YXL Concept Monster Truck

[tonyfalkon]

Hub parts and center driveshaft mount came in during the week from the printer, they were a bit over sized which I prefer, I like to fit them snug not loose.

[tonyfalkon]

These are the plan A hubs which are these





I had to change to the kit stub and drive axle

[tonyfalkon]

My setup so far





Hey FF I steal your battery setup and I wish I hadn't them connectors are a pain to put on and off no wonder you put another connector in the middle. I haven't buttoned everything down yet as I'm still in the testing and adjusting phase, as illustrated in the pics its missing a couple of screws. Among other stuff that needs to be addressed is the XL2 ESC it is not binding well with remote I tried 2 remotes so far and non of them bound fully but enough for me to get it running for 10 mins to see which part/section needs attending to. On Monday I will have to call castle creations and see if they can walk me thru the process maybe I missed something in the manual hoping I won't have to send it back them connectors are really hard to put back on.

[redsawacs]

That man said, "I WILL BUILD A YXL BASED MONSTER TRUCK"....and here it is!!!

NICE WORK!

[tonyfalkon]

TP power finally sent the 1280 KV motor back turns out it was a bad solder on one of the connectors had to send them another set of CC connectors so they can solder it correctly. After a 10 minute run I'm glad I didn't go for the higher KV motor the 1280 KV is ample enough to swing the rig around, it even has that signature torque twist of the YXL. I thought for sure that the 3.6 lbs rim tire combo will be heavy enough but this motor proved even more powerful.

I put 15 and 68 T pinion and spur combo same as the RTR and at 6s temperature was at a cool 98 degrees but this is just light bashing with 3-5 occasional burst runs.

[tonyfalkon]

A couple of things broke though like the bent rod end, the rear driveshaft got pulled and broke the lock washer on wheel. On a closer look the pins on the driveshaft got bent slightly which prevented the shaft from moving freely, so when I did the burst it pulled the shaft while doing the torque twist.









I'm hoping that these hubs will be able to take the punishment but just in case they do fail I got these as a backup.

[tonyfalkon]

Finally bound the remote to the ESC, had to rebind the remote to the receiver but its working fine now, I got 20 mins of playtime yesterday with no remote issues and the motor is at a cool 110. While testing it yesterday I can't say enough about the TP 1280 KV motor with 15 T and 68 T combo at 6s the torque twist is insane forwards or backwards. The right trailing arm popped off and again left upper link but this time it didn't break, rod ends popped off from the screw, hence just 20 mins of playtime. I will use a higher pinion next 16, 18 or 20T to tame the insane torque twist and if that doesn't work 64 and 60T spurs. And as a last resort swaybars, which I really don't wanna do with that much torque I'll be doing wheelies and from what I've seen so far this motor can and will deliver.

I emailed RC4WD this; "the tires keep coming off the wheels, I assembled both as is tires locked on the bead by the beadlock rims, I thought the point of beadlock rims is to hold the tires in place, instead of using glue or did I miss something". I visited their site to see if there were any instructions or detail about mating the demolisher tire Z-T0020 (which is incidentally renamed KK2 demolisher tire as they launch the Killer Krawler 2 product) to the demolisher wheel Z-W0137 but couldn't find any.

I hope they don't email me back telling me to use glue coz that'll just suck, its not for me which is the only reason I chose this combo, and not the Redcat Racing 1/5 rampage MT tires and wheels 8" x 5". I could put silicone seal that bonds to metal and rubber, it will make the tires waterproof too but will it be enough to keep the tire from coming off, for now I'll wait for RC4WD response maybe I did miss something.

[Fordfreak95]

Those CC high current connectors are tough to come apart for a while yeah...I have dielectric grease on mine...I use dielectric grease on all my connectors. Keeps the galling down. My extra connection on the jumper wire is a 7mm bullet anti-spark connector. Has a resistor built into it so I don't get a giant spark when I connect the batteries. I stole the idea off a URC member's build.
Ive gone through a good bit of upper link rod ends. The ones that are holding up for two thumping runs are Gmade 20172. Strong plastic.
Truck looks amazing! A+

[tonyfalkon]

I need a bent rod end the 20172 is straight I'm thinking AX31186 to keep it all Axial or the RC4WD ALUMINUM BLACK M4 BEND ROD END Z-S0301/Z-S1430, right now I'm using the RC4WD M3 BEND ROD END immana try buttoning it tighter since only one side is having issues.

[Joshs4x4toyz]

Very cool build! My favorite xl build. As for the wheels I have had nothing but crap experience with those wheels plain junk if you plan on driving the rig. I use 40 series fright wheels sleeved together with pvc. They work great for crawling and light bashing but doubt they'd handle any high speed crashes.

Anyway sick rig, can't wait to see more

[Fordfreak95]

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon

I need a bent rod end the 20172 is straight I'm thinking AX31186 to keep it all Axial or the RC4WD ALUMINUM BLACK M4 BEND ROD END Z-S0301/Z-S1430, right now I'm using the RC4WD M3 BEND ROD END immana try buttoning it tighter since only one side is having issues.

I had the RC4WD black M4 bent aluminum ends. I killed them all but two. They crack at the bend. I used three sets of the AX31186 ends also. The holes get oval shaped really fast. Like in a hour. Now I'm searching for steel ends. My links are 1/4" titanium with M4 threads at the end. I drive the rig like my ex wife is chasing me also...but that's what makes it fun so I'll keep replacing rod ends...they are cheap sacrificial part anyway.

[tonyfalkon]

It's amazing to get a CYOA letter from a company that I have read great reviews from





I am hoping that this is a separate incident not a pattern coz they have a lot of good products. Immana just get some additional padding and fluff it up a little then just for good measure apply silicone sealer at the seams to waterproof and seal the wheel to the tire.

[tonyfalkon]

These are the photos they sent me back in June

[crampt]

I saw the first post, and thought it was going to be eh..... after seeing your work its insane! Great job man!

[redsawacs]

If I don't see a running video soon,I'm goong to lose my feces! !

[tonyfalkon]

Not till the truck body arrives not proper to film it neked.

[tonyfalkon]

The truck body arrived 4 days ago and after working out the kinks on the upper links it was time for another stress test.



but it seems like every time I to do a dry run before filming something breaks.











This was unexpected, thats the Savox SA-1230SG with 36 kg-cm pull specially since "someone" who shall remain nameless convinced me that one of this was more than enough if not too much torque for a set of 3.6 lbs mounted tires/wheels. My initial plan was to mount 2 SA-1230SG one for each wheel its a good thing I bought 2 of them and I stocked up on spare gears in case something like this happens and of course it did again the next day.





So yesterday I ordered some axial M5 rod ends to replace all the steering ends, hopefully the updated truss with dual steering mount that Helios RC is sending would arrive at the same time. But just in case I get anxi I still have the other V1 servo mount I modded to fit on the right side.





Also ordered the integy universal servo saver.

[tonyfalkon]

Last 2 weeks I have been trying to figure out a way to keep this from happening



and I came up with indoor outdoor silicone sealant applied graciously of course on both sides on all 4 and it took almost 3 days to dry





I did realize a week later that it might not hold it in place so I am currently looking for a .5 mm SS 4 inch diameter ring to be sandwich between the tires bead and wheel plates or rod that I can bend to fit the 4 inch diameter tire bead.

RC4WD is baffled how this keeps happening and wants me to ship the wheels and tires for them to test and though I appreciate their efforts to help me I politely decline.

And just in case anyone is wondering how this happened 2 things, I notice this the first time I was mounting the Z-T0020 and Z-W0137, as I was tightening the screws I could feel the wheel plate sliding around the tires. Secondly my stress test procedure: short burst full throttle straight runs and 2 feet turn cornering then high speed breaking with full reverse, after reaching max MPH and thats with all default ESC settings.

The TPpower 1280 KV motor I'm using, on paper theoretically, produces about 3 HP with 11.05 ft-lbs of torque reaching 40+ MPH with a 68 T and 18 T spur and pinion combo (even with that combo torque twist is still visible on the mild end, straight burst run the chassis dips to the left and on the worst end three wheel cruising). After about 15 minutes of stress test and between 8-10 if something breaks motor temp is between 95.6°F - 99.3°F on 6s Li-Po's, XL2 ESC temps about 78.6°F and SA-1230SG with a dedicated BEC pro installed set at 6V servo temp at 99.8°F.

[Joshs4x4toyz]

That's a good idea! Rc4wd is dilusional, both they're demolishers and tsl's pop out with any side load or wheel speed. Same with their cyclone/crushers, beadlock bottoms out befor grabs bead real tight. Please post results. I'm sure we could find a way to build that bead area up so they stay great thinking. Maybe even some CA and scrap rubber.....hmm if I find anything I'll let you know. I wanna see this thing rippin!

[WesTX]

Any updates on this build?

Wes