First dibbbs Deadbolt SCX10 (thoughts/reveiw)

[nwcrawler]

Ok thanks waiting for mine to come in this week

[gforce]

Originally Posted by mr dave

I applaud you! Investing time AND money in your relationship will make it grow stronger and you WILL be rewarded. Her buggy looks good right out of the box, and you are right about the Jeep body thing, but the new SCX is very original, don't change a thing. But if you do make upgrades, let her decide what she wants, there is pride in ownership and being original, that's what I love most about this hobby, and she will too.

I agree with Mr.Dave. I've had R/Cs for years but last year my wife got into them. She picked her own out (new SCX-10 Rubicon) and has since picked out every upgrade and part for it herself. I can tell you it's far from being stock now. lol She loves it!

I just picked up a SCX-10 Deadbolt at my lhs for my Dad yesterday. He is getting into the hobby and after a few suggestions he picked this one out. He asked me if I would get it and go over the truck and change ESC connector for him before giving it to him. Looking forward to crawling with him!

Enjoy your SCX-10s!!

[MichianaRCcrawlers]

correct...13-56

the dingo is a silver base (normal underbody) with a flat military green sprayed on the outside....

[MichianaRCcrawlers]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2279Irvaakg#t=244

shot a vid from last weekend...notice the deadbolt click at the end... 0_o

i was grinding my teeth hearing her run it lol

sounded like a Harley v-twin haha

[Wade]

I need to order one of these for my son as soon as Tower gets them in. Really liking what I've seen so far.

[MichianaRCcrawlers]

have your HBS order it....dealers get first dibs!

[Wade]

I would but I have a membership for the tower club, and I have some credit there, so that being said, the total will be around $230......and free shipping

[Natedog]

@OP, nice review and pics!

Originally Posted by mncrawler89

I believe it's 56t and 13t.

That's what I run in my SCX and Wraith with brushed 3s...good ratio.

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by MichianaRCcrawlers

First Red Flag.....for axial to fit the large 32 pitch pinion they had to put spacers in between the motor and the motor plate....which leaves 1/8 inch gap...well small rocks love to get in and the larger gear teeth love to pick them up....

Odd that they would do that. I'm running 32p on my RTR Honcho. Just a direct swap from 48p to 32p without any needed spacers. I wonder if this is due to the new slipper? Can you pull the motor, the spacers, and then just move the pinion back?

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by Maraxusofkeld

So my wifes desdbolt arrived last friday.

layed with it alittle bit.

I'm kinda regreting not getting an rtr with the ae2 esc... the ae4 has a linear throttle response which I guess im not used to. It feels like my old rc cars and trucks.. the ae2 and tge castle link are nice in that you can adjust the throttle curve and make the throttle feel more relaxed..kind of a nit picky thing I guess.

The drag brake works good. 50% seems like nothing and 100% is definitely 100%.

the on off switch is located on top of the controler box so u cant reach it without really jaming your finger s under the body...thats not a great place for it.

the steering servo arm thing hits the cross memeber of the chassis so u loose like 40-50% of the suspension travel.... its worst when the steering is at max. ill have the change this. I dont kniw if my wranger had this interference issue bc I changed rhe link lenghts before I even played with it.

It was my understanding from my RTR Honcho that this cross member with the single centered screw hole was for mounting the battery up front. Your battery is mounted in the back, so I'm not sure why it's even there. I just took mine out because my battery is now behind the front shock hoops mounted low (like everyone else!). The front shocks hoop mount and bumper mount provide enough stability up front.

EDIT: I can see now that the new Deadbolt rear bumper plate has a hoop that the middle end hole on the battery plate connects to. You can pull the front cross-member unless you plan to run it up front in the stock position.

Get yourself one of these! $17- plus shipping!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-bat...item41820cc7e7

[DowntownScience]

Look at this picture from the Axial website. This on the SCX10 deadbolt page. I can't tell if this picture is just recycled from other SCX10 pages, but you'll noticed that there aren't any spacers!

[MichianaRCcrawlers]

Originally Posted by DowntownScience

Look at this picture from the Axial website. This on the SCX10 deadbolt page. I can't tell if this picture is just recycled from other SCX10 pages, but you'll noticed that there aren't any spacers!

totally recycled!!!

yeah there def isnt any room to move the pinion...that was my 1st thought....

so far nothings gotten back behind the cover so ima let it be...if the silicone fails then ill look for a smaller 32pt pinion thats alittle less bulky

[celt]

Would it be feasible to remove the spacer and turn the pinion around, so it's teeth facing the motor plate?

[skerb]

Originally Posted by DowntownScience

Look at this picture from the Axial website. This on the SCX10 deadbolt page. I can't tell if this picture is just recycled from other SCX10 pages, but you'll noticed that there aren't any spacers!

It may be recycled, but it does show the newer esc.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by celt

Would it be feasible to remove the spacer and turn the pinion around, so it's teeth facing the motor plate?

No, the spur gear would end up right between where the teeth and the shank meet.

The spacers are not needed with brushless motors since the bearing does not extend past the motor plate and the pinion can be slid closer to the endbell, at least that's how it worked on the D3 motor I installed.

Maybe a different brand pinion will be shorter than the stock one then the spacers could be removed while maintaining proper mesh.

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by MichianaRCcrawlers

totally recycled!!!

yeah there def isnt any room to move the pinion...that was my 1st thought....

so far nothings gotten back behind the cover so ima let it be...if the silicone fails then ill look for a smaller 32pt pinion thats alittle less bulky

I checked my 27t and its the same way. I'm really confused why they did this is and why its necessary. Will the bushing on the motor not fit through the motor plate like it did before? seems the motor wouldn't be as secure not butted against the motor plate.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[MichianaRCcrawlers]

shes been running it with the silicone and there hasnt been any issues...she cant keep out of the mud! haha





a few long trail runs....no click click...im leaving it be for now

"If it aint broke dont fix it"

[bubaa]

[IMG][/IMG]So I too just got my deadbolt and I thought...do they have fenders for it? The axial webby shows AX80040 and the compatibility listed all the scx10 including the deadbolt. Heck, I'm gonna get it. Well...well...well...it takes a lot of tweaking and flexing but doable. And NO...its not a direct fit to the deadbolt....misleading compatibility....later found out its more for the dingo...oh well...but I made it work. Here some pics..



[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[mellowyellowCJ7]

I just got mine last night. Three battery packs later and still fun. The drag link to tie rod connection popped out and those are super flimsy. I'll probably replace those soon. My girls really like it too. This is my first RC since my MRP 1/10 road car in the early 80's. The Deadbot is fun right out of the box. I need to get a Jeep Body now and paint it yellow.

[bubaa]

Had my maiden voyage yesterday on my deadbolt. Here's a video of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMvaNXt5w_k