11-30-2018, 04:11 PM | #241 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Groningen, The Netherlands
Posts: 528
| Re: Jato's SMT10
Better late than never, but let me answer some of those questions. Order of upgrading: 1. All steel gears in gearbox 2. All steel gears in gearbox 3. HPI diffs in the front. No need to open up the rear imho. 4. Steel drive shafts between gearbox and axles. And, above all : be careful wilth larger wheels. The stock AR60’s and their innards aren’t exactly the most durable on the market, and You’ll start breaking part after part after part, with anything more than mild putt-putting around with f.i. clod-sized wheels. For a motor, anything in the 3500+kv will do fine on 2s. If You insist on 3s ( and don’t mind the truck spitting parts every now&then) go for 2200kv to 3000kv max. |
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12-28-2018, 09:35 AM | #242 | |
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: Jato's SMT10 Quote:
Locked diff in the rear is a must for brushless bashing in my experience. I did put HPI spider gears in the front, open diff. But I honestly don't think those gears are any better than Axial's. Just ensure the open diff is shimmed properly. You need metal transmission gears as well. I blew the stock, plastic idler gear after one run on the stock motor! I think plastic driveshafts are fine. If you break them then upgrade to Traxxas plastic shafts. I don't see the need for metal driveshafts. If you get into big tires and big jumping the AR60 axles can break. In that case I suggest aluminum Beef Tubes for strength without much additional weight. | |
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