Axial Wraith Anti-Sway Bars

[XRMikey]

From what I could measure, if this helps at all.

The rear arm length is 1.369(34.772mm) center to center & 1.497(38.023mm) from outside end to center of bar.
Over all length is 1.686(42.82mm)
Rear bar width/length is 3.545(90.043mm) x .098(2.5mm)dia.

The front arm length is 1.754(44.55mm) center to center & 1.882(47.8mm) from outside end to center of bar.
Over all length is 2.071(52.60mm)
Front bar width/length is 3.743 (95.072mm) x .098 (2.5mm) dia.

[GMV]

Thanks XRMikey! This helps me a lot so I don't waste money on something I can't use. And it's not possible to flip the dampers around so the reservoirs are pointing at center of the truck due to lack of space.

[mudn_1]

alright, I just ordered a front and rear set for my wraith, but I would like to know the pros/ cons of running both front and rear, or just one or the other? the reason I ask is.... I want this thing to handle better at speed, but don't want to sacrifice crawlability... so is there any down side to running both? or a certain reason to just using one bar?

[TheScaleAddict]

On 1:1's you disconnect the sway bars to crawl, and connect them to street. Connected hinders crawling, and disconnected is dangerous on road. It's one or the other... Can't have the best of both worlds. Unless you design a servo switched connect/disconnect system...

[TheScaleAddict]

I ran my tj with the rear off and jks quicker disconnects on the front. It wasn't terribly safe at speed, but it was also just a bit away from being a trailer queen.

[mudn_1]

the point of these is similar to the anti-rock bars... just controll body roll at speed, but not hinder crawlability.... I understand all that, and the function of a sway bar... I am looking for input on the the ones guys run and why? as far as both front and rear, or either

[TheScaleAddict]

Gotcha. My bad.

[zuki_dan]

I use to run just the rear one to help with the torque twist at high speed. But even the softest bar hindered the rear suspension flex. I then opened the reduced part of the bar up and didn't taper the edges it worked better for awhile then it snapped at the edge of the opening. Now I don't run one at all. I have since moved the steering servo back to the axle also which got rid of the torque steer I was getting at high speed.

[mudn_1]

I do still run the axle mounted steering, so that helps as far as bump steer, and it handles decent believe it or not without sway bars, I would think because of the width... I run a .750 hub on the front and a .450 on the back.... but it will roll pretty easy which is what I want to fix.....If I were going to run one sway bar, i just wonder which one is more beneficial and why? I would figure weight would have something to do with it, probably the front one would keep the truck pretty stable as there isnt much weight in the rear, but if I ran a rear w/o a front, would it also keep the truck stable... these are questions I have....

my wriath runs on 4s most of the time, so I need it to handle both crawling, and bash or RR

[kaneohecrawler]

Ive been running front and rear sway on my 1.9 jeep for a while now.. I love it! Ill never not use them on any future rig I build. They do not sacrafice crawlability whats so ever. They actually make the rig rediculiuosly stable while crawling. See from post 374 through the next page on how and why. Also has action pics whoth it installed.
KC's C2/G6 TJ BUILD...
Vid of a short muddy hillclimb with them installed. Youll see articulation is not limited
http://youtu.be/CzYWLSIsflE

[Dualdigger]

I'm running HR fronts only and found a huge difference in handling @ speed. Now, I can't comment on crawling since my rig is built for high speed rock racing. As far as I can tell It did not hinder articulation when the truck is crawling for the most part. I never installed the rear since the front sway bar did what I wanted it to do, for now.

[mudn_1]

I put the front on, and ran it a minute.... it it way more stable but also decently stiff when traversing an obstacle... its hard to tell if I need to add the rear or not, it still bounces, I think I need to go lighter weight on the oil at least, and maybe drill out the pistons in the shocks....but crawls well

[ashrum]

does anyone know the length of the turnbuckles from sway-bar arm to bottom of shock (turnbuckle length center to center. I am considering getting it but may want to replace the turnbuckle with stronger ones, because with VP titanium links all round i would hate for the weak point of failure (breakage) to be the thin Axial turnbuckles. The hot racing ones are thicker but the seem just to pop on ball mounts, not bolted on with ball in center of turnbuckle like axial version. How easily would the hot racing ones pop off the balls at 40mph off road terrain and mild landings 1 - 2 foot landings from air, from off road bumps?

Which would be batter for durability hot racing or axial ver. if can find VP or some other brand to swap out the thin turnbuckles?

[99chevy84]

Do these help alot

[JeremyH]

Does anyone know if the bars are available separately?

[NaZ-T]

Originally Posted by ashrum

Which would be batter for durability hot racing or axial ver. if can find VP or some other brand to swap out the thin turnbuckles?

Haven't tried the Hot Racing ones but I have been running the Axial one on the rear for almost a year with no issues at all

Originally Posted by 99chevy84

Do these help alot

In high power applications, yes.

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Does anyone know if the bars are available separately?

I don't believe so.
Most of the guys locally run spring steel piano wire in a slightly smaller size than the stock bars. Seams to be a bit softer than the soft bar that comes in the kit and because it's not notched it's stronger too

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by NaZ-T

I don't believe so.
Most of the guys locally run spring steel piano wire in a slightly smaller size than the stock bars. Seams to be a bit softer than the soft bar that comes in the kit and because it's not notched it's stronger too

That's what I figured. Yeah, I snapped mine right at the notch. I'll check the OD of the bar and order up some wire to replace it. Thanks for the tip.

[MAVERICKJK]

So... my take from reading through this thread is the Hot Racing is an acceptable sway bar kit... no need to spend the extra money for axial.

[the DMG]

dont know if anyone has had this problem with the HOT RACING sway-bars ?

but i have been running them on the rear,
i can never keep the grub screw tight & there always lousing up !!

no matter what i've tried - lock tight - took out the grub screw,
& used a 3mm bolt to get more pinch torquer on the torsion rod !
they are still failing !
wont stay tight !

now i am at the point of almost stripping out the grub screw threads.
seems the threaded area around the grub screw is small - this may be the problem

i checked the axial sway bar & there seems to be a lot more area thread where the grub screw is

taking off the Hot Racing & a Axial sway bar is going on next !
give them a try

[MAVERICKJK]

Originally Posted by the DMG

dont know if anyone has had this problem with the HOT RACING sway-bars ?

but i have been running them on the rear,
i can never keep the grub screw tight & there always lousing up !!

no matter what i've tried - lock tight - took out the grub screw,
& used a 3mm bolt to get more pinch torquer on the torsion rod !
they are still failing !
wont stay tight !

now i am at the point of almost stripping out the grub screw threads.
seems the threaded area around the grub screw is small - this may be the problem

i checked the axial sway bar & there seems to be a lot more area thread where the grub screw is

taking off the Hot Racing & a Axial sway bar is going on next !
give them a try

Well... keep me... this thread updated.