SkaldidDog's "Buck-Nasty" Wraith

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

Heavenly75 don't bend...well. Especially at that thickness. I was too lazy to mill from billet. I will if this fails.

No one sells Heavenly75 anything for a Wraith.

J

Time to mill a complete diff cover 7075m but without all the hollow spots and a little more beef.

[sic1to]

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMG_19181.jpg
Is this the fix for the non stop slop on chubs??? If so im in!!! Got done running yesterday & loosened up again(with beef tubes)! Got vp shafts & the gerth won't allow longer screw through chub...dammit...

[vicstag]

Originally Posted by sic1to

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMG_19181.jpg
Is this the fix for the non stop slop on chubs??? If so im in!!! Got done running yesterday & loosened up again(with beef tubes)! Got vp shafts & the gerth won't allow longer screw through chub...dammit...

Wow never seen/thought of apoxy but I had same problem until I got vp's new chubs that clamp to the axle tube I had to buy two sets for 4ws but after wks of abuse they are still tight

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by sic1to

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMG_19181.jpg
Is this the fix for the non stop slop on chubs??? If so im in!!! Got done running yesterday & loosened up again(with beef tubes)! Got vp shafts & the gerth won't allow longer screw through chub...dammit...

Loctite epoxy or JB weld will do the trick. Clean all parts very well with motor spray or 70% ethanol (drug store medical stuff). Make sure not to get any in the bearing seats. You'll never have a loose chub ever again.

Originally Posted by vicstag

Wow never seen/thought of apoxy but I had same problem until I got vp's new chubs that clamp to the axle tube I had to buy two sets for 4ws but after wks of abuse they are still tight

I have not tested the clamp style chubs. My guess is VP solved the problem via a new design. I'd epoxy the new ones too as insurance.

Hope this helps gents.

J

[sic1to]

Saweeeet!!! I got beef tubes because of this reason, so ya thing I should remove them now since I never wanted xtra weight? I think I will & run em in another set of plastic housings!!! Ty for info! Btw your ideas that you fab yourself just effin sweet...

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by sic1to

Saweeeet!!! I got beef tubes because of this reason, so ya thing I should remove them now since I never wanted xtra weight? I think I will & run em in another set of plastic housings!!! Ty for info! Btw your ideas that you fab yourself just effin sweet...

I'd epoxy any parts together that never needed to come apart again. Downside is that if one of the stuck parts fail, all of the stuck parts fail. I've not epoxied plastic so you're on your own there.

Update. Took two attempts but I bent a new panhard link. The improvements vs previous was to have to have no pumpking bumping at full compression, no rubbing the RH lower grill mount screw and a perfectly parallel line vs the grill at full compression (last part is irrelevant when I increase upward travel a touch.



Time to dump the front lower links and make some trailing [leading] arms. Longer front shocks and new front shock mounts on tap. Gotta loosen up the front. It's too stiff.

J

[SkaldidDog]

Man it felt good to drive after weeks of work. Now the motor and trans need to come out. Some one is not happy. Regardless. It worked a lot better with the updates.

I cranked out some 7075 "leading" arms for the front end.



Looks as good as it drives.



I used the existing shocks and that obviously gave me much more travel. The vertical vs laid back shocks work a lot better ie more linear and smooth response. I placed and insert in the previous axle shock mount point to strengthen the mount. Also lengthened the upper link to rock the pumpkin forward a bit. It was too laid back under load. Now it rides flat.



It'll never look this clean again.



Full droop.



Full compression. 34mm_1 3/8" travel. Virtually zero bump steer



Given the long travel and lack of bump steer I may not put the longer shocks on the front. Time will tell. I may get bored. Regardless, rebuilding all 4 helped a lot. Pics above are with 725 hubs. It was too wide. After a ~4 mile trail run I switched to 600 hubs (original width). That's where it will stay. Front diff skid did not fall off. Oh, the M4 button caps speed bumps on the rear trailing arms had the crap beat out of them. They must be working.

More later.

J

[SkaldidDog]

Since it's gonna be ~100F out here for the next four days I figured I'd refresh the drive train and work on the body.

New guts should solved the glitchy non-sensored episodes. I'm interested to see the inside of the old motor. I'll rebuild it and keep it on standby.



Time to hide from the heat.

J

[ittybitty]

Joel...were/are you still running the sensor cable that comes with the Mamba Max? If so...that's one component I had issues with in my Wraith when I had it. Although it's a flexible harness...it's really not that flexible. I found a different one on Amain that was branded as a "Super Soft" version. They offer them in 50-200mm lengths so that's a nice feature as well. I believe the problem with mine was where the connection was made at the ESC or motor had a sharp bend in it and the vibrations/abuse it saw had weakened the connections.

http://www.amain.com/Calandra-Racing...e-200mm/p61222

Just a thought...carry on!

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Joel...were/are you still running the sensor cable that comes with the Mamba Max? If so...that's one component I had issues with in my Wraith when I had it. Although it's a flexible harness...it's really not that flexible. I found a different one on Amain that was branded as a "Super Soft" version. They offer them in 50-200mm lengths so that's a nice feature as well. I believe the problem with mine was where the connection was made at the ESC or motor had a sharp bend in it and the vibrations/abuse it saw had weakened the connections.

Calandra Racing Concepts Super Soft Brushless Motor Sensor Wire (200mm) [CLN4028] | Radio Control - AMain.com

Just a thought...carry on!

I am running the Tekin wire. Thanks for the suggestion on the above wire. I seat the wire ends completely and put goop "tabs" on each of the short sides of the connector to hold it in place. I agree that the connections are likely the problem but they look and feel fine. Deep inspection will tell.

Cheers,

J

[twissted]

So is there going to be any video of the waith in the next event? I would like to see it in action!

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by twissted

So is there going to be any video of the waith in the next event? I would like to see it in action!

I'll see what I can do for you.

J

[Frankenwheely]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

I'll see what I can do for you.

J

Could get something on film for you.

[SkaldidDog]

Continuing the theme...



New side panels.







Time for the hood and rear panel.

[EeePee]

TQ makes super soft sensor wires also. Second one down on the page is what I've used and it's a softy alright. And it won't tweak your pan car!

Sensor cables

Burger on, RCC bro!

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by EeePee

TQ makes super soft sensor wires also. Second one down on the page is what I've used and it's a softy alright. And it won't tweak your pan car!

Sensor cables

Burger on, RCC bro!

Thanks for leaving a tip EP. I need a damn burger.

Finished the body. Rig is done for now minus the velcro latch to hold the hood down. Since the panels/hood are low grade alloy I reinforced the hood with CF plate. Otherwise I'd cave it in in the first hour of play.



Tool plate and Hysol sandwich.



Not bending.



Glamour shots!







Time to damage it.

J

[EeePee]

That's pretty cool!

Can't mount the servo 180 for a longer tie rod?

[rob_b]

The "new" wheel faces look sweet with the new panels!

[TStephens]

This post is an inspiration to other people who have had upgrade ideas but didn't think it was possible.

[sic1to]

WOW!!! That scheme kills the yellow!!! Nice work as usual...
Btw the JB weld is holdin up just fine! I'm using VP alum housings not plastic & yes I had beef tubes in them to try and stop chubs from getting loose. Removed tubes & been doin great & no loose chubs! Ty