1.9 Barrage RTR 1/10 Crawler

[Mongol Pete]

[IMG][/IMG]

I think I'll finally be happy with our ECX Barrage now that it is reborn as The Midnight BOOrrage!

SCX 10 style axles
HSP 18024 transmission/540 motor

[hillbillyrc]

Do you plan on lowering the body down ?

[Mongol Pete]

Hi hillbilly,

No, I am going to try to run it like that first to avoid having to chop the fenders too much. With this one. I am more interested in a cool-looking trail truck than a comp crawler. It'd be nice if it climbs well, but I don't mind the lifted look. Can you see the picture okay?

[hillbillyrc]

Ok. And yeah I can see pic phone didn't load it when I first looked.

[Tundratrader]

Originally Posted by Mongol Pete

Hi hillbilly,

No, I am going to try to run it like that first to avoid having to chop the fenders too much. With this one. I am more interested in a cool-looking trail truck than a comp crawler. It'd be nice if it climbs well, but I don't mind the lifted look. Can you see the picture okay?

Not seeing any pics. Hey hillbilly. I just got a Barrage kit. I went to cut the rear driveline down. It is not very long to start with. Is your 3/8-1/2 meant for the gen 1?


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[hillbillyrc]

Put it together first.
Not sure if the kit comes with the bump stops on the shock shafts. If they do and you get rid of them or cut them in half. Compress the suspension and see if the shock bottom out before the drive shaft. If the shocks do your good. If the driveshaft bottoms out before shock do you will need to trim the male side of the drive shaft. Start at 3/8" and test it out again if still binding trim a little more.
This was a gen 1 problem but looking for drive shafts this morning (for my own project) the part number is the same for gen1/ doomsday/kit/gen2. So it still might be an issue. Its more prevalent when you raise the upper shock mounting point to the highest mounting hole.

Hope this makes sense and helps

[Tundratrader]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

Put it together first.

Not sure if the kit comes with the bump stops on the shock shafts. If they do and you get rid of them or cut them in half. Compress the suspension and see if the shock bottom out before the drive shaft. If the shocks do your good. If the driveshaft bottoms out before shock do you will need to trim the male side of the drive shaft. Start at 3/8" and test it out again if still binding trim a little more.

This was a gen 1 problem but looking for drive shafts this morning (for my own project) the part number is the same for gen1/ doomsday/kit/gen2. So it still might be an issue. Its more prevalent when you raise the upper shock mounting point to the highest mounting hole.



Hope this makes sense and helps

That makes sense. It is built I will take a pic when I get to the shop. Had to epoxy the rear 4 link mount until a new stock axle shows up. I have an entire shop at my disposal but couldn’t find an axle housing I wanted to use. I may go the scx route down the road but love the light weight and simplicity stock. I want to figure out a brushless motor. But all thE small ones are to high a kv. I might just switch in a 1080wp speed control for now.


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[hillbillyrc]

I think the stock esc is re-branded 1060 but the 1080 is a great esc. I plan on picking one up for mine since my rgt came with esc/rx 2 n'1 setup. The transmitter is a 3ch tho.

[Tundratrader]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

I think the stock esc is re-branded 1060 but the 1080 is a great esc. I plan on picking one up for mine since my rgt came with esc/rx 2 n'1 setup. The transmitter is a 3ch tho.

They are the best brushed motor esc especially for crawlers. The guys here swear by them.




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[hillbillyrc]

Go though the test I mentioned if it bottoms out before the shock it need trimmed

[Tundratrader]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

Go though the test I mentioned if it bottoms out before the shock it need trimmed

Here it is. Suspension hits first.

I am not sure. What you mean with tray flip either. I am running a full size savox wp servo. Don’t see how it can be improved.




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[hillbillyrc]

I can't see the shocks good but to me the driveshaft bottoms out before the shocks. Unless the shocks have the full bump stops still on them hard to tell.

The flip tray deal. Its the cross brace under that gets flip above the servo. Its not much but when flip you gain just enough that the servo doesn't hit and you get all the suspension up travel you have to use.

Again the bump stops on the shock shaft are the main difference if left to full length and in middle mounting position on the shock tower its harder to notice. When you move the upper shock mount up and cut the bump stops in half its more noticeable when you cycle the suspension you will see the things hit and bottom out before the shock taken away your up travel.

[tuxstang]

I have the kit but still had to shorten my front driveshaft. Full size 20kg servo without brace above (battery relocated sideways between the transmission and the shock towers), shocks at their highest position, the driveshaft was bottoming before the shocks. Had to remove ~2-3mm from the female side.

[tuxstang]

I just removed the brace above the servo, there's still a brace around the rear of the shock towers so there should be enough rigidity, there's not that much efforts on the rails past the shock towers.
Still have to drive it though, maybe I was a bit too optimist.

[hillbillyrc]

There is 4 chassis braces besides the bumper mounts. Well at least on the gen1. They put the braces at each end of the shock tower.

[tuxstang]

I'll take a shot when back from work but as far as I remember, I removed this one :


Should get a drive this week-end, just to be sure ... if the chassis requires more bracing, I'll design and print another one that'll still give room for the servo at full compression.

[hillbillyrc]

You could just move it back if there is room.
I have one up front besides my front trans but that's farther back towards the bend down to the middle.

[tuxstang]

Can't get a clean pic of it, my camera is dead, but anyway, I have no room for a brace between the rails with the servo at full travel.

I've compared with the rear of the chassis that still have its two braces ... without the bumper mounts, the rails flexes the same so it doesn't seem to be that critical, the second brace seems more as a support for the battery/ESC tray than anything with how soft the plastic is ... the bumper mounts are enough to prevent the rails from splitting.

My project if more a trail ride with a Brat lexan body and small all-around tires so doesn't need to be as sturdy as a comp truck. If needed, I may just add a simple tube brace between the lower holes of the shock tower posts.

[Shinchu]

so you guys running full size servos... are you putting spacers between the servo and mount, to make clearance for the rear of the servo?
i put rod end swivels under mine and it was perfect. still have the brace (flipped) shock limiters in half, drive shaft trimmed. GREAT articulation with no binding anywhere. (even lowered the body and raised the shocks for lower CG)
the only aftermarket parts are pitbull growler 1.55 on gearhead wheels. my son ran the truck like that on 2s 2000mah lipo at proline by the fire and it RIPPED up the trails!!!
just tires!!! its all you need for this thing to be just as good as rigs that cost DOUBLE!

thanks again hillbilly!

*"Hero photo" of my son's Barrage at Proline (yes its a v1 its plastidipped green on the outside)

[tuxstang]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

so you guys running full size servos... are you putting spacers between the servo and mount, to make clearance for the rear of the servo?

Spacers are needed with inboard shocks to run a full-size servo, with the outboard shocks, they are not needed.