Blib's MRC

[chris.martell]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Well that's really lame then.

Having hub options is nice for messing with track width, or fitting wider/skinnier tires after the rig is built.

Not to mention the fitment of knuckle weights. Not a fan of weighted wheels.

Dumb question perhaps, would using the short side of the AR60 housing shorten the finished product?

You could make it narrowed by using the short side but you lose the link placement being fairly close.

[chris.martell]

Originally Posted by BliB

Chris, how wide is your axel between the splines, c-hub to c-hub?

It measures 84mm. What is yours?

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by chris.martell

You could make it narrowed by using the short side but you lose the link placement being fairly close.

The distance from the link mount to the end of the axle tube is exactly the same, short side, or long side.

So it doesn't really matter which side you use.

That's a fixed distance.

The long tubes just leave a nicer finished product since the pumpkin gussets are molded around the short side link mount area.

It was a dumb question after all....

[chris.martell]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

The distance from the link mount to the end of the axle tube is exactly the same, short side, or long side.

So it doesn't really matter which side you use.

That's a fixed distance.

The long tubes just leave a nicer finished product since the pumpkin gussets are molded around the short side link mount area.

It was a dumb question after all....

I disagree with the dumb question part.

I was referring to the center to center of the link mounts. Making the axle shorter would move those closer there for one would have to make there own link mounts because the ones on the axle would be useless. My axle already mounts the links and shocks to the outside of the mount, which is fairly close to the original width.

[BliB]

MRCrackhead:

I think haveing the possibility to have 58* steering and a "bomb proof" axel is worth way more than beeing abel to run different hubs, seems like most guys are running their rigs at close to 8" just to get it to sidehill without rolling

Had a friend over yesturday and he had 1,9 plastic touring rims wich we use for testing/meassuring.
What i saw i like!
Think it will work great with 15mm wide wheels and the short axial plastic hub!

Chris:

84mm is exactly what i had!

[BliB]

Dravpnir not a bad idea!
But for now i will keep it "simpel".
Started with this rig cause i believed it was ready to go! But I cant leave it alone!
When i'm done i've put way to many $$$ and way to much time into this rig than i intended to!
Heck, even when i baught it i went to far with the $$$ then I intended ;)

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

MRCrackhead:

I think haveing the possibility to have 58* steering and a "bomb proof" axel is worth way more than beeing abel to run different huvs.

You're misunderstanding what I'm saying.

I have XR steering on my mini.

I'm doing it with 725 SLW hubs and a full set of knuckle weights inside the wheels.

While your method is cool, it just limits your options.

Maybe some people don't mind that, but my preference is to have it all, instead of just some.

[BliB]

Didn't know you had that!

I actually dont like either the wraith or the xr mod, tge wraithmod put the linkmounts to close to the center if you want to be able to run wide hubs.
The xr i simply think is to weak with the to halves and hard to drill/grind out the halves to fit the mrc axel inside!

I choose the wraithmod cause i think it is the most solid and easier to make!

I can still shorten the tubes if i want to but at the moment i think i will be able to fit some knuckle wheight!

If i can fit 1 full RCBros brass ring i will have 1.3oz/ side right there!
If i need to add more wheight i can add some to the wheels wich will help me with rolloverability!

I actually plan to use brass spacers in the wheels!
They will add about 1/3oz per wheel compared to delrin or nylon spacers

[chris.martell]

Blib I believe you have options. I can see crackheads point with being able to use different hubs to get the track width you want and still being able to use a conventional knuckle weight setup. I've seen his rig in action and have driven at a couple of our comps and it flat out preforms. On the other hand I see your point to have a stronger axle with better steering without making custom parts from scratch. With all that said let me get to some options I've found that won't require any change to your axle. 1st dluxfab wheel weight holders that attach between the wheel face and hub that you can stack his brass rings towards the back of the wheel and knuckle. 2nd I believe blue monkey makes a clamping knuckle weight you can simply clamp to the knuckles. 3rd this one requires some fab work to your axles to be able to run hub options. Being that you have a lathe turn the axle tubes down behind the splines to the size of the chubs inside diameter and cut the excess tube off, hopefully leaving some of the splines but if not oh well.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

I actually dont like either the wraith or the xr mod, the wraithmod put the linkmounts to close to the center if you want to be able to run wide hubs.
The xr i simply think is to weak with the to halves and hard to drill/grind out the halves to fit the mrc axel inside!

I agree completely. That's why I custom built mine using brass beeftubes.

I think between your ideas, and the options Chris listed, you'll be able to work it out.

Very interested in the 1.9 wheels you've come up with.

Always like more options.

[BliB]

Chris;

That third option sounds great!
Really dont know if we need that 5x11x4 bearing in the axel?

MRCrackhead;

Actually i was thinking about useing one of many AX10 splined beeftubes combined with a linkmount like they have on the berg tubes but it would basicly be the same as this but prolly way more expensive!


The wheels i have ordered or the wheels i used to meassure?

The wheels i have ordered are regular carbon fiber style wheels but instead of delrin, nylon or aluminum spacers i decided to go with brass!

The 1,9" plastic touring wheels are some hpi wheels 1" wide 0 ofset.

[MRCrackhead]

I don't run the outer bearing on my mini. No issues that I can see.

Here's my front axle so you can use any ideas from it.

Mary Shelley's MRC

Axle build starts at post #6.


You have access to much better equipment than I do, so maybe you could do what I did, only better.

It was my first attempt at a hybrid axle, and I'm very happy with it.

Of course, there's always room for improvement.

The rig has changed a lot, and continues to do so.

[BliB]

How did you lock the c-hub on the tube so it sits in place not slipping without the splines?

Any how, there is 1000 solitions to a problem i think i'm not haveing ;)

[chris.martell]

There's no need for that bearing really. My mini and my sporty don't use it because of my universals and choice of chubs and knuckles. But I've never experienced an adverse affect

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

How did you lock the c-hub on the tube so it sits in place not slipping without the splines?

The fitment onto the brass tubes was so tight, it was very difficult to get them on, or off.

I use only the two screws to hold them in place, so far no issues.

My plan all along was to tap a set screw into the brass on the backside once I was 100% happy with the caster setting.

Careful placement should allow you to have 2 or 3 "settings" by simply moving the set screw to a different hole.

I set it, and forgot about it. Just hasn't been an issue, yet.

[BliB]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

The fitment onto the brass tubes was so tight, it was very difficult to get them on, or off.

I use only the two screws to hold them in place, so far no issues.

My plan all along was to tap a set screw into the brass on the backside once I was 100% happy with the caster setting.

Careful placement should allow you to have 2 or 3 "settings" by simply moving the set screw to a different hole.

I set it, and forgot about it. Just hasn't been an issue, yet.

Cool!
I was running a non splined thaught but i canned it cause i was affraid the c-hub would, if not the first run but soon, start slipping on the tube.

I tend to over think stuff most of the time!
Got it from my father, he loves doing stuff so often when i go there to borrow his lathe, he is the one operating it.

When he turned down the mrc axel he shelfed the callipers cause it wasn't accurate enough... Sure everything fits perfect but chasing 0,01 takes time! And yeah i ment 0,01mm

[BliB]

Rc18 66t Spur gear



Making the flat surfaces on the driveshafts!



Finished driveshaft,

Need to grind them to allow more steering!

Now i'm waiting for part to arrive from RCBros, DLux and Amain!

[winnerone23]

Ur way looks awfully professional.. a good bit more so then my dremel and eagle eye! Lmao... Nice work sir.

Grind them for more steering? By driving the little pin out and the rest falls apart?

[daver18qc]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Grind them for more steering? By driving the little pin out and the rest falls apart?

I am also curious about that. I thought only CVD's could be ground a bit for more angle, but not this type of joint.

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by daver18qc

I am also curious about that. I thought only CVD's could be ground a bit for more angle, but not this type of joint.

Here's a picture of mine.

Ground around the base of the pin holes.

Also beveled the ears of the pin holes.

Unfortunately, I painted them, so it's a bit harder to see.

Compare to the above photo, and you'll see what I mean.

They'll steer further than what is actually "useable" in the rig.