T.O.R.C. tuber - build log

[getbent]

Got some more tube work done. Now I just need to finish the tubing in the rear, weld on some nuts for the body panels, and make shock mounts. Then comes links and mounts. Got some carbon arrow shaft for the links, thanks for the tip, works GREAT!!
PICS...

[joemomma95]

OK, I admit it, I loved the clocked tranny idea so much I stole it, I just got through making something similar to yours and I've got some questions. How far is too far to mount the driveshafts off center? Squeezing the tranny mount in between two plates is going to prove to be difficult keeping the driveshafts anywhere near center....just wondering how far off center yours is offset if you don't mind telling, if not no biggie I guess I can live and learn with it, just trying to figure out how to set up things in order to create my chassis side plates.

Wish I had the skills to do a nice tuber like yours but that's gonna have to wait a while, I love the way this is coming together...

[DaveFL]

Man The clocked tranny mount is great! I spent all night last night working on how to mount my clocked tranny on my WK scale on a MFM chasis and came up with a simalar idea but yours works even better!

Gonna steal it, and hope ya don't mind

[DaveFL]

What thickness alum are you using? I made rough one with 1/8 was worred about it flexing but its tuff to work with a dremmel on, that looks thinner than 1/8.

Thanks

Dave

[getbent]

Originally Posted by joemomma95

How far is too far to mount the driveshafts off center? Squeezing the tranny mount in between two plates is going to prove to be difficult keeping the driveshafts anywhere near center....just wondering how far off center yours is offset if you don't mind telling,

My output yokes on the tranny are approx 1 1/8" off center, should be no problems with binding, there is still a lot of motion left in the U joint. Of course I haven't driven it yet so I can't promise anything!

Originally Posted by DaveFL

What thickness alum are you using? I made rough one with 1/8 was worred about it flexing but its tuff to work with a dremmel on, that looks thinner than 1/8.

You should be fine with 1/8, I don't know the thickness of mine, but it looks about 1/16". Mine doesn't hardly flex at all, but if it becomes an issue I'll just add a small brace on the back running from the top of the tranny down to the skid plate.

[joemomma95]

Thanks for the info on the offset, mine is sitting close to 1"-1 1/2" off center, I got the side plates done and the cutting board skid done today and looking at it your right, there is alot of play left in the shafts, shouldn't be a problem at all..

[smokinubyrc]

DUDE that tuber is MEAN looking

i love it and cant wait to get my wk

[run2jeepn]

Very Nice...You have a great start and one of the best WK builds going right now...I'll have to keep checking in on this one.....

[getbent]

Thanks guys for all the comments!!

I got some more work done to it yesterday. I also picked up some new Mashers and Rpm Revolver wheels, the moabs were just for mock up and have to go back on my other crawler. I got the front axle mounted. The lower links are made from carbon fiber arrow tube, and the upper three link bar is made from a T-Maxx long travel upper A arm. Also got the shocks mounted as a droop set up, we'll see how that works out. Hope to have this thing finished by next weekend! ( fingers crossed ) I still need to narrow the wheels and put on rock rings once I decide what color I'm going to paint it.

PICS...

[Wrecker]

Looking great. This thing is going to be awesome!

[SACCO]

what kinda WB are you shootin for?

Looks awesome so far.

[getbent]

There aren't really any comps around here so I was going to set the WB at 13 - 13 1/2", but I may go ahead and drop it to 12 1/2" just in case. Also, I can't decide between rear steer or front dig set up. Kinda leaning toward rear steer. Hope to get more work done tonight.

[SACCO]

Originally Posted by getbent

There aren't really any comps around here so I was going to set the WB at 13 - 13 1/2", but I may go ahead and drop it to 12 1/2" just in case. Also, I can't decide between rear steer or front dig set up. Kinda leaning toward rear steer. Hope to get more work done tonight.

same here. no comps. I was at 13" but changed to 60/40 and it got me to 12.25. Just looks better too. I am puttin rear steer on mine tonight I hope. The only other crawler here in northeast Louisiana is a clod with 4 wheel steering so I might as well have it too.

[pbfrk4life]

where do you plan on mounting your battery?

[getbent]

It's been a while, but I finqlly got some more work done on my tuber. First are pics of my narrowed wheels and home made rock rings. The rings are made from 1 1/2" electrical reducing washers from Lowe's. Next is the chassis before paint and trimming. Tomorrow I will paint it and begin reassembling the crawler and make body panels. I geared it 96/15 with a 65T Lathe motor, crawls great, but the motor started ticking for no reason. I took it apart and there is no trash in the motor or sign of damage, so I guess I wil try new brushes. Anyway, on to the PICS...















More to come soon!!

[slowcrawl]

Here is how I did mine with "Harley's" clocked template....

[scorpion_king]

looks nice. how did you mount up the T-Maxx arm?

[getbent]

Slowcrawl; your trans mount looks great, should be very sturdy. I wish i had a little thicker aluminum for my mount, but with a few test runs it seems to work great. No signs of flex! I think I will make my next mount out of cutting board material.

Originally Posted by pbfrk4life

where do you plan on mounting your battery?

I haven't figured out the battery mount yet, most likely It will be mounted on the axle. I will probably use a 7cell 2/3A pack. Anybody know what kind of run times to expect out of a 1500mah 2/3a cell pack??

[Kranberry]

daum your joints are so clean nice work dude

[getbent]

Originally Posted by scorpion_king

looks nice. how did you mount up the T-Maxx arm?

I brazed in two cross tubes, 1 for the front and 1 for the rear. Then I brazed on two nuts to each cross bar. The T-Maxx A arm fits right between the two nuts, and then thread a bolt through the nuts into the pivot hole in the A-arm. A 4-40 screw fits just right in the arms, there is not much play, but still pivots freely. Here is a pic of the mounts.

Originally Posted by cjkranwinkle@cableone.net

daum your joints are so clean nice work dude

Thanks, I really hate grinding, so I focus on making good clean joints that don't have to be cleaned much. Just a little touch with the wire wheel and you're done.