Anyone Use Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC?

[CRAWLERJOE]

My 21.5 ballistic seems happy with my mamba max pro! On 2s seems to do just fine good torque and speed is fine without being too much for a scaler!

Personally I do not like Novak esc's at all! Buy a castle esc when the smoke comes out of that one.

[Duuuuuuuude]

So...anyone have any updates? I feel bad because I still don't have a crawling rig to try the LT4 in, so I'm going to have to live vicariously through you guys.

[Hobine]

I absolutely love my original 120 amp in my Wraith with the Tenshock SC411 3500. Biggest problem I have is that I keep loosing the beads on my SLW's. I took it apart and Corrosion-X'd it, then sealed the case with liquid electrical tape and finally stuck it in a balloon. Oh yeah, also removed the fan. Running 3S 5000mah packs with no heat issues. Its survived being submerged a few times now.

In my EXO, I've got the LT4 with SC411 4000. After about four 2S packs it died. As happy as I am with the original 120, I'm very dissapointed with the LT4. On other forums people are having similar problems. It's the BEC that fails. My advice to anyone with the LT4 is to run an external BEC even with a mild servo. I have not tried to concact Stan because this just happened yesterday (Sunday).

[ik632]

I'm running my 120A Pro in my Wraith with a Tenshock SC411 4000kv on 2S 5000mah 40c and it's very good. No matter what gearing I try the motor gets too hot for my liking after hard running but the speed control is always ice cold. I'm running the same gearing as the other Wraith guys and the only difference I can tell is they are running the Tekin Redline or Pro4 motors in their rigs, but it's a very similar setup (4 pole 550 can).

I ran the ESC in my drift car with a 4000kv 2 pole motor and both were ice cold the entire time even geared super high.

I'm running the ESC in double pump reverse mode with 25% drag brake and it's pretty good. The LVC isn't very accurate though. I have it set to 3.4v/cell and often cuts off at 3.7 or 3.8.

Also, the 120A Pro I've got seems to be a bit picky about the battery. All of my Castles will run just fine with the battery from storage (so 3.8v/cell) in a case where my son wants to drive and doesn't want to wait. So, we do a short run with battery then recharge to storage. The 120A Pro doesn't like that at all. It will complain about hitting LVC (see above) so I need to mess around with that setting to see if it helps. Maybe drop down to 3.0 or 3.2 and also stick my LV buzzer on the battery too to warn me if it's too low.

In general I'm very happy, but I did buy a MMP though for $80 on eBay recently from one of the RC chop shops so with the price of the LT4 at $67.95 it makes it a harder comparision.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Hobine

In my EXO, I've got the LT4 with SC411 4000. After about four 2S packs it died. As happy as I am with the original 120, I'm very dissapointed with the LT4. On other forums people are having similar problems. It's the BEC that fails. My advice to anyone with the LT4 is to run an external BEC even with a mild servo. I have not tried to concact Stan because this just happened yesterday (Sunday).

That bites. I lurk other forums and keep an eye out for BH threads so I can keep up with reports and failure complaints and whatnot. In reality, the failure rate on the LT4 is very low. Like, 1-2%. But yes, it does seem that it is the bec's that are failing.

I've got a couple LT4's that I've been running since they came out, for the last couple of weeks its been pushing a high voltage 300oz servo just fine.

A couple things that he has found that reduce potential problems: lock out reverse on sensored motors, and keep the sensor wire and motor wires as far away from each other as possible.

[ik632]

I did read about that in the instructions. It seems that the motor and sensor wires when too close together cause some feedback loops that can burn out part of the board. It seems that was more of an issue with the Tekin and Novak motors but I'm pretty sure it's just because that's what everyone was running. I'm guessing all sensored motors run into that issue.

My internal BEC only runs Wraith stock lights and RX power. Big servo gets an external CCBEC.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by ik632

It seems that was more of an issue with the Tekin and Novak motors but I'm pretty sure it's just because that's what everyone was running. I'm guessing all sensored motors run into that issue.

Any time you put a signal wire next to a power wire that can pull a heavy amp load, you're going to have an issue, no matter who makes it.

[Docwolf]

I switched to an outcry cause i got it cheap, i want to revisit my BH and see if i can resolve the boost delay issue, i am thinking it may jsut be due to me extending the sensor wire. I am now running 3s and i know i could get better performance from that BH.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Docwolf

I switched to an outcry cause i got it cheap, i want to revisit my BH and see if i can resolve the boost delay issue, i am thinking it may jsut be due to me extending the sensor wire. I am now running 3s and i know i could get better performance from that BH.

I stuck a 3s in my Exo Clone the other night just to see how it would run. LT4 + 3000kv long can Tacon. It became 7lbs of scary fun. Now I need to go buy some 3s packs.

[Hobine]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

A couple things that he has found that reduce potential problems: lock out reverse on sensored motors, and keep the sensor wire and motor wires as far away from each other as possible.

Locking out reverse is a show stopper for any crawler application (yup, I'm stating the obvious).

I wired in a Castle BEC and all is working so the ESC wasn't a total loss. Funny thing is I had to keep the red wire from the ESC hooked up for the system to work. Usually I clip it when using an external BEC

[Duuuuuuuude]

You only need to lock out reverse if you are using a sensored motor. Sensorless doesn't matter.

[Docwolf]

right....i personally run sensored in my crawler...when i can, this outcry is not setup for sensored which leads to cogging....

[Duuuuuuuude]

You can do short bursts of reverse. Trying to reverse the rotation or long runs of backing up really bugs them out and will eventually cause failure. That goes for all sensored systems AFAIK.

[discgolferlee]

hmmm been out of the crawler world a bit and just got back in and HA stumbled across this thread

NICE!!

hopefully everyone is enjoying their LT4 esc's!!!

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by discgolferlee

hmmm been out of the crawler world a bit and just got back in and HA stumbled across this thread

NICE!!

hopefully everyone is enjoying their LT4 esc's!!!

S'up Lee! Welcome back.

Help us convince Stan to develop a brushed capable esc.

[ik632]

Originally Posted by Hobine

Locking out reverse is a show stopper for any crawler application (yup, I'm stating the obvious).

I wired in a Castle BEC and all is working so the ESC wasn't a total loss. Funny thing is I had to keep the red wire from the ESC hooked up for the system to work. Usually I clip it when using an external BEC

If you burnt up the internal BEC that makes sense. I saw on Stan's site that he has replacement boards for the LT4 now.

[discgolferlee]

Hope everyone out there has a great turkey day this upcoming thursday!!!

[tuner]

I just ordered a 120 amp for my 4x4 slash with a tacon sensored 8.5. I tried to download the software from mediafire but my desktop computer sucks so bad it wont do it. I need to set it to sensored before I put it in the slash. The only reason I ordered it is because its sensored and I would like to try this esc out. Do I need the programing card to switch it to sensored ?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Nope, it'll automatically detect whether or not it is sensored.



Anybody feeling lucky?

120a ESC & T-Shirt Giveaway!

[tuner]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Nope, it'll automatically detect whether or not it is sensored.



Anybody feeling lucky?

120a ESC & T-Shirt Giveaway!

Cool thanks. Is it set to auto lipo too?