Blib's MRC

[MRCrackhead]

Sorry man, not trying to hijack your thread....

[BliB]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Ur way looks awfully professional.. a good bit more so then my dremel and eagle eye! Lmao... Nice work sir.

Grind them for more steering? By driving the little pin out and the rest falls apart?

It is not that proffesional, just a standard 5" cutting disc for angelgrinders mounted in the lathe!
This is a very simpel way off getting the to flat cutts paralell!

To be honest, all you guys out there, making stuff with a dremel and eagel eye that actually works, make my jaw drop!
Not that hard making stuff when you got proper tools and a old school tinkerer to help you out!

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Sorry man, not trying to hijack your thread....

Don't think you are!

I didnt get that pin out so i grinded it all without taking the joint apart!

It is possibel! Just the end result looks abit abused compared to taking it apart!

Bakun`s XR10 - RCCrawler

Here is a picture of one i made, gonna take better pictures and a few in progress shots to help you out!

The tools i use are cheap diamond bits for the dremel, i found a set with about 20 bits only 4-5 can be used to this! Complete set was about 10-11$ so after one joint is finished you can change the bit to!

[chris.martell]

The pins can be quite difficult to get out some times. Xr and wraith unis are a fairly easy clamp the lower ear in a vise and hit the punch with a good solid hit and that usually does the trick. I've even done them several times with my 2.0mm driver. OFNA unis on the other hand are a whole different animal and can be quite stubborn.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

[BliB]

Damn you yanks, living across the pond, making me wait for parts... :P

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

Damn you yanks, living across the pond, making me wait for parts... :P

Damn you sir!

The products/rigs/custom parts that come from you, and your tea sipping buddies over there, leave us all wondering how much, and how much for shipping.

I don't care how long it takes to get here! I gotta have it!

[BliB]

Woah! How about not crossing that tea sipping line? Damn Sweden is the country next to Finland that drink the most coffee in the world! Lol!

Well the cost of shipping tends to be very different!
I made a couple of lexan motorsavers/electronic plates and sent them to OzBruiser and that only cost 3$ without ensurance and tracking number, but since i sent them as a gift it was cheaper for me to make new ones!

[MRCrackhead]

Haha, I meant your buddies in Britian.

Coffee huh, is that what makes all your women so hot!

Cheers.

[BliB]

Yeah figured ;)

No actually vodka takes care of that! Even the ugliest girl can be prom queen with enough vodka!

[BliB]

Have anyone felt the need of a larger spur than 66t?
Looks like the "only" thing needed to fit a 70t is to make a longer output shaft, moving the drive shaft away from the tranny!
Larger spur should only be possitive?

If anyone of ya can motivate me to make a new one i will give it a shot!

[Ghost]

Get to work you!( Cracks the whip) LOL is that motivation enough?

[MRCrackhead]

I'm running the 66t, and feel I could use a tad more wheel speed.

Not sure if lower gearing is necessary. Is there an advantage to running a higher tooth count spur and then also a higher tooth pinion, essentially breaking even?

Haven't gone with a higher tooth pinion due to heat issues, but now that I have the new aluminum/heat sink motor plate those issues are gone.

Maybe I could pick up some wheel speed doing that now, but I'm actually planning to go 64t when some parts get here.

If I went 3s in the mini.....I would really like the option to gear it lower to combat the potential heat issues, and most likely to slow it down a bit.

I'm famous for saying "it's always nice to have options".

I'd put one in my mini just for that, but also because you'd make it out of super light, super strong material.....with holes instead of flat spots so I could pin my yokes instead of the set screw setup!

[daver18qc]

Originally Posted by BliB

Have anyone felt the need of a larger spur than 66t?
Looks like the "only" thing needed to fit a 70t is to make a longer output shaft, moving the drive shaft away from the tranny!
Larger spur should only be possitive?

If anyone of ya can motivate me to make a new one i will give it a shot!

I ran a 70t for a while with my RX280 motor and stock tranny.
My stock driveshafts still had clearance but tranny outputs were centered on the truck so that angle was better.
No chance of fitting the gear cover, though.
What i did was buy a Losi MLST/2 "bag o gear" with a 70 and a 76 if i remember correctly.
Had to drill the center hole bigger and also drill holes for the screws for it to fit the Kulak spur holder.
Don't know if the real losi spur holder is the same, though!

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Not sure if lower gearing is necessary. Is there an advantage to running a higher tooth count spur and then also a higher tooth pinion, essentially breaking even?

The advantage in that would be less gear noise, better gear mesh, less heat generated by the friction too i guess. Small gears tend to make a rattle while turning, even with near-perfect mesh.

[BliB]

Okey, was looking at the numbers and this is what i found out!

The stock setup 14pinion 60 spur give you 28,46 to 1 on the output shafts

Going 9 pinion 66 spur put you at 48,7

9t pinion 70t spur = 51,65

So i really dont think it will be worth the tedious work of making a new output shaft!

Must give credit to Dravpnir for counting the gears and to putting it all into an excel document! Thank you!

MRCrackhead, what pinion are you using with that 66 spur?

10pinion 66spur will give you the same speed as stock gearing on 2S

[daver18qc]

Originally Posted by BliB

Okey, was looking at the numbers and this is what i found out!

The stock setup 14pinion 60 spur give you 28,46 to 1 on the output shafts

Going 9 pinion 66 spur put you at 48,7

9t pinion 70t spur = 51,65

So i really dont think it will be worth the tedious work of making a new output shaft!

Must give credit to Dravpnir for counting the gears and to putting it all into an excel document! Thank you!

MRCrackhead, what pinion are you using with that 66 spur?

10pinion 66spur will give you the same speed as stock gearing on 2S

You have to divide the bigger gear by the smaller as this is a reduction, so your ratios woud be :

60 spur 14 pinion = 4.285
66 / 9 = 7.333
70 / 9 = 7.777

[BliB]

Dont know what numbers you are referring to? I show the numbers for the complete tranny! From motor turns to driveshaft turns

[BliB]

Anyone know if there is a solution to the ring gear? I would like even more parts! I really don't think 6 part 2 bearings and 8 screws is enough! Lets make it even more complicated! No less than 10 parts 15 screws is accepable!

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

MRCrackhead, what pinion are you using with that 66 spur?

10pinion 66spur will give you the same speed as stock gearing on 2S

Currently I have a 12t pinion with the 66t spur.

My experience with upgrading from a 55t to a 13t motor in my sportsman changed its ability to recover dramatically. The pure violence of the wheel speed just gets it moving, almost no matter what.

That's my reason for wanting more speed out of the mini, not for crawling purposes. It crawls just fine, recovery just seems often times hopeless. Much the same way my sportsman used to be.



Also, I wonder if leverage is any concern regarding the pinion vs the motor itself.

Would it seem that a very large pinion would be harder for the motor to turn (teeth further from rotational center), therefore making startup less smooth?

The smallest pinion (teeth closer to shaft center) would then be the easiest pinion to turn, resulting in smoother low end?

So, in a perfect world, try to run the smallest pinion (that's reasonable for good mesh) and match the spur to get the desired ratio.

That being said, I should keep the 12t pinion (not go up to 13 or 14) and go with the 64t spur that 89redranger found, or put in my 62t HR spur........seems logical......????

[winnerone23]

I have found recovery to just simply bein difficult with the mini class.. body or bodiless, wheel speed or not.. not that wheel speed doesn't or wouldn't help.. it just seems to be the way it is.
I know with mine, it just seems more that the servo gets in the way of recovery. I have to get my wheels turned sharp and the rig laying over on the side if the roof, hoping to give it a blast of throttle for it to recover with the most success.

[BliB]

With 3S and a 9t pinion you will have way more wheel speed and a little more low end controll!

Are you running all knuckle wheight?

I have no experience at all with these small rigs and the experience i have with the 2.2 pro rig is that wheelwheights really help recovery, when i went from wheel wheights to knuckle wheights my recover 90% to 10% sucsess

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by BliB

With 3S and a 9t pinion you will have way more wheel speed and a little more low end controll!

That's what I've been thinking. Drivetrain may not like it, though.

Originally Posted by BliB

Are you running all knuckle wheight?

Yes. I've tried to keep the wheels as light as possible to ease drivetrain stress.

Originally Posted by BliB

I have no experience at all with these small rigs and the experience i have with the 2.2 pro rig is that wheelwheights really help recovery, when i went from wheel wheights to knuckle wheights my recover 90% to 10% sucsess

I've been wondering this lately.

The abrupt change in inertia, starting and stopping a heavy wheel, jerks the car around. Makes sense.

Another strange idea is to have weight on only one spot of the wheel to throw it off balance. Then when you really punch the throttle, the wobbly wheels would get the car "bouncing", which could help get it moving.

On your pro rig, doing high speed burns, it may throw you around a bit and help those situations where the burn is just spinning out, and not doing anything.

The amount of weight it would take is the question, and would it be noticed or harmful when normally crawling.