RCCrawler Forums

5150bronco · 03-14-2009, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rottenbelly

Looking good. That next on my list for my build. I have always set my dig up with center for freewheel. Just works better or me.

Yes, and than when you turn the tx off it goes back to center when you turn it back on?

wonder how to change it and set it, which i think is the failsafe to 4wd or forward?

gunnar · 03-14-2009, 10:27 AM

I think the failsafes are set up when you bind the reciever? Hope your rig did good in testing!

5150bronco · 03-14-2009, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnar

I think the failsafes are set up when you bind the reciever? Hope your rig did good in testing!

lol.......

3 things crapped out........but came home and fixed everything and adjusted the dig too......going out today.

5150bronco · 03-14-2009, 10:57 AM

I am almost getting there.

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I like the idea of a clear body which enables you to see through it and see ground, etc.

samb. · 03-16-2009, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5150bronco

Samb, what happened when you ran the shocks in the same place as me?

I can look for this to see if what happened to you is the same for me?

Can you post a pic of your setup?

THANKS GUYS!

Good feedback.

Sorry for being so late on getting pics, i was trying to get my crawler done for the comp yesterday. It seemed to work well with ZERO torque twist (blue rate Jatos with 30wt oil) and my 4-link setup this way (pic 1). Front shocks were hitting the tires at full lock, so I had to move them in and they touch barley but not enough to worry about. I just wish my driving was better, oh well 15th out of 19 isn't bad for a 1st comp.

Just a temp setup on the links but it works for now till i get a new link plate.

Front

gunnar · 03-16-2009, 11:17 AM

cool on the body, also shows all your hard work under it! Remember those "visible man" models? LOL Clear body, colored guts

5150bronco · 03-16-2009, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnar

cool on the body, also shows all your hard work under it! Remember those "visible man" models? LOL Clear body, colored guts

My last comp body was clear. really like the idea and the look. Now we have visible crawler....lol.

Thanks for the pics Samb!

5150bronco · 07-17-2009, 02:14 AM

I am going to get some finished pics out here soon. had to make several changes than took a break.

5150bronco · 09-05-2009, 03:04 PM

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5150bronco · 09-05-2009, 03:05 PM

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5150bronco · 09-11-2009, 01:56 AM

Oh, and anybody that is in bay area..., this place is local and very sick lines.

indiana mudcat · 10-16-2009, 10:19 PM

are the knuckles still holding up, mine don't wanna let loose of the inner bearing or let the bearings seat enough to put the pin in a mip anymore. when a member was trying to help figure out what was up at the last comp he actually took a knife and cut the alum right out of the knuckle, i've seen wood harded than that alum.

have you broke many axle's ? i didn't break any until i clearanced my link from the batt plate uprights then started breaking them fast. seems the hitting is needed to keep cvd's from binding if you get in any bind at all when turned. i've had more issue's on the right side, i think cause the hole on that side got sloppy and lets that wheel flop a bit.

5150bronco · 10-17-2009, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

are the knuckles still holding up, mine don't wanna let loose of the inner bearing or let the bearings seat enough to put the pin in a mip anymore. when a member was trying to help figure out what was up at the last comp he actually took a knife and cut the alum right out of the knuckle, i've seen wood harded than that alum.

have you broke many axle's ? i didn't break any until i clearanced my link from the batt plate uprights then started breaking them fast. seems the hitting is needed to keep cvd's from binding if you get in any bind at all when turned. i've had more issue's on the right side, i think cause the hole on that side got sloppy and lets that wheel flop a bit.

Hey,
I dont completely understand what you are saying but have an idea. The knuckles are holding up fine. are you referring to inside of knuckle? post a pic here or two and I would be happy to help.

I have not broke any axles. How much weight is in your tires? total for 1 tire. is anything hitting on your tie rod when turning?

How bad is the "wheel flop?"

trainer · 10-17-2009, 04:42 AM

I reread through the thread but did not see it mentioned: what shocks are you using?

Mudsy · 10-17-2009, 06:53 AM

Looks to be GTR shocks with Jato springs. I got the extact same ones on my slingshot ax-10.

indiana mudcat · 10-17-2009, 12:39 PM

ya the inside of the knuckle, when they were new the bearing would slide right out, takes alot of force now. i'm gonna take it apart this weekend and clean it up with emery paper and see if i can get the bearings to seat all the way again, as we had to file down the hex to keep it from locking up with a wheel on. i run DH's with six ss weights, i snapped new shafts before gate 3 at the last comp so i don't think the weight had enough time to stress things. nothing hits.

the slop was so bad i drilled to insert one of the 3x4.5mm bushings in the tierod end and the hole was ovaled so bad it only touched front and back. seems the threads cut straight into the tierod.

1beatjeep · 10-17-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5150bronco

Oh, and anybody that is in bay area..., this place is local and very sick lines.

where is this place

5150bronco · 10-18-2009, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudsy

Looks to be GTR shocks with Jato springs. I got the extact same ones on my slingshot ax-10.

Yes, that is right. yellow rate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

ya the inside of the knuckle, when they were new the bearing would slide right out, takes alot of force now. i'm gonna take it apart this weekend and clean it up with emery paper and see if i can get the bearings to seat all the way again, as we had to file down the hex to keep it from locking up with a wheel on. i run DH's with six ss weights, i snapped new shafts before gate 3 at the last comp so i don't think the weight had enough time to stress things. nothing hits.

the slop was so bad i drilled to insert one of the 3x4.5mm bushings in the tierod end and the hole was ovaled so bad it only touched front and back. seems the threads cut straight into the tierod.

test it without any weight and put front up on blocks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1beatjeep

where is this place

end of meridian and camden. sick azz place man. good for comps too.

5150bronco · 01-07-2010, 01:48 AM

doing some testing, I am going to try and change up my shocks to see what works best.

I am going to keep the same spring rate (yellow).

I am going to try internal springs and some low weight oil.

5150bronco · 03-25-2010, 01:29 AM

so, I changed the shocks.

I drilled 2 2mil holes in each piston on opposite sides of the small holes and put 30 wt oil.

had to tighten up springs, but the response time is much much better. I could maybe go for 45 wt to see, but it is pretty good now that tighten/loosening the springs helps dial in suspension.

little harder to predict if crawler will flip, but all and all good change.

03-14-2009, 10:57 AM	#104
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	My nascar inspired COMP body......... I am almost getting there. I like the idea of a clear body which enables you to see through it and see ground, etc. Last edited by 5150bronco; 03-15-2009 at 01:50 AM.

03-14-2009, 10:27 AM	#102
gunnar Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA. Posts: 2,242	I think the failsafes are set up when you bind the reciever? Hope your rig did good in testing!

03-16-2009, 11:17 AM	#106
gunnar Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA. Posts: 2,242	cool on the body, also shows all your hard work under it! Remember those "visible man" models? LOL Clear body, colored guts

07-17-2009, 02:14 AM	#108
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	I am going to get some finished pics out here soon. had to make several changes than took a break.

09-05-2009, 03:04 PM	#109
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697

09-05-2009, 03:05 PM	#110
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697

09-11-2009, 01:56 AM	#111
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	Oh, and anybody that is in bay area..., this place is local and very sick lines.

10-16-2009, 10:19 PM	#112
indiana mudcat RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: reelsville Posts: 1,871	are the knuckles still holding up, mine don't wanna let loose of the inner bearing or let the bearings seat enough to put the pin in a mip anymore. when a member was trying to help figure out what was up at the last comp he actually took a knife and cut the alum right out of the knuckle, i've seen wood harded than that alum. have you broke many axle's ? i didn't break any until i clearanced my link from the batt plate uprights then started breaking them fast. seems the hitting is needed to keep cvd's from binding if you get in any bind at all when turned. i've had more issue's on the right side, i think cause the hole on that side got sloppy and lets that wheel flop a bit.

10-17-2009, 04:42 AM	#114
trainer Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Belgium Posts: 166	I reread through the thread but did not see it mentioned: what shocks are you using?

10-17-2009, 06:53 AM	#115
Mudsy Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Viroqua Posts: 940	Looks to be GTR shocks with Jato springs. I got the extact same ones on my slingshot ax-10.

10-17-2009, 12:39 PM	#116
indiana mudcat RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: reelsville Posts: 1,871	ya the inside of the knuckle, when they were new the bearing would slide right out, takes alot of force now. i'm gonna take it apart this weekend and clean it up with emery paper and see if i can get the bearings to seat all the way again, as we had to file down the hex to keep it from locking up with a wheel on. i run DH's with six ss weights, i snapped new shafts before gate 3 at the last comp so i don't think the weight had enough time to stress things. nothing hits. the slop was so bad i drilled to insert one of the 3x4.5mm bushings in the tierod end and the hole was ovaled so bad it only touched front and back. seems the threads cut straight into the tierod.

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01-07-2010, 01:48 AM	#119
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	doing some testing, I am going to try and change up my shocks to see what works best. I am going to keep the same spring rate (yellow). I am going to try internal springs and some low weight oil.

03-25-2010, 01:29 AM	#120
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	so, I changed the shocks. I drilled 2 2mil holes in each piston on opposite sides of the small holes and put 30 wt oil. had to tighten up springs, but the response time is much much better. I could maybe go for 45 wt to see, but it is pretty good now that tighten/loosening the springs helps dial in suspension. little harder to predict if crawler will flip, but all and all good change.

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