - 15 turn / 87/13 gearing
12 turn (not Titan) 87/21 gearing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsIIH-sjJ7k





Another curious Robin











Oops....

[Hardcoretam]

Couple of other upgrades were done recently.
Some 90mm black alloy shocks with 15 weight oil.
Turnigy 1501 servo with DIY waterproofing
Wild Boar driveshafts
Alloy centre plate
Alloy gearbox housing





Waterproofing the servo






I recommend you don't put as much grease in as this. For the first hour or so of driving the servo was really slow and terrible from all the added friction, but it's fine now



I went to a nearby meet as well with a club for Scotland. We've pretty limited numbers over here so was awesome to be out with some new people getting ideas and stuff.

[Hardcoretam]

And finally today, took it swimming a little.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj3dRcADZTo