JC Auto Design - SCX10 Rear Upper Link Risers - Improved geometry

[monkeyracer]

All orders paid by this morning have shipped. Your tracking numbers should be listed on your paypal account.

Any new Nylon orders may be delayed this week since I was sent the wrong material from the supplier, and won't be able to print any until the correct material gets here. This should only add a day or two to the turnaround time.

Thanks!

[littletoyboy]

Do you have any of the metal versions left?

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by littletoyboy

Do you have any of the metal versions left?

I have one last set of V3 RULRs. After that is gone, I will need to see a demand for more metal versions before getting more in stock.

Thanks!

[littletoyboy]

I just ordered your last set of metal risers then. Thanks

[cneill24]

So for the nylon v2 would you just use them in the rear or the front as well?

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by cneill24

So for the nylon v2 would you just use them in the rear or the front as well?

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

These are designed to work on the rear only (RULR = Rear Upper Link Riser) but they can be modified for the front of the chassis if you wanted to. The best results though come from increasing the separation of the rear links, and generally the front can be left alone.
I replied to your PMs as well, hopefully that will help answer your questions, but please feel free to ask anything else.

[DaveQ]

I ran these in the Iron Mountain G6 today and took a couple of good tumbles and everything looks good! I will say that these little gems will help you walk right up hills!

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[monkeyracer]

Update - I had some issues with my printer over the weekend and I am temporarily delaying orders until replacement parts come in. Those that ordered before today have their parts already on the way, with the exception of one order that also contained other parts.

For those that know what goes into a 3D printer, I had my hot-end ceramic insulation get torn off, causing the printed material to stick to the hot end, melting and breaking down, and now the hot end is a mess of burnt plastic.

I've already got a new hot-end on the way, and will have production up and running again before the end of the week.

Any further questions, please feel free to post them here or send me a PM.
If you are concerned with your existing order, please feel free to contact me.

[monkeyracer]

Pics of the carnage:



The left hot-end should be fine, so I am going to re-insulate and try to print with that side, but the right hot-end is covered in degraded burnt nylon, and will be completely useless. I have a new hot-end, heater core, insulation and thermistor on the way to replace this one.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Looks like a hot mess.




*rimshot*

[canadianbacon]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Looks like a hot mess.




*rimshot*

[mikro383]

It'll buff out

Sent from my phone because my computer sucks!

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Looks like a hot mess.

*rimshot*

Originally Posted by canadianbacon

Thanks!

Originally Posted by mikro383

It'll buff out

Sent from my phone because my computer sucks!

Nah, just makes the degraded plastic shinier.

The other side is missing some insulation (as seen in the pic) so it's not holding temperature enough to print anything. Printer is down until the replacement parts come in. Might be a good time for an overhaul anyway.

[onecool54@yahoo]

Can you make a riser block for the back of the twin hammers. Like gcm but black.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by onecool54@yahoo

Can you make a riser block for the back of the twin hammers. Like gcm but black.

GCM makes their rear truss in plain aluminum as well as black, if that is what you are referring to.

If you were referring to something like the RULR which changes the chassis side mounting point of the upper links, it would be possible, but I would need a TH in hand to get measurements and see what kind of clearances I would be working with.

[monkeyracer]

Update:

Waiting on one last piece, but the post office is holding up somewhere in between. I was supposed to have it yesterday, but no show. I hate having the printer down this long.
To those waiting on orders; I appreciate your patience, and I will try and do something to compensate for the extra time this is taking.

[monkeyracer]

Update...

I got the parts in, got them installed:



And, when I went to print a calibration test piece, the printer shut off...
After some troubleshooting, I realized that I ordered the wrong heater cartridge...
I ordered 12V 40W heaters, but my bot is a 24V system (I didn't know this when I ordered the heater). This means that I was trying to run the 12V heater on a 24V system. That was drawing WAY too much current and luckily my printer went in to protect mode and shut off... after many expletives were expressed, I ordered the right ones, and will have this thing up and running very soon.

[monkeyracer]

Printer update:

I got the correct heaters in, but the printer still shuts down when I try to print anything.
I got on the phone with the manufacturer's support line, and after some troubleshooting it turns out something on the motherboard fried when I put the wrong heaters on.

But, luckily, the company is sending a replacement board for free - out of warranty.

So, until the replacement board comes in, the printer will remain down. I'll be having a sale on some of my products when everything is back online as a thank you to all those that have been patiently waiting for production to resume.

Keep an eye out soon for the re-launch.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Printer update:

I got the correct heaters in, but the printer still shuts down when I try to print anything.
I got on the phone with the manufacturer's support line, and after some troubleshooting it turns out something on the motherboard fried when I put the wrong heaters on.

But, luckily, the company is sending a replacement board for free - out of warranty.

So, until the replacement board comes in, the printer will remain down. I'll be having a sale on some of my products when everything is back online as a thank you to all those that have been patiently waiting for production to resume.

Keep an eye out soon for the re-launch.

New update:

I got the replacement motherboard in and tried to print... not working... still there was something wrong!

After some more troubleshooting, it seems the second set of heaters I was sent were actually wrong... again!

The company that sent them said:

Its unlikely you received a 12v heater as we stocked out of 12v 40w units earlier that day after you had placed your order.

To verify which heaters I had, I checked the resistances. I showed 3.8 ohm on one heater, and 4.2 ohm on the other. 24V heaters are supposed to be around 14.4 ohm, and 12V are around 3.6 ohm. So I was sent yet another set of 12V heaters. Now I have to see if they will send the right ones or refund my money...

I was able to clean off one of the original heaters enough to use it, and will be partially up and running for the time being. I have a couple orders to catch up on, and when I am ready to resume normal production I will start taking new orders. There will be a sale on some of my parts as a thank you to those who have been patiently waiting to order.

More soon!

[StanSuarez]

Hope you get your printer up and running soon. My friends and I want to try out your RULR V2 - Nylon (Dyed Black Plastic). I hope the waiting list isn't long.

Btw, how do I order? I need a quote for international shipping as well. Thanks.