04-13-2011, 10:50 AM | #2641 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 852
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Got a question for you, I just bought a micro sidewinder to run my brushless rc4wd winch but I cant get it to run. I checked all the settings and the lights flash in sync with the remote. Any suggestions ? I was also wondering, if I cant get it to work could I send it to you to figure out? Thanks
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04-13-2011, 10:54 AM | #2642 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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I could certainly take a gander at it. I haven't seen the winch units, so I don't know what could be going on.
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04-13-2011, 11:19 AM | #2643 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 852
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Ok, can you pm me an address to send it to and a price |
04-16-2011, 03:24 PM | #2644 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: citrus heights
Posts: 184
| motor break in
just got a torquemaster 55t. do i need to break it in?
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04-17-2011, 01:21 AM | #2645 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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John, I sent my ESC your way, hopefully you can fix it.
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04-18-2011, 08:30 AM | #2646 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: crawlorado
Posts: 555
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this is a second post....i really need an answer...hope you get back from ecc soon john.....cant drive my rig right now Ive got a dumb question, i suspect my torquemaster pro 45t has dropped a coil? ....3 different sets of brushes...2 different sets of springs..(can and endbell is cleanno debris)..motor wont start on its own but spins ok if spun then given power....also theier is a definite week spot in the brakes when turn by hand out of the gearboxes......ive been running them on 3s since sept in a xr10..never really got hot and was still running on the original brushes....front motor was about 1/2 way down and rear has a little more...im lost...maybe just dropped a coil? ....it started to stall a bit in the front 3 comps ago and figured it was a bearing or something in the axles but it just got worse...swapped motors around front to rear...motor is the end failure...can you buy just the armature? |
04-18-2011, 09:44 AM | #2647 | |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
| John Holmes 716 W. Sexton rd. Columbia, mO 65203 No worries on price, I will take a look at it no charge if you pay for return shipping. It is ready to go, already broken in. Quote:
Last edited by badger; 06-21-2012 at 11:24 AM. Reason: address change | |
04-18-2011, 10:23 AM | #2648 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 852
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Ok I will send out this morning, I put the factory controller in as well
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04-18-2011, 02:21 PM | #2649 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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John, I picked up some new brushes and springs from you for my 10t puller. My question is how do I re-assemble the motor? The springs look like they have to go in before the motor is assembled, but then the brushes interfere with the commutator. What's the proper re-assembly technique? Thanks! Tommy |
04-18-2011, 02:24 PM | #2650 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Install the armature, put on the endbell without the springs. Install springs, then set the timing. Be sure there is a touch of play in the arm before tightening down the endbell.
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04-18-2011, 02:28 PM | #2651 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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Thanks, John. I didn't think there would be room to do that once it's assembled, but I'll give it a try tonight!
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04-18-2011, 02:33 PM | #2652 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Dont puncture your fingers doing it, the springs are sharp. It is a lot harder to install the endbell with the springs on, than it is to install the springs into the motor. The sad part is it took me a few years to figure that out. If you want to do it the hard way, use a small wooden stick to push the brushes apart while you put the motor together. |
04-18-2011, 03:33 PM | #2653 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: vegas
Posts: 202
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...
Last edited by sabohead; 04-18-2011 at 04:00 PM. |
04-18-2011, 03:56 PM | #2654 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Stuff like the tekin redline, novak sensored 540s, or any other ROAR approved motor is what I am talking about. They are all two pole to be usable in most of the 1/10th scale roar racing classes. The first >2 pole sensored motor to be released will likely be the Tekin roc 412 or The Revolver S.
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04-19-2011, 08:04 AM | #2655 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: crawlorado
Posts: 555
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considering the motor never ran hot...still on the original brushes and never needed to be cut im considering this motor defective...if all you going to do for a customer who...used to work a a hobby shop and would sell Holmes over tekin castle and novak.....has run your stuff for 2yrs and always promoted your stuff......is tell them yeah tough ish go buy a new armature....ill just go buy some broods....thats 6 motors in total to replace ....and 3 esc's ....thanx john...feeling really good about the service...i love your products but if its gonna be no support then i need to go elsewhere |
04-22-2011, 04:09 PM | #2656 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sunshine Coast, Noosa
Posts: 64
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Just quick question. I have ordered a HH torque master esc and ordered a field tunning card to use with it. Does the field tuning card/pc link work with your esc? or do I need to get the pc link? |
04-22-2011, 04:44 PM | #2657 | |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
| Quote:
You will need the PC link for my ESC. Need me to change the order? | |
04-22-2011, 06:13 PM | #2658 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: crawlorado
Posts: 555
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my apologies...i thought since i had explained that i was on the first set of brushes and havent cut the comm or anything that the motor was still low hours...... so admitingly i was a little bent when i got that response, ill be a little more clear next time....so here is the rest of the scenario...it started to stall a little bit in the front so i figured maybe i got funk on it of something so i used rouge cloth and polished the comm...cleaned out the area between the pads and such..brushes/springs bench testing..put the motor back together lubed the bearings...put it in...still the same...played with my gear mesh...improved but not much....on that drive the front started to stall badly so i knew something was wrong...thinking i blew a bearing in my axles i took it back to the bench....sat the truck on its back and was trying to spin the axles and the front motor arced hard....took the motor out and found no continuity between all coils...just 2..... i always monitor my motors and temps to make sure im not gonna blow anything, things have been running cool to warm. I dunno ive never had any of my cheap motors do this at this stage of life...its your call man, i apologies for not being more concise before.....flapjack edit...was going to include pics of the comm etc but i dont have any calipers at the moment to verify the size of the com etc....
Last edited by flapjack; 04-22-2011 at 06:18 PM. |
04-22-2011, 07:32 PM | #2659 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sunshine Coast, Noosa
Posts: 64
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04-23-2011, 08:29 PM | #2660 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 1,307
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Sending a BRXL your way Monday. I finally got around to putting it in a truck this evening, and there's no output. It appears to calibrate and arm, and the lights blink just like my other two BRXL's with throttle input at the tx, just that there's no output when hooked up to a motor or voltmeter. Order 5920 |
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