Building “Class 1” Yota & need advice

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Back in 2016 I built a Sawback and changed the front to four link but never drove it... Recently I dusted it off and put the unused front leaf setup back on. Goal = Class 1 Yota build (same WB 287mm or 11.3”)

So I put shorter shocks and canted rears forward (shocks in droop setup) and removed a leaf spring on all four. Ride height is spot on but WB is too long now. As seen below:





I understand that as the suspension compresses the rear axle will swing backwards due to the spring hanger location being in front of the rear axle (reason for longer WB).

So Is this something that a “shackle reversal” will fix?


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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Apologies... Used the wrong pic up top and can’t edit on This app?

This is how it currently sits:




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[TheLetterJ]

A shackle reversal will change the direction the springs travel when compressed, but it won't make your static wheelbase any shorter. I'd never run front mounted shackles on the rear suspension, but a front shackle reversal might still help your cause To get the tires out of the front of the front fender on compression. I used Tamiya Bruiser spring hangers and shackles (but not shackle hangers) to perform a front shackle reversal on my Sawback, minimal pictures here: Sawback time!

If the goal is to move the rear axle forward, have you considered drilling new holes in the chassis and sliding the existing spring/shackle hangers forward? Depending on how far it needs to move (because this will only buy you a few mm's), you may be able to remove the alignment pin from your spring plates, drill a new offset hole in the plate and spring perch, and just bolt through them.

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

If the goal is to move the rear axle forward, have you considered drilling new holes in the chassis and sliding the existing spring/shackle hangers forward?.

Dude, I was just reading your thread before posting my question... weird!

I didn’t realize shackle reversal swapped hangers and shackles respectively. I thought it was a trick to put more “arch” in the springs... thanks for clearing that up. Definitely counter intuitive doing that to the rears.

Regarding what you mentioned above, would you need to use a different hanger on the Sawback frame since the frames dimensions change immediately in front of their original mounting location?








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[TheLetterJ]

Have you measured exactly how far you want to move the rear axle forward? I was thinking you could scoot the front hanger forward until its rearmost hole lines up with where the front hole currently is. You may need to put some twist into that hanger with a couple pairs of pliers, or try a combination of thick/thin shims on each side of the frame to try to compensate for the bend in the frame, depending on how bad the hanger gets into the outwards contour of the frame. The shackle hanger could then be flipped in its current location so that it points forward instead of backwards.

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Have you measured exactly how far you want to move the rear axle forward? I was thinking you could scoot the front hanger forward until its rearmost hole lines up with where the front hole currently is. You may need to put some twist into that hanger with a couple pairs of pliers, or try a combination of thick/thin shims on each side of the frame to try to compensate for the bend in the frame, depending on how bad the hanger gets into the outwards contour of the frame. The shackle hanger could then be flipped in its current location so that it points forward instead of backwards.

That might just work, I keep forgetting theres spacers on the outside of the frame... Thank you, ill have to give it a try.

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Sort of followed TheLetterJ’s advice, except I always thought the moto was “Read once, DRILL HACK JAM DRILL, then read again...”

What I did to fix the rear was scoot the leading hole on front hanger to the next available hole on the frame (~ 10mm) instead of just moving the hanger over 1 hole on ITSELF. Oh well....

WB is JUST too short. In any case the rear swings backwards and fills the arch nicely.





Measurements and hanger relocation:







(Rough draft for now) To compensate for the angle of the hangers I “chino” mod the springs. I’ll mod the hanger if needed later...



Also I flipped the rear hangers and gonna see if that’s ok. So far the suspension actually feels like suspension. It’s an improvement over how the Sawback felt when it was stock??? (As a roller)




[edit: the Sawback axles are too wide for class 1 I think, so can we change a thread title to something more appropriate?]



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[cathyarnold]

Originally Posted by VR6 BeelzeDub

Sort of followed TheLetterJ’s advice, except I always thought the moto was “Read once, DRILL HACK JAM DRILL, then read again...”

What I did to fix the rear was scoot the leading hole on front hanger to the next available hole on the frame (~ 10mm) instead of just moving the hanger over 1 hole on ITSELF. Oh well....
run 3
WB is JUST too short. In any case the rear swings backwards and fills the arch nicely.

Measurements and hanger relocation:

(Rough draft for now) To compensate for the angle of the hangers I “chino” mod the springs. I’ll mod the hanger if needed later...

Also I flipped the rear hangers and gonna see if that’s ok. So far the suspension actually feels like suspension. It’s an improvement over how the Sawback felt when it was stock??? (As a roller)

[edit: the Sawback axles are too wide for class 1 I think, so can we change a thread title to something more appropriate?]

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That looks great!