Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue

[altd896]

Ahh yeah, sure
ditto that's a 2 way street, like when you assumed lowering the tie rod was suitable for the op driving terrain.

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by altd896

Ahh yeah, sure
ditto that's a 2 way street, like when you assumed lowering the tie rod was suitable for the op driving terrain.

I didn't assume anything. The photo appeared to be a shot of the stock knuckle (minor mistake), the stock knuckles are supposed to have the steering link on the bottom of the steering arms as per the Wraith kit instructions. Despite the fact the Vanquish knuckles are intended to have the link between the double shear arms, mounting it on the bottom would still be the simplest, quickest and most cost effective way to cure his current linkage binding issue. But only if the OP is willing to give up the double shear option, I doubt he is since it's possibly one of the reasons he bought the Vanquish knuckles to begin with. It's still a viable quick-fix option for his current problem whether it's the preferred solution or not.

[maslin]

The god has spoken. The rods shall be mounted as low as possible. We shall all listen.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Eric0424

I didn't assume anything. The photo appeared to be a shot of the stock knuckle (minor mistake), the stock knuckles are supposed to have the steering link on the bottom of the steering arms as per the Wraith kit instructions. Despite the fact the Vanquish knuckles are intended to have the link between the double shear arms, mounting it on the bottom would still be the simplest, quickest and most cost effective way to cure his current linkage binding issue. But only if the OP is willing to give up the double shear option, I doubt he is since it's possibly one of the reasons he bought the Vanquish knuckles to begin with. It's still a viable quick-fix option for his current problem whether it's the preferred solution or not.

There is more to the equation than just the knuckle type and his link clearance issue. The specs of that 7950 servo vs stock plastic servo horn. After replacing flexible links with Ti, the life expectancy of the servo horn is about zero unless you just drive straight. The 7950 comes with a shorter aluminum servo horn, so if he has it still the cost to change it is zero. Changing a servo horn out is also a quick fix option.

There is always more than one way! That is what makes this hobby so great. To paraphrase something (because I'm dumb and can't remember the exact words) an RCC OG once said. "Give 10 guys the same axles and chassis, and you will end up with 10 different rigs."

[altd896]

Hopefully next time the op will make their thread description clearer, something like "Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue"

[z50king]

Originally Posted by altd896

Ahh yeah, sure
ditto that's a 2 way street, like when you assumed lowering the tie rod was suitable for the op driving terrain.

If you are driving your rig on two way streets, you can mount the tie rod as low as you like without issue

This new free Tapatalk sucks....

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by z50king

If you are driving your rig on two way streets, you can mount the tie rod as low as you like without issue

If you are driving your rig on two way streets, all the stock plastic parts are more than adequate too...

In 1:1's, beefed up rigs that only see light duty are called mall crawlers. What would be good name for an trail tough RC that lives the same kind of life? Driveway roamers?

[MountainStorm]

Originally Posted by DickyT

If you are driving your rig on two way streets, all the stock plastic parts are more than adequate too...

In 1:1's, beefed up rigs that only see light duty are called mall crawlers. What would be good name for an trail tough RC that lives the same kind of life? Driveway roamers?

If they never even leave the house I guess we could call them carpet munchers.

I gotta laugh when I see posts like "it's not worth the trouble to" because all I hear is lazy.

It's always worth the trouble to optimize your rig. The more optimized your rig is the larger your e-peen. Everyone knows that.

My two cents is to make sure you have your C hubs where you want them and measure and get a clamping horn the fits the gap and have it exactly the way you want.

[z50king]

most people drive them around their garage floor. So maybe Garage something? idk

[kowalski22]

wow this thread got entertaining quick! lol!

I think I have it figured out, as others mentioned A shorter servo horn was nessesary. The pic I posted had the stock horn as mockup only, never inteded to use it. I guess I could have been more clear on that. I used it for mockup because the aluminum clamping horn I picked up was waaayyy to long to fit! I have since drilled and taped a new hole and cut off the bottom of it.


I moved the chubs back to the OEM position (although I dont think it matters) and I think it will work out fine!

Thanks for the replys and possible build thread names. I dont usually do build threads, however dont be surprised if you see "project carpet muncher" pop up...

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by kowalski22

I dont usually do build threads, however dont be surprised if you see "project carpet muncher" pop up...

and that is all I can think of to say to that!

Having the chubs rotated back will have a positive effect on your steering ability due to the positive caster they give. Positive caster angle greatly improves steering performance, the more the better to a point.

[maslin]

Positive caster.

And yes, more caster is a good thing on these rigs in my experience.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by maslin

Positive caster.

And yes, more caster is a good thing on these rigs in my experience.

You are right, I always get that mixed up... I just know the direction they need to rotate , upper kingpin towards the rear

[Dostradamas]

Originally Posted by DickyT

an RCC OG once said. "Give 10 guys the same axles and chassis, and you will end up with 10 different rigs."

Or ten Jeeps lately

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

Or ten Jeeps lately

There will still be something different about each one. Even if each was a green jeep with purple seats and yellow steering wheels, there will be some difference. Wheels, tires, foams, gearing, choice of scale accessories, shocks, the amount of flecks

[photocycler]

So are you guys saying if I bought the stage 1 kit, I would have to make modifications to my wraith to make it fit?

[PSW]

ugh I hope my set of scale hubs and knuckles don't cause issues. I run VP steering links and trail ready rims (stock poison spyder) anyone run this setup without problems?

[Dennis_Soucey_Jr.]

The vanquish hubs are off the chain. There are always issues in modifying any rig. Either 1:1 or 1:10. We buy these to tinker and be creative. Not to be bashed on for a failure to Foresee issues that arise. Solve the problem. Wheel the toy cars and have a blast. I run the vanquish scale Hubs , knuckles, and titanium steering. Only difference is I have a cms. Which causes other clearance issues. The direction that this post went really fast and attacking other posters is why I gave this up 10 years ago. As you can see I am a lurker. been here for 1 year and this is my first post. Oh well back under my rock I go.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by maslin

Axial clamping horn with bottom hole removed. Ground the bolt flush at the back, and ground the horn flat as well. Also made my own dewanger plate, to the extreme. I don't think you can move the servo back any further, while keeping it on top of the axle.

Nice.

[greengoblin]

I'm running a vp scale c hubs,knuckles axles and CMS and short servo horn on my Wraith it is the black one. The blue one is my sons Wraith it has CMS vanquish linkages but different vanquish c hubs carriers with a long servo horn. To me this adds more clearance on the servo maybe this will help.