This is a Monster....Yeti XL is a fitting name!!!

[pro mod steve]

Gorilla tape is what I use on all my trucks and works great. Worked great on the Wildpeaks in my kit till the wheels went south for the winter.

[redsawacs]

Everything is still holding up just fine. I have more issues with my Yeti 380 than the XL! I hammer this thing all the time. I guess I'm the lucky one that got "the" good kit.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Everything is still holding up just fine. I have more issues with my Yeti 380 than the XL! I hammer this thing all the time. I guess I'm the lucky one that got "the" good kit.

Posts like this make me lean towards 480 over 380.

[redsawacs]

Forgive me RCC for I have sinned....it has been nearly 3 weeks since my last post. I have not driven my YXL in about 2 weeks...i know, i know. Again, please forgive me!

So, I let my buddy drive it and he didn't understand the "ease on the brakes" comment...I took the ESC off to access the harness and dialed the brakes down to 30%. No test runs yet, been working on the house.

I originally cut down some HPI yellow springs for the front but I'm leaning towards some RTR YXL springs: AX31078 Spring 23x109mm 4.52 lbs/in - (White) (2pcs) (Standard Frt).

Can someone chime in on the RTR front springs please? Are they too soft, too short, too standard??

[Deckard]

I run AX31078 in front and back. 55 wt oil in the front. I have the adjuster all the way down on the front so the springs are as tight as possible. Still feels very mushy, but it's not awful.

I want to try 45 wt oil and/or the AX31242 6.76 lbs springs.

The rear shocks are perfect. No crazy bounce and I'm happy with ride height.

[redsawacs]

Thanks Deckard,

I got the rear nailed down, for now...it is the front end I want to change a little bit.

So, sounds like I need a stiffer front springs so I won't have to compromise with preload.

[Sneetches]

I haven't driven mine since I broke a top link for some reason, just not much time right now I suppose. If I recall, I used the Axial green 5.35 springs up front and moved the RTRs to the rear, then adjusted preload from there.

[pro mod steve]

My final set up on my YXL kit is RTR front springs on front 45WT oil. The long rear kit springs on rear with the front short kit springs 25WT oil. I love the way it works (when It ain't broke) so I will stay with this set up for a while. With the truck ready to run the front spring adjusters are about 3/8" down with axles level and rear adjusters are against shock caps. plenty of ride height not too low or too high and really takes bashing well.

[redsawacs]

I wanted to repost something I wrote in another thread this morning...

In my humble oninion (and we all know everyone has an opinion), the AXIAL YETI XL was only designed to handle 4s. The only reason it is advertised for 6s is simply due to the motor/ESC combination being capable of 6s operations. There are very few RC car vehicles (in this scale) on the market that can handle the power of 6s without multiple upgrades.

This vehicle IS NOT a beginner RC, not is it a toy! This is a monster of a machine designed for the expert/responsible operator and should be driven as such. If the choice is made to drive this monster on 6s, I personally feel Axial or Hobbico should not have to warranty anything. Again, my humble but honest opinion. It just isn't built to handle so much power. Granted, I have yet to break a single part on my YXL on 6s, but I also drive it responsibly and within understandable limits...it is not a basher, it is a scale RC. HUGE DIFFERENCE! If you break it, you should respond responsibly and with understanding.

To put things into perspective, let me say this. I'll assume the YXL is capable of 35 MPH on 6s (mine weighs 15.5lbs)...not unrealistic

A Yeti XL at 15.5 lbs and 35 MPH generates 860 joules of energy (Kinetic)...A .45 ACP caliber bullet measured at the barrel is 492 joules of energy (Kinetic). Sure you don't have to worry about a yeti going through you and killing anyone, but I am trying to get you to understand that this is a very serious vehicle requiring responsibility and maturity. Understanding it's limitations is part of that.

[TUNE_UP]

I couldnt keep mine together with 4s so i cant imagine 6s. I love the idea of this truck but wanted more strength.

[redsawacs]

One too many roll overs last night off a skate board ramp....broke the front body mount off the shock tower. I knew that was going to be a weak point so I think I'm going with aluminum, thread it all the way through and put a nut on the back side of it to keep it firm in place. I'll let the plastic mount towers take the flex.

Details to follow...

[AztecAdvancements]

Yep you're definitely right about it being a piece of equipment. It's not a play you by any means. I just finished the rolling chassis on my kit yesterday and it freaks me out with its size.

I'm still needing some help picking out the electronics of it but didn't get any answers from this forum.

Maybe someone here in this sub forum can help me.

I'm not by any means new to rc. I've had my fair share of nitro. I just don't know crapola about electric.


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[AztecAdvancements]

Here ya go!


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[redsawacs]

Congratulations!

The sky is the limit on electronic but I would recommend 3 combinations...
1 - Tekin RX8 and 2000kv truggy motor on 4s lipo
2 - Castle Creations Mamba Monster 1,2 or "x" with 2200 kv motor on 4s lipo
3 - Traxxas MXL-6s with 2200 kv motor on 4s lipo

Last 2 are the same thing, may find a deal on one somewhere. They are all a bit pricy but needed to get the performance without heat or strain issues. I do not recommend Hobbywing, Viper, skyrc, any other off brand, but some folks swear by them....your choice.

Servo...I like my Hitec 8380...but anything over 300 Oz is my recommendation. Savox, hitec, hobbico, airtronics, futaba just to name a few good ones.

Skemp on quality to save a few bucks now will coat you more over all

[AztecAdvancements]

Thanks redsawacs! I am considering the Tekin set up and the Castle set up you mentioned. Definitely 4S.

Is there any advantage to the Tekin being sensored vs the sensorless Castle? I'm under the impression sensored is ideal for crawling vs sensorless is ideal for bashing. I'd like to do a little of both.

Savox and Hitec seem to have what I want.

Batteries? Well I'm looking at Lectron and Dinogy. I'm just not too keen on what the different discharge rates etc mean on all these packs. Expense will not be spared on this build. I want one and done. (Until it breaks lol)

Thanks for all the info.

Love your build by the way.


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[1windsor1]

I use these... amazing deal (cheap) and they work great.
Turnigy nano-tech 5800mah 2S2P 30~60C Hardcase Lipo Pack (ROAR APPROVED)

They came in second in the Big Squid RC Lipo Battery Shootout: http://www.bigsquidrc.com/lipo-batte...0-mah-edition/


I also use the Castle system...Mamba Monster 2 and the 2200kv motor combo. Works great. I like being able to manipulate it with the Castle Link software.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by AztecAdvancements

Thanks redsawacs! I am considering the Tekin set up and the Castle set up you mentioned. Definitely 4S.

Is there any advantage to the Tekin being sensored vs the sensorless Castle? I'm under the impression sensored is ideal for crawling vs sensorless is ideal for bashing. I'd like to do a little of both.

Savox and Hitec seem to have what I want.

Batteries? Well I'm looking at Lectron and Dinogy. I'm just not too keen on what the different discharge rates etc mean on all these packs. Expense will not be spared on this build. I want one and done. (Until it breaks lol)

Thanks for all the info.

Love your build by the way.


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Tekin vs Castle Sensored or Not:
IMO In a dedicated "Crawler" like a Wraith for example, you want sensored or a very high end brushed system. In something like a Yeti XL in order to make it "crawl" will take away form it's designed purpose. It is more of a 90% Go Fast Basher 10% crawler. When you need to crawl it is more about picking the right line and powering over stuff than precision. Too many factors need to change to really make it crawl like diff fluid weights, lockers, suspension geometry etc. Going too heavy on the Diff oilF/R will make it crawl good but sacrifice it's Go Fast ability.

The Castle systems (MM2/2200) of today are very different than a few years ago in regards to cogging. Cogging is still present due to it being Non Sensored but not as bad. Since you are buying new i would go sensored without question. For the ESC look at the Tekin RX8G2 as mentioned but also the Castle Mamba Monster X. Sensored Truggy motors like the one Red mentioned or others will be the best choice for a do all system. If your goign to do it do it right from the beginning. If you are a few $$ short and even if the best deal comes up on a MM2/2200 i would suggest waiting a few weeks, next pay day or whatever.

Batteries:
Long and Short. Get the highest discharge rate and Mah you can afford. Most if not all MFG's sell good quality batteries so don't go bananas figuring out who make the best.

Once you find what you think you should spend your hard earned money on but still need advice before hitting the Pay Now button ask away and we will help.

[redsawacs]

Sensored vs Sensorless - Agree with all the above and I will add this. A sensorless system is far more sensitive to throttle input across the FULL range of operations making it a crap ton smoother. It is not exactly for low end operations, though it is a benefit. Wonder why 1/8 scale racers use sensored? Oh yea, smooth and sensitive to input. I love it. I would still be running my Tekin in my Yeti XL if I didn't buy an 1/8 scale Truggy to race...hehe. Now I have a Castle system in my YXL and I refuse to complain about either. They are both great performers. Caveat - the mentioned Tekin system will only operate at 4s, it can not handle 6s - creates too much heat in the esc.


Batteries...I use Venom batteries. They are very hearty batteries and you can not...I repeat....can not beat the customer service! Call and ask for John Hart. Tell him I sent you, he will do you right. Warranty? I think they are the only company who will not hassle you about a battery if it goes bad. Hands down my go to battery. A little spendy, but damn worth it! Let me add some more exclamation points....!!!!!!!!!

C rating. Think of it this way. Remember the McDonalds milkshake...super thick huh? Try using a regular size straw on one....yea right! Now use a larger straw (higher C rating)...milkshake has much more flow with a lot less effort. Not the most "technical" analogy, but it gets the point across.

How much C rating should you buy? Without doing the math, you need at least 5000 mah or more with a C rating of 30c or more to feed a 1/8 scale motor/esc. I do not care what anyone says - really I don't, that is the bare minimum. (Only exception is the Traxxas 25c battery...I think God created them but it still isn't enough). OK, a little math. Most ESCs will have a bottom end "C rating" required. The size of the car plays a role here (gearing and weight relate directly to amp draw also). Most 1/8 systems say bottom line is 150 amps (Mah x C rating / 1000). If you play with the numbers, you will see that C rating allows for a larger amp draw or battery drain. So, the larger the mah and the C rating, the faster you will go. More importantly, the less strain you apply to the electronics AND the battery...

...SO, i'll type this in bold, BUY THE ABSOLUTE MOST C RATING YOU CAN AFFORD!!!

[redsawacs]

Well, I was going to order a front sway bar but the dang things are on back order already!!! WOW!

Anyone have an Axial sway bar set on order or have one installed already? What do you think of it?

[84yoda]

Aztec - definitely go with the new mamba monster x, able to run smart sense which is sensored on start up then switches to sensor less so motor will run a ton cool. Then tekin 4038 2200kv motor. Lectron pro batteries are awesome and they have super high C ratings as well. Servo, hitec for sure, warranty seals that deal.