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Old 11-30-2018, 04:11 PM   #241
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Default Re: Jato's SMT10

Better late than never, but let me answer some of those questions.

Order of upgrading:

1. All steel gears in gearbox
2. All steel gears in gearbox
3. HPI diffs in the front. No need to open up the rear imho.
4. Steel drive shafts between gearbox and axles.

And, above all : be careful wilth larger wheels. The stock AR60’s and their innards aren’t exactly the most durable on the market, and You’ll start breaking part after part after part, with anything more than mild putt-putting around with f.i. clod-sized wheels.

For a motor, anything in the 3500+kv will do fine on 2s. If You insist on 3s ( and don’t mind the truck spitting parts every now&then) go for 2200kv to 3000kv max.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:35 AM   #242
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Default Re: Jato's SMT10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongol Pete View Post
Hi Jato,

The AR60s I bought for my SMT10 build have F/R locked diffs. The biggest factor for me is durability for brushless bashing. So, would you recommend I open both diffs or front only, or leave em locked? Also, which parts would you recommend to open a diff? HPI gears? Axial HD spool?

Thanks,
MP
Sorry, I missed this. I agree with most of what Jay-Em is saying.

Locked diff in the rear is a must for brushless bashing in my experience. I did put HPI spider gears in the front, open diff. But I honestly don't think those gears are any better than Axial's. Just ensure the open diff is shimmed properly.

You need metal transmission gears as well. I blew the stock, plastic idler gear after one run on the stock motor!

I think plastic driveshafts are fine. If you break them then upgrade to Traxxas plastic shafts. I don't see the need for metal driveshafts.

If you get into big tires and big jumping the AR60 axles can break. In that case I suggest aluminum Beef Tubes for strength without much additional weight.
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