Peaker putting a SCX 10 II thru the blender.

[Peaker]

I have just tried to make a dashboard, but keep running into problems shaping the top of the board that seen to have a slight bulge in the middle of it.
So i will just make mine plain Jane and be done with it, and praise myself lucky scaling here dont yet seem to be involving scale points ASO, we just enjoy some wheeling thru gates.
Still the dashboard will be okay for a noob Dane working on his living room table with next to no tools.

[Peaker]

Dashboard starting to take shape.

[Peaker]

So the snap on body now snap on well and truly, so good its no problem lifting the whole car ( minus battery and ESC ) but i even think it will be able to manage that too.




Snap on body, still need some paint as we cant have that shiny ALU like that, so a dab of black are coming soon.



Snap on body snapped on, fits like a glove, but might have to limit sideways body movement in the rear.

¨Dashboard delayed a little but car should drive fine without it, and tomorrow are chill day with my 4 legged friend, so Sunday i will do the headlights and finish the WP box for electronics under the driver seat.

[Peaker]

I did a mechanical shakedown drive today, car pretty much passed with flying colors.
The area dident provide much of a offroading challenge, but i think it will be fine.


One thing though, that SSD gearbox, you really got to run 3S at least.
I used my normal go to power combo ( a 35 T hackmoto motor & 3S ) and the SSD provided pinion, and really its in the low speed end of how i like things.


BUT ! i am going to run it as it is now, as thats pretty much all i can afford.

[Peaker]

Installed the 4 headlights today, work fine just got to fix the light bleeding out the rear of the ALU buckets.


4 X 50.000 MCD 5 mm LED's forward voltage 3.6 V.


Wonder if i need a LED bar on the roof, after all whats the fun walking around in a dark forest if you turn it into daylight with your truck.
Like most good things, taken with moderation are always best.


And besides i always carry something in my back pack that can turn the forest into daylight, both where i am standing and 1/2 mile down the trail.
Hell if i want to i can even start a camp fire :-)

[Peaker]

Did a proper shake and bake run today, and it feel like the "stock" Dodge will be able to hold its own against the more modern big wheel - big everything cars the other guys run.


Now i just need to get access to a welder to whip up a front and rear bumper, which are much needed the way i drive.

[Rekreant]

Nice high quality video, nice lights, and overall a slick lookin truck!

[mcbartho]

Nice video. The color is not my taste but that's personal. Do you vent your tyres?

[Peaker]

No never vented tires, with my love for water that would be no good i think.


Or that is the 2.2 tires on my losi comp crawler i never run are vented, but it never saw water, or any challenges worth mentioning.


I have run into new things to throw money at, so the Dodge will see little change in the time to come, but at least i can run it now and there are still a few "free" things i can still do with it.


I will also have to change my alu bottom, what i have in it now are simply too flimsy and will get torn up sooner or later.
I am toying wit the idea to secure the body with screws like a hardbody, but not on the side like the RC4WD Yota and chevy bodies, but rather from the bottom and then up, but this mean i need thicker alu so i can countersink screw.


The magnets do have a good grip on the body for driving, but flipping or rolling it and the body get ejected pretty quick, but it snap back on just as quick.

[mcbartho]

Thnx for the answer. Building my first rig and dont know to vent or not, I think start with not venting. Ik will go out for trails and no real rock crawling.

[Jboucher]

Just FYI, venting the tires is recommended by the 3rd party foam manufacturers like crawler innovation.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Peaker

I will also have to change my alu bottom, what i have in it now are simply too flimsy and will get torn up sooner or later.
I am toying wit the idea to secure the body with screws like a hardbody, but not on the side like the RC4WD Yota and chevy bodies, but rather from the bottom and then up, but this mean i need thicker alu so i can countersink screw.

Maybe you can find a countersink punch and die or come up with your own, or maybe you can build up the material just where its needed.



Great build you got going!

[Rekreant]

I noticed a worthwhile improvement by venting my tires after many runs non vented in the same crawling location.

[Peaker]

My PW body broke already after 2 drives, now cracked all the way up the 90 degree bend at the radiator.

I just cant catch a break these days

[Peaker]

Question for the experts ?


Since i am a C1 kinda guy i don't have all that much clearance below the skid, so i was wondering if it will make sense to change to a body with a shorter wheelbase. ??
A inch or so shorter should have some say i figure.