(HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread

[mudn_1]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Can you be more specific on the battery?

Try keeping the 25t pinion and adjusting your timing from 12 to 24 degrees. You won't see a big increase in speed, but you should see a pretty healthy increase in power and torque at the wheel.

Alternatively you could drop down to a 30 or 25t armature to get more power. The motor will require more maintenance with the hotter armature.

I'm not sure how to adjust timing on this motor......it was a build from a motor I had laying around...... the lipo is one of yours 3s 1300mah.....the integy motor I was talking about is pretty worn thats why I thought I could put the can to good use, or possibly buy one of your sport motors in like a 20t or so...... whatever you think?

[Macmanthizz]

Hi John I a recently put 2 11t 454's in my rs10 I am running 8t pinion in back n 10t in frOnt super rooster rev. Esc and 10cell 3800 mah battery I have barely ran it since I put it together I couple days ago but my battery dies after 3-5 min........? Do u have any suggestions for longer runtime? Less voltage on batter I'm runnin maybe ur 16t would suit me better now that they are available I'm stumped on how short my runtime is thanks for any help I can get

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by .bg.

Pretty n00b here, but here goes:

I'm running a CC01 with the stock Tamiya 27t motor. It definitely needs more torque/low speed control, however, I *love* being able to race it around at 10-15mph as well. I assumed that other than minor variations between motor brands and pinion setups I would have to sacrifice this top end in order to get additional low speed torque. Is this not the case? Would a "puller" or some other type of motor still give me the stock 27t wheel speed, but give me the low speed torque more on par with (for example) an Integy 55t?

A large part of my running is in water/mud, so I wouldn't want it to be destroyed very quickly or too expensive...

If so, awesome! (I see you mention saturation as being the limit, this wouldn't mean that I'd need to run another type of 7.2v battery or esc than a regular 10t or whatever compatible setup, correct?) I'd prefer to not have to go the lipo route to achieve this.

Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Since you will be mudding, I would suggest to just add some voltage to a cheap motor. Your 55t motor can take 4s lipo pretty easily. More torque and more power.

Originally Posted by mudn_1

I'm not sure how to adjust timing on this motor......it was a build from a motor I had laying around...... the lipo is one of yours 3s 1300mah.....the integy motor I was talking about is pretty worn thats why I thought I could put the can to good use, or possibly buy one of your sport motors in like a 20t or so...... whatever you think?

The sport motors will only be offered in 35, 45, and 55t. Sounds like a rebuild with a handwound armature would be a good way for you to go.

Originally Posted by Macmanthizz

Hi John I a recently put 2 11t 454's in my rs10 I am running 8t pinion in back n 10t in frOnt super rooster rev. Esc and 10cell 3800 mah battery I have barely ran it since I put it together I couple days ago but my battery dies after 3-5 min........? Do u have any suggestions for longer runtime? Less voltage on batter I'm runnin maybe ur 16t would suit me better now that they are available I'm stumped on how short my runtime is thanks for any help I can get

Your battery is likely bad. That isn't right for the capacity. What kind of cells are they?

[Macmanthizz]

Greenforce cells it's a pack off eBay that ships from hong kong that's prolly the mistake I made right there buying a battery like this one....

[JohnRobHolmes]

I can't find em on ebay. Probably just low discharge rate cells.

[Macmanthizz]

Here is a direct link to the page on eBay, I am almost certain it's just a junk battery pack wit low discharge cells I found a guy who is sending me some 14t arms to throw in my cans this should accommodate me even better for crawling the cobalts are bad ass I really hope it all works good for my truck in the end....... Thanks John here is the link if u have time to look...........


http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pcs-12V-3800mA...#ht_2851wt_860

[JohnRobHolmes]

Yeah, just cheap cells that are giving out fast. May be a bad cell in the pack too.

[Macmanthizz]

Ok so I talked wit u the other day about my battery dying so quickly, I am running the rs10 wit super rooster and 11t cobalts.... I wanna run 10 cell what would be a good 10 cell choice with a good runtime wit the cobalts I know they draw a lot of amps so I think I need something wit a decent mah even though I will take breaks during driving due to motor heat. Thanks John any recommendations u sell or anyone else sells will be greatly appreciated!

[V3500]

I had a couple of questions regarding your bushed esc. Do you recommend running an external bec, and if you do how would you wire it in? It would be going in an scx10. Thanks

[YJJPWrangler]

Hey John, I just bought a BRXL from you, packaged arrived today. I got everything soldered up and I am having some trouble with it. It seems like my motor has a "dead"spot in it. It will run fine, but if I stop, it won't move again. If i rotate the wheels by hand, I can usually get going again. Here is what I'm running:

BRXL
35t Torquemaster
JR 133 Rx and JR XR3 Tx.

I'm not running a BEC to my steering servo(7995TG) or to my dig servo(645MG). Any ideas?

EDIT: I've got the drag brake set at 25% and no hold brake.

Zack

[Macmanthizz]

Never mind John goin lipo.......

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by V3500

I had a couple of questions regarding your bushed esc. Do you recommend running an external bec, and if you do how would you wire it in? It would be going in an scx10. Thanks

For a stock scx10 you won't need a BEC, but if you use a servo above 300ounce/ inch you will likely need one. The easiest method is to remove the red wire from the ESC RX plug, and plug the BEC into a spare slot on the RX.

Originally Posted by YJJPWrangler

Hey John, I just bought a BRXL from you, packaged arrived today. I got everything soldered up and I am having some trouble with it. It seems like my motor has a "dead"spot in it. It will run fine, but if I stop, it won't move again. If i rotate the wheels by hand, I can usually get going again. Here is what I'm running:

BRXL
35t Torquemaster
JR 133 Rx and JR XR3 Tx.

I'm not running a BEC to my steering servo(7995TG) or to my dig servo(645MG). Any ideas?

EDIT: I've got the drag brake set at 25% and no hold brake.

Zack

Is it a brand new motor, or does it have some runtime? It either needs some attention, or it has a bum segment.

Originally Posted by Macmanthizz

Never mind John goin lipo.......

Go 3s!

[YJJPWrangler]

It is not a new motor. I purchased it here, but was told that it didn't have a lot of hours on it. Is there anything I can do to fix it, or send it in to you? BTW, the BRXL is really nice .

[JohnRobHolmes]

The first thing is to inspect it. Most likely a comm cut and brush change will solve the issue. You can send it in to me for a $10 total service ($5 for return shipping) if you don't have the resources. http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php...&cat=23&page=1

[tim the toolman]

Just thought I'd comment & say thanks. I got a 33turn torquemaster for my mrc last week. My mrc has a lot of mods, but still has the stock(modded) chassis and stock electronics. I'm very happy because the motor works great, haven't changed the gearing, and the stock esc still runs my 5955 servo just fine! And I have a pretty good drag brake now, I guess cuzz of the strong magnets in the motor? So now I might as well keep the stock electronics for now- they work just fine for me

[YJJPWrangler]

John,
I took the motor apart and cleaned it, The comm looked like it had some grooves in it. I put it back together and didn't have any issues with it wanting to find that "dead" spot. I slow crawled it and it was fine, couldn't do it before. After running it for a bit, it started acting up, I could see electric flashes from the endbell of the motor and the motor would twitch in forward and reverse, sometimes violently. I quit driving it and will most likely send it in to you. Have any ideas on what it is doing? Could I have advanced the timing on it causing this problem?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Tim- The stronger magnets do give better drag. Glad you like it!

YJJP- If you advanced the timing too far it could have caused some damage to the comm gap. Sounds like you need a good comm cut at least, but the damage may have been done.

[YJJPWrangler]

John, if I want to send this back to you, do I need to drop it in the mail and then pay for it on your website? Or do I need to wait until you take a look at it and let me know whats going on with it?

Thanks,

Zack

[JohnRobHolmes]

Either way you want to do. Paying in advance puts you in line, whereas waiting to pay will get your order in line at time of payment.

[dragrcr]

Hey John, thanks for the easy acess to you and your products.
I got a question,
I got one of your motors (torque master pro) here on RCC on a bulk motor lot buy. The motor was in good shape and after turning the comm and cleaning and lube job it is running great with lots of torque. So I decided to put it in the front of my xr10 and put a tekin machine in the rear, and now the tekin wants to turn much faster and earlier than your motor, I attribute this to the difference in hand winding, heavier springs, lay down brushes, and 4 magnets.

So i decided I need a new matching one for the rear, and I only see 2 magnet motors int the order forum. Is there a way to get a matching motor for this one?

It's a 45t, 4magnet can, 10mm comm lay down brushed with soldered brushes and black springs... It's got your sticker on it, the big sticker, not just a round one, it has your end bell and is VERY nicely and tightly wound by the way. Thanks for your help...