RCCrawler Forums

tonyfalkon · 09-20-2015, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordfreak95

Aw man...sorry to hear. Maybe use the return to get a lower KV motor at the same time??

Nah man I've actually seen this motor in action in a local track used as roving DSLR rig. It was heavier, it had a lot of torque and can go about 30 MPH with the DSLR and batteries strapped on. Someone was making a running video of the race and it can keep up with the buggies on the track. It weighed in at about 40-42 lbs with temps at around 150-165 degrees, if any I think I can go a little higher to pick up more speed but just a tinge though maybe a 1470 kv or a 1570 kv. But for now I'll just be happy with a working one.

Fordfreak95 · 09-20-2015, 12:23 PM

Ah that's right, you have the 1280kv right? I mixed you up with another member who also runs a TP motor.
The TP motors run pretty cool for a smooth can design. Mine never goes over 145* even on hot days and playing hard.
I hope they take good care of you!!

DingusKhan · 09-20-2015, 08:40 PM

It's a little late to mention this.... Put the exact same diff in the back and have 4 wheel steering. after all, Monster trucks have 4 wheel steering.

Dingus

tonyfalkon · 09-21-2015, 03:04 AM

They do if you look at post #7 I mentioned this rig is Rear Wheel Steering and 4 Wheel Steering is an option thats been put in the back burner, although most if not all monster truck are 4WS most of the monster Jam I went to see favor RWS when doing slaloms and jumping simply because it tips the rig more often due to a narrow wheelbase and RWS gives the rig a wider turning radius than Front Wheel Steering. They do 4WS mostly when navigating tight corners at low speed.

tonyfalkon · 09-21-2015, 06:13 PM

TP Power USA has emailed me back and they have forwarded my request to the owner, since I have a lot of time to kill might as well discuss the finer details of the build.

The Axial parts needed for this conversion

AX90032 Yeti XL™ RTR - Donor for most of the parts
AX31044 AR60 XL Rear Axle Housing
AX31016 AR60 XL Rear Axle Truss and Differential Cover
AX31062 Yeti™ XL Main Chassis Tub
AX31013 Y-480 Roll Cage (Tire Carrier)
AX31004 Yeti™ XL Rear Shock Mount
AX31005 Yeti™ XL Chassis Cross Members
AX31006 Yeti™ XL Chassis Cage Components
AX31007 Yeti™ XL Chassis Rear Risers

After Market parts
2 SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft
2 Savox SA-1230SG
1 Alloy Servo Guard for T-Maxx (4909, 4910) T3648B
1 no name 25T aluminum servo horn

Helios Yeti XL parts
Truss
Servo mount
Left and Right C-hub

Machined parts

2 141.55 mm rear drive shaft to replace HR 116.77 mm shaft one for future 4WS application
2 steering links 60 mm and 150 mm
2 upper links 160 mm

The front drive cups will not fit in the rear, they are too long believe me I tried. The front drive cups are longer because of the IFS, the CVD Dogbone needs to go back and fort as the suspension goes up and down no need in the rear since it is a solid axle the CVD Dogbone will not have the back and fort motion.

The position of the drag link mount on the Helios C-hub is on the front not on the bottom like the AX31084 AR60 XL Straight Axle Adapter, personally I would've like the trailing mount design same as the original but front facing. The AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft was stretched 25 mm longer it will still work but there's only 4 - 6 mm contact, there was no question that the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will not survive my driving style so I used SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft and have the local machinist make me a longer shaft and also longer upper links. A simple solution I pondered upon was to shorten the upper link and the drag link but that would have been harder since the shocks were sitting on the drag links. Pictures of the parts are in post #7 and #17.

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 02:56 PM

Well it was just supposed to be a dry run to see where the stress points were, after about 10 minutes of very light bashing I decided to bring it in for some running video and still shots, then the stressed points became apparent. Here are some before and after photos.

Then there's this

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 03:10 PM

Here are some more close up shots where the front axle shaft thread broke.

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 03:33 PM

I was expecting the actual shaft to break but not at the threads, I had to drive to the machinist and pull out the front shafts he was working on, this was actually Plan B, 8 mm shaft all the way down except for the 10 mm collar, original axial shaft 6 mm.

But now this is not even an option the threads are the weakest part of the shaft and will always get stressed, its a good thing the kit has a different shaft and stub design. It is reversed I can just put an M5 screw to attach the wheels to the shafts plus the screws are cheaper than the shaft of course this is hoping that kit shaft's threads hold up.

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 03:57 PM

Another problem that needs to be addressed is how the rim attaches to the hub, there is only 5 mm of space for the hub and if you look closely at the RTR hub there is a 2 mm offset, only about 3-4 mm that is engaged to the wheels.

cmbscx10 · 10-17-2015, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon

Well it was just supposed to be a dry run to see where the stress points were, after about 10 minutes of very light bashing I decided to bring it in for some running video and still shots, then the stressed points became apparent. Here are some before and after photos.

Well that sucks. Sorry to see it didn't work but you are upgrading the faulty parts so hopefully the next run will be good.

Questions?
1. I am confused which isn't easy. You are rear steering this? Body is throwing me off.
2. How did attaching the chassis tub go?
3. Have any body off shots?
4. That is the Helios RC Kit? If so, how did that hold up. Looks like it did very well.

cmbscx10 · 10-17-2015, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon

Another problem that needs to be addressed is how the rim attaches to the hub, there is only 5 mm of space for the hub and if you look closely at the RTR hub there is a 2 mm offset, only about 3-4 mm that is engaged to the wheels.

Your switching to the "Kit" axles so the hub is a non issue right? If so, that means drilling out your Bad Arse wheels to 8mm. What is the hub size on the wheel?

** EDIT ** I see it is a separate hub. Depending on your hex size just get hex adapters for the wheel size and drill out the hub.

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 04:21 PM

Another front I need to tackle on the rim is the amount of hub contact to the wheels 5 mm is just not enough and for the speed and jumping I have planed for this build. Short of machining a different wheel design I have decided to just add on to the original, longer hub for the shaft and an adapter the bolts directly to the wheel. I am hoping that not only will this help transfer the torque directly to the wheel but also channel the weight of the wheel more to the shaft instead of the screw thats holding it together.

or maybe just a one piece adapter, this would be my plan B in case the one above fails.

tonyfalkon · 10-17-2015, 04:45 PM

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